Currently building a bike and want to run it with a 1×10 drivetrain. 32t front and 36-11 rear. A little stuck with chainring choice, do you need a special thickness of chainring for the narrower 10speed chain or will a straight cut 9speed ring work? Want to do it properly so not wanting to use a ramped chainring out of a set.
Any advice much appreciated!

im running a ramped xt 32t on my 1×10 with no issues(wippermann connex chain). so im guessing you would be fine with a renthal or similar ring. e13 claim to be fine for 10sp and hope are joining the party soon.

i’m using a 36 tooth e-13 ring 1×10 and it runs perfectly if thats any help

cheers for the replies tang and calum.
are the e-13 rings mentioned above just a non ramped 9spd ring? got any model name or part number etc so i can check them out? cheers

e13 g ring is what you need. Just got a red 32t one for a 1×9. It looks great and 32grams only.

The renthal one looks nice but was £2 more expensive (times of austerity 😉 ), and wasn’t red.

Any middle ring will do. The ramps and pins on chainrings only relate to improving the shifting between rings, which obviously you’re not going to be doing.

I just put a Renthal on mine 1×10. It’s worth spending a bit extra to get something that’s really hardwearing as obviously you’ll be using it a lot more than normal.

Tang – have you ever had any issues with your connex wipperman chains? I’ve had two now that have broken second or third ride out.

geetee, no issues here. ridden through the winter, its hilly here so im out the saddle a lot and ive got a bit of tension going on in the set up. are they going on the connex link?
this is the e13 you want
http://www.e13components.com/product_guiderings.html
renthal are tasty

next question then is what to look for in a 10speed chain? been window shopping tonight so let me know what you think.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=33382
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=53860
Cheers

Really tempted to go 1×10, but cant help thinking this is a load of guff:-

PowerLock: SRAM chain engineers developed PowerLock as a tool free, sure and consistent way to connect our 10 speed chains. While PL does not require special tools for install, the especially tight tolerances of 10 Speed drive trains mandated that each PowerLock is good for a one-time application only.

Chucking £3.50 away everytime I want to split the chain…

For now I’ll stick with 9spd & put up with the lack of an extra 0.0625 of ratio.
(34/32…36/32)

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=23963

Yeah that whole ‘one time only’ thing about power links is daft. It defeats the entire point of having them. Also, the SRAM connectors are directional and if you don’t get it the right way around, you’ve basically shot your load with that power link and will need to remove it using a link extractor.

Tang, no they aren’t going at the connecting link (although I’ve kept hold of the connecting link from the Wipperman as they aren’t use once items).

Weirdly my latest chain snapped in such a way that I was left with two middle links rather than one middle and one outer, which you would have expected if one pin had gone. So the only conclusion I can draw is that I snapped two pins in the same link. It made it easier to connect though. Both the chains I had problems with were the stainless steel ones, so I guess there’s something about those that makes them weaker? Can’t think what though.

One other point to mention is that in an emergency, you can use a 9-speed powerlink to join a 10-speed chain. It works about 85% as well, which if you’re 20 miles from the car on the edge of the Anza Borego Desert in middle of no where San Diego, is a real life saver.

Agreed on Powerlock. Looks like a step backwards to me.
Have to live with it on my road bike (SRAM 10sp), but going to stick with 9sp on the MTB for the foreseeable.

Hmmmmm…this has got me thinking.
How do you set the ‘correct’ chain lenght?
Do you use a chain tensioner divice?
Any piccies?

Oh…is this your off road or commuter bike?

Really like the idea of less parts, less weight and less things to go wrong.

WTF can’t believe the Sram 10sp PL is a one shot wonder!

why i went wippermann, 10s8 nickel plated . kmc do one also.

It’s going to be used on a lightweight trail bike for taking groups out as a TCL. Trek Fuel Ex7 bought off here. I figure its a little lighter, a lot simpler and fewer things to go wrong, plus it lets me dabble in unfamiliar territory as it will be my 1st 10spd.
Chain tension will be off the rear mech as per usual with a lightweight chainguide up front to keep it in check on the single ring. no piccies yet as i only have the frame, stem, bars and brakes at the minute, just pricing up wheels and drivetrain………and it ain’t cheap! 🙁
As for correct chain length i always start with the traditional ‘2 biggest rings’ to gauge it then remove links if and where possible to keep as short as i can without hindering shifting. Shorter = less chain slap 😀

Cheers for all the info folks, mega helpful!

i’m using a Surly stainless 9 spd ring on the front on my 1×10 456 ti with a sram pc971 chain with no noticable difference,(compared to the previous 10 spd shimano chain) in changing or intital setup + its cheaper.