Got some avid elixirs a few weeks ago

They seemed to be aligned ok up until today. I had the back wheel off and can’t seem to get them aligned properly now

I’ve always used the easy (and probably incorrect) technique of leaving the caliper loose, turning the wheel, slowly pulling the brake and the tightening up the caliper

Is there a better way of doing this?

Never had any luck using that method, I’ve settled on nipping the bolts lightly enough to take the play out, aligning it whilst sighting through the end of the caliper, and nipping one bolt.Guaranteed it’ll have moved, so back off a tad and try again, adjusting one end at a time until you’ve got it.It’s a bit of a time consuming faff, but you can actually get perfect alignment this way, something i’ve never acheived using using all the variations associated with the “pull lever and tighten bolts” method.

I’ve never had any luck doing it that way and now do it like coatesy.

I tend to pull the lever a.d take the play out of the bolts for an approximate set, then sight down the caliper to fine tune.

loosen bolts, wiggle brake to free up washers, grab brake, hold brake on, do up bolts. works first time every time.

meh, what do I know, I’m a bike mechanic and I have read the instructions. Still, what works for you works for you.

The thing with instructions is that they have to consider ease for the less competent rather than just giving the best method. I bleed hope brakes from the bottom up with a syringe so a can suck out air. It’s not the way the instructions say to do it.

By the way, there’s at least two other bike mechanics on this thread already.

Ever tried sliding two feeler guage strips one each side of the rotor to centre it between the calipers? Have resorted to that for a set of formula RX1’s that are a buggar to sight down. Just loosen off the bolts, slide in then gently crimp up bolts. A quick lever squeeze will ensure it stays central if it tilts at all (does require that both pistons move freely though … so I found out)

I’m a bike mechanic.

Do I get a prize?

anyone ever had an issue where they can’t slide the calliper far enough inboard? I’ve resorted to shimming the adaptor, in an I.S. fashion to move it in more (yes, both pistons moving ok)

ir_bandito – I had this problem on my old monsters – so used a small 2.5mm adapter plate between the rotor and hub.

CRC sell them.

Basspine – well thats not the best way. that relies on both pistons moving at the same rate and the pistons being centralised. It will work most of the time however.

teh best way is the hope method – line up the caliper so it is centralthen set the pistons centrally.

http://blip.tv/play/gpkd4JwkAA
http://blip.tv/play/gpkd4OoGAA

problem is, its on my Rohloff hub. I tried t shim the rotor out, but the bolt arrangement means I need a relativly small OD shim to fit on it.
Shimming the adaptor too far inboard caused it to clash on the bolts too, even after filing a corner off.
Guess I’ll have to put up with it.

I find that the Avid method of having the caliper slightly loose, sqeezing the lever gently and tightening the bolts a tiny bit at a time alternating from one to the other……..sometimes works.

The problem can be that the pistons are not moving equally so you have to press the caliper hard onto the disc to restrict the free-er piston’s movement as you tighten the bolts a bit at a time.