Any help would be appreciated.

I’m going tonight to have a look at a second hand car with a view to buying it. This is a private deal, and I have never done this before.

What should I be looking out for, and are there any checks worth paying for before shelling out (AA or equivalent)?

Thanks

A million and one things to be wary of, but hopefully the following link will help give you a few basic pointers…

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/CARS/buying/buy_a_used_car.jsp

How long have you got?!

Make sure it is cold when you view it, lots of probs can be hidden by the owner warming it up before your arrival. Check in the coolant for oil/mayo, check in the oil filler cap for mayo. Looks for large oil leaks, anything obviously modified.
Fire it up, listen for knocks, check the oil pressure light goes out rapidly. If its a high miler you might want to make sure its warm then take the oil filler cap off and feel the breeze coming out at idle, then rev it to 2-3K and the breeze should go away or reverse, it not doing suggests either blocked breathers or excessive ring wear.

Main points – take it for a test drive, make sure it feels right – no major vibrations, no knocks over bumps (try to get uneven bumps as anti-roll-bars knock when wheels move differentially, not together). Accel and decel fairly harshly in 2nd, gear stick shouldnt wang about and nothing should knock. IF its got front wheel drive, take it to a car park and do a full lock slow acceleration in both directions to check for knocking. Check your discs and tyres, check for rust on the sills (below the door). Check all electronics work in the car, things like window winder mechanisms are expensive. Check for exhaust blowing. Check for wheel bearing play – grab each wheel, try to make it turn like its a front wheel, as fast as possible, then grab the top and push-pull as fast and firmly as possible (as if trying to wake someone up in an emergency). Any knocking is shot bearings or steering components. Accel harshly in 5th to test clutch, and make sure biting point isnt right at the top of the travel.

Best option is to take someone with you who knows if at all possible. I’d say do an HPI just for the sake of outstanding finance but not much else is of any use – I’ve bought a car that failed HPI on milage simply because I knew the car had done more but accepted the state it was in and knocked the guy down based on it.

Theres a lot more, but its only common sense stuff – receipts, time/date of sale, presumed no extra faults that havent been disclosed etc

Google “buying used cars”, there’s hundreds of websites out there all offering advice/tips etc on what to look for. Autotrader has a buying/selling section on it too.

I looked through hundreds of web pages in the course of buying my last car, it took ages. 🙁 If you’re going tonight, that doesn’t leave you much time! If in doubt, walk away, the motto of “caveat emptor” has never been truer than in the used car market…

I have no idea what you know about cars, but in my limited experience i would say;

AA/RAC inspections worth it if you dont know your way round a car to check it out mechanically.

The list is endless of what to look for when buying a car; however things like paperwork/service documents to show the cars been looked after and also a way for you to verify the mileage (within reason). Find out when next service is due – the person may be selling just before a major (expensive) service is needed. Same goes for cambelt replacement, if necessary.

Hpi check worth it was well – to see if the vehicle has been written off at any point, any outstanding finance on it and i think they can also provide mileage checks.

Gut feeling plays a part as well – if something doesnt feel right – the car, the person selling doesnt seem genuine – then walk away.

HTH.

If you’re really, really going to buy run a check on it, let the seller know the sale depends on the check (accident, hp etc). If you haven’t got a mate who knows cars you’re at a disdvantage (quite a big one I’d say and to be honest I’d say CAUTION, get a mate…..)
make sure you compare his price to a similar example from a dealer (and you can haggle a lot at dealers)

Check items like tax, mot, tyres, note them etc (ie I’ve seen these removed/changed at point of pickup).

Check previous MOTs (and their mileages), service history – ditto mileage stamps. Compare engine no, chassis no match with V5, window etchings if any. If the address/person on V5 aren’t where you are then why ???
Take some clear and good photos of the seller (yes I do mean it)

Lift the carpets and check floor rubber – ie on a 20,000 mile car should be very little wear, ditto drivers seat, steering wheel edges, pedal rubbers etc etc.

Test Drive – once warm, use hard in all gears, braking test(mirror please) – hands off – *road camber can affect but should brake and drive in a straight line.

Google on the reg, person etc etc

Given your inexperience I’d suggest caution. This list could go on a lot longer,