Already wasted one length of Ogee skirting……..

Anyone have tips on fitting and mitreing skirting boards?

First off Im trying to match up to old oak Ogee section boards. B and Q only had Ogee of suffcient height in pine and the dimensions are slightly different, being slightly thinner by about 3mm and sligthly higher by 5mm.Im guessing the old stuff was imperial the new it`s metric equivalent.

The board wont lay flat, partly due to slight warping in the board and maybe because the newly plastered wall isnt flat or perhaps a combination of the two.

The new plaster is a little thicker than the old which pushes the board out and so it`s proving hard to get the mitre cut right.

And the last problem is that the skirting needs to slot in behind the rad pipes and butt up against a cupboard and slot in to the existing mitres skirting the other,so theres not much tolerance.

It looks like it would be easier to fit it in 2 pieces
and hiding the joint behind the rad pipe………..

Thoughts?

This…

It looks like it would be easier to fit it in 2 pieces
and hiding the joint behind the rad pipe………..

I`m guessing join the 2 pieces with a mitre?

Think I`m going to need to borrow a bench saw to trim 5mm off the bottom.

Beginning to think it might be easier to redo the skirting to the whole room rather than make new fit old!

it is impossible to cut a straight mitre on warped skirting board,take it back and get some flat stuff. as for the rest it would take pages to describe in full and years of faffing it up to learn to do it well.
1) your new plaster probably has what we call in the trade a bell bottom ,put a small straight edge against the wall and see how much the plaster kicks out at floor level.Hack of the worst not any higher than about 2/3 of skirting height.
2) where mitres join pack the back of the thinner board so it comes flush at the front.
3) onlt straight joints and external corners are mitres internal corners use a scribe,
4) yes mitre behind pipe if you cant get a full length in,
and if thats no use find a good joiner 🙂

I got a good fit with cutting slightly larger and trimming with a belt sander. Also the ogee profile I have in one room is different from the other so it may pay to shop around for your skirting.

lots of caulk and filler should do the trick, then when its finished just try not to look at it and all will be fine 🙂

If the profiles not quite right, rout it right. Or don’t worry, ‘cos only you’ll know 🙂

Some good tips, whilst it is temtping to follow romprintas advice Ill try Roblane65s tips first and revert to that if and when I lose patience! 🙂

My local builders yard does Imperial skirting board, so it matches existing stuff. Have a hunt around.

caulks ok but remember it will shrink, if you make a real hash use 2 pack filler and the belt sander then make a good job of the prep for painting. on internal and external corners it’ll not show if the profiles slightly different,on externals just sand away the bits that don’t quite match. 😉

For internal corners I don’t bother cutting mitres but butt the end against the back of the adjoining board, draw round the profile and cut to shape with a coping saw. This may or may not help as I’ve not explained it very well..

That’s what’s called a scribe .

Scribing is the proper way to do it because it allows for the corner not being square, which it won’t be but as one board is already fitted I don’t see how that will work. Cut the mitre to join behind the pipes at 60 deg not 45. And most importantly remember that no one but you is going to be on their hands and knees and checking it from 6 inches away. 🙂