Viewing 23 posts - 1 through 23 (of 23 total)
  • 40 or 42t cassette cog & lock rings
  • steve_b77
    Free Member

    If say for example you were to fit a 42t cassette cog with a 11-36t cassette and instead of taking out the 17t you left off the 11t and used one of these http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/mobile/shimano-lockring-for-12t-and-13t-cassette-top-sprocket-379mm-diameter-silver-prod5189/ 12/13t shimano lock rings, what else would you need to make the cassette work properly?

    mcnultycop
    Full Member

    You might as well just get a smaller chainring.

    boriselbrus
    Free Member

    What’s the point? You are adding 10% (ish) on to the bottom end of the cassette and taking 10% off the top end. Why not just use a 10% smaller chainring?

    Blazin-saddles
    Free Member

    But why would you do this? Surely the same result would be had by putting on a smaller chainring?

    Blazin-saddles
    Free Member

    Damn it, beaten twice!

    davewalsh
    Free Member

    I think you’re missing the point of a wider range cassette, as 13-40 would give you a very similar range to a standard 11-36 if used with a smaller chainring.

    davewalsh
    Free Member

    beaten 3 times 🙁

    steve_b77
    Free Member

    Just thinking that’s all, but hypothetically thinking it’s a possible combination?

    davewalsh
    Free Member

    It’s possible, as is lighting a fire with 3 £20 notes….

    steve_b77
    Free Member

    What’s with all the ‘you’re better doing this’ answers, it’s a genuine question, how hard is it to give a genuine answer other than you should be doing this

    winch
    Free Member

    Ha this is STW!

    Northwind
    Full Member

    It doesn’t make any sense. Also I don’t think there’s any reason to change lockring, I used an 11T one no probs on a 12T cassette.

    steve_b77
    Free Member

    True, I was expecting too much to get a sensible answer to a simple question. Should’ve just posted all the above myself in the OP to save them the bother

    davewalsh
    Free Member

    Let me clarify my post above, Yes it’s possible, however you may need to change the chain if it’s been sized to suit a 36t cassette. (Is that a sensible enough answer?) However it makes no financial sense whatsoever! The cost of a range extender is double the cost of a smaller chainring, plus the cost of a chain, plus the doobry above. Then when the cassette & extender are worn out you have to replace both parts, again increasing the cost of ownership.

    chickenman
    Full Member

    True, I was expecting too much to get a sensible answer to a simple question

    . Unfortunately there is not a sensible answer to a question that isn’t in itself sensible.
    There are about two questions a week on here from people who have bought range extenders with the unintended aim of obtaining a smaller range of gears.

    davosaurusrex
    Full Member

    I struggle with long sentences. Just get a smaller chainring.

    davosaurusrex
    Full Member

    Do one mods, that was hilarious! IGMC.

    boriselbrus
    Free Member

    OK then I’ll answer the original question.

    You will need one of those things from SJS, you will probably need a new chain and if your existing chain is worn then your cassette may well be worn as well so you might need a new cassette. If your existing rear mech isn’t a long cage one then you’ll need one of those as well.

    So the disadvantages of what you are suggesting:

    Lots of money
    More weight
    Worse shifting
    More chin slap (as you have to have a longer chain)

    Advantages, compared with just getting a smaller chainring):

    Ermmm, none.

    You see, you get get grumpy about typical STW not answering the question etc, but if I’d just listed the bits you might need to make it work properly, you’d probably have come back with “Why didn’t you just tell me to get a smaller chainring, you are all idiots”.

    Anyway, I’ve now answered your question and told you why you shouldn’t do it.

    ultimateweevil
    Free Member

    I posted a similar question around this yesterday as I’m looking to change from a 34t upfront as it’s too big for climbing with the 11-36 cassette I have, so would I be better going 30t upfront or going 32t and getting an extender to 42t for climbing? For me I’m just looking for the cheapest and easiest to set up option.

    Sorry for the hijack OP 🙂

    Adam@BikeWorks
    Free Member

    You’d need a proper 12T end sprocket aswell rather than one that sits second in line, as that one wont have the knurled surface for the lockring to tighten against.

    chickenman
    Full Member

    posted a similar question around this yesterday as I’m looking to change from a 34t upfront as it’s too big for climbing with the 11-36 cassette

    . Just get a 30t ring, fine unless you do lots of riding down fireroads!

    simondbarnes
    Full Member

    Yes, it’s possible but only really worth it if you’re already using the smallest possible chainring that your chainset will take.

    ultimateweevil
    Free Member

    Yes I just read my original thread (forgot to check it) and after doing some looking earlier on one of those ratio websites I’m def going 30t upfront.

    It also doesn’t help that if I want to go the 40/42t option I’d need to hacksaw my cassette since it’s an slx in order to remove the 17t cog.

Viewing 23 posts - 1 through 23 (of 23 total)

The topic ‘40 or 42t cassette cog & lock rings’ is closed to new replies.