OK I looked at some chainsaw forums but it was all guys in checked shirts with big beards talking about 42″ Stihls so got scared and came on here….

My 2yr old Aldi chainsaw has behaved perfectly with light but regular use.

Recently it cuts fine when it’s just been started from cold but by the time you’re nearing the end of the first tank of fuel it begins to cut slower and starts burning the wood – smoke comes out from the cut and the cut face of the logs exhibit burn marks.

Next time it’s used it does the same, fine at the start then same problem.

Chain seems to be at the correct tension. Mix is OK. Plenty of chain lube in the reservoir though it’s not specific bar oil.

Advice?

chain needs sharpening?

(and Im very much not an expert)

probably cobblers but is the motor slowing – ie fuel starvation – blocked filters (fuel or air) – when you refuel it may be allowing air in ???

Sounds like the oil feed to the chain is blocked.

Mine gets blocked by sawdust – then exactly what you describe happens.

blunt chain, oiler blocked, chain oil a bit thick in this cold?
Does it use most of the chain oil up over the course of using a tank of fuel up?

Chain is more than likely blunt they can be sharpened or just get a new one they arent expensive and still have the old one sharpened as a spare. Does it use the chain lube if not it could indicate a blockage causing the chain to overheat and is now blunt. Have you been cutting close to the ground and possibly caught the teeth on a wall or in the ground this could cause the chain to blunt. Depending on type of wood you are cutting try not to have it on full throttle too fast through hard wood can cause blunting too.

Blunt chain. They are pretty cheap, so get a new one, and save the old one to be re-sharpened.
Alan.

Blimey – a lot of chainsaw people in here!

It doesn’t seem to use as much chain oil as it did so a blockage sounds likely.

Thanks gentlemen. I’ll have a look in the morning. 🙂

Just worth checking the fuel cap breather if it has one and the chain side of things proves ok.
Shagged chain to me tho

Just sharpen your chain!
you don’t need a new one if it hasn’t been sharpened before, just make sure all the teeth are at the same angle and length and it’ll cut fine.
swap the blade over as well ( you should flip it each time you sharpen the saw). All you need is the correct wee round file and a guide if your new to it.

Check chain oil. My Stihl uses a tank of oil per tank of fuel. If the chain doesnt get lubed it heats up and expands. Gets longer – slacker -very dangerous. Chain tension should be so tight you cant pull it away from the bar.

As above sharpen the chain. Clean air & fuel filter. Make sure the oil feed to the chain is clear of sawdust.

When the fuel tank on mine is nearly empty it runs lean and revs like hell.

I might be wrong, no professional training, but I always cut on full power, whatever wood it it, I think its more likely to catch/kick on part revs

I wouldn’t use anything other than chain oil to lube the chain.

Sharpen your chain. You can tell if it’s ok by the nice chippings coming off when cutting. Check oil feed by blipping the throttle and pointing the bar nose at a clean surface. Oil droplets should just be visible.

Seems like a combination of things, blunt chain, (buy good quality Oregon or similar) chain bar roller (sprocket type roller at the end of the bar) is not running as free as it should so when it heats up it is expanding and getting tighter heating everthing up, chain bar, chain. Before use slacken off chain and check roller is running nice and free if it seems sticky and not spinning freely WD40 does the trick. Chain bars are relativley cheap for my saw (Husqvarna) not sure about your model though.
O and good quality chain oil Sthil or similar, not the shite you get from B&Q.

As above,blunt chain.Just look at the cut,nice woodchips = sharp, and sawdust = blunt.

Chain tension should be so tight you cant pull it away from the bar.

thats too tight and you’ll risk warping or damaging your bar.

Sounds like a blunt saw and maybe your pinching it a little when you’re cutting? Dont forget to look after your bar too – take it off and file any burrs off the top and sides.

you should have got some files, give it a sharpen and again, dont forget to file the dogs down. ( the little bits infront of the cutting edge ) if they’re too small/big they can affect the cutting.

if all the above is fine, maybe its as suggested and something is blocked somewheres?

Use proper sawchain oil, it’s probably cheaper than engine or cycle oil. you can then also use the sawchain oil on your bike.

wash you filters out (air and fuel) You can test if they’re causing a problem by cleaning up the saw and running it in a clean, un-dusty place briefly with them removed, if power suddenly comes back you’ve found it. also check the plug; my Stihl has no trouble at all with plugs but others can. Learn to sharpen the chain and do so regularly.

Chain tension should be so tight you cant pull it away from the bar.
thats too tight and you’ll risk warping or damaging your bar.

I think he means so you can’t lift the tangs out of the bar groove.

i was once riding some single track in the woods at night and came across a chainsaw on the trail!! as much as i was curious i did not stop to investigate…

ALWAYS cut at full revs..it is much safer..

Using a blunt chainsaw risks jamming , or you push harder it stalls and shoots up in your face,

starts a new thread , chainsaw injuries.

Also, if you are going to sharpen it make sure you file down the rakers on the chain also, unsafe to use a saw with rakers at the wrong depth…

Lots of good chainsaw and wood stuff here

Thanks for all the info people.

Followed everything:

Sharpened chain, corrected tension, cleaned/lubed bar/roller, cleaned oil tube, put in proper bar oil.

Works a treat! 🙂

(suspect the motor oil was too viscous in the cold weather to lube the bar)

Once again amazed at the depth of knowledge accessible on a Mountain Bike Forum 😮

Damn, too late, I could’ve waffled for ages here.

If you can get hold of a Lantra / NPTC CS30/31 coursebook that should tell you much of the above with a little more background and diagrams. The course would be ideal, but lets be realistic for domestic purposes.

Me to but I got here late as well :O)

Timber – are you my brother?

😀

Never mind Timber/Timbur, next time I need to post a chainsaw related question I’ll give you advance warning then you guys can get in first!

😆