Dropping your chain? Funny Noises like mechs make? Does this type of stuff happen?

I run a frame with horizontal dropouts and obviously don't suffer with any of the above but am looking at possibly buying a frame with vertical drop outs and single speeding it. Am I going to drop the chain when pedalling hard off road with this type set up? Or is it pretty smooth when done properly?

You'll need some means of tensioning the chain, nowt else I don't think.

Aye, a tensioner seems likely. I also run a half link to further counteract dropping the chain. Any idea if that's ok with a tensioner?

I doubt it'd make any difference, they're normally just a roller aren't they?

Guess so!

I used to drop my chain a bit when using a tensioner. Push up is better than push down, new-ish chains better than worn to buggery, and chainrings without ramps & teeth also help.

I have no problems, on one doofer and a half link, groove armada cog, deore ramped chain ring. I've dropped the chain on the odd occasion, but rarely and certainly no more than on my geared bikes, probably less in fact.

Yeah – just a tensioner (push up for preference) and perhaps a half-link. You never know, you might luck out and get a perfectly tensioned chain without all that, but its unlikely… Anyway – I have never dropped the chain on my setup, though its getting increasingly creacky cos its worn out…

We were having a chat on Cannock Chase last night about this. My point was that top frame designer, Brant, says that the 2 most important dimensions on a frame are a) BB to stem and b) chainstay length, BB to rear axle. Either or both of those is compromised if you use an EBB or sliding dropouts.

I've used a chain tensioner on vertical dropouts for the 8 years I've been singlespeeding and I've never had a problem with it. (DMR tension seeker – push-up).

And when I go to the Lakes or the Peak, it takes me about an hour to make it geared again.

And never think about a SS specific wheel. Freehub plus spacers every time.

Why does a half link stop the chain dropping? Having the right tension is the main thing. SS chains stretch at an alarming rate so magic ratios work for about 2 weeks.

I think i struck it lucky, I used to run a singulator until i broke the spring one day. So an excuse to change all the drive bits, – Kool chain , surly 32t chain ring and 16t rear. I managed to find that magic length of chain and havent looked back since. No need for a tensioner. Its super smooth and almost silent on my Caldera. It looks very clean to. Like my bmx. Simple!

Just remember to do your qr up properly . Ive pulled my wheel out once because i did'nt tighten it enough.

Gearsmakebabyjesuscry

Half links work because they get the chain tighter, still use a tensioner though. On my old giant atx 850 frame I was a gnat's tadger from taking one more whole link out the chain. With a push down tensioner it just wouldn't work, the chain creeps up and over the teeth under any load. Put a half link in and it runs fine for 6 to 8000 miles. And my chain still hadn't stretched enough to take the other half a link out! (cheap chain – 5 quid sram 3/32 8 speed one)

Wow, I'm obviously not riding hard enough…

I singlespeeded my Duster using the existing middle deore ring, an Sram singlespeed chain and a surly sprocket. To tension it I used my existing Lx medium cage mech, with a washer either side of the jockey wheels to allow the chain to run through without the joining snap link snagging. I routed the chain the usual way, between the cages and over both jockey wheels. i needed to leave 2" of cable in the mech to adjust the position, which seems to work fine.

I got sick of aftermarket tensioners after they repeatedly failed me or broke (this was when i was racing downhill though). I keep meaning to fit a half link, if only to pull the derailleur more taught.

My point was that top frame designer, Brant, says that the 2 most important dimensions on a frame are a) BB to stem and b) chainstay length, BB to rear axle. Either or both of those is compromised if you use an EBB or sliding dropouts.

I said that?

No beef with using a Singulator type device. I did for 8 years or so with out any real issues. The good thing is easy wheel installation and easy brake set up. The best bit is the sheer choice of frames it opens up to you. Cheap, easy, versatile.

I recall you posting something similar, which stuck in my mind as being eminently sensible, on this forum about 5 years ago Brant.

It may have been in response to somebody wittering on about "KOPS".