3×9 and 3×10 give you effectively the same spread of gears, just with 3×10 they’re slightly closer together due to smaller gaps in the chainring sizes. Effectively you get about 14/15 discrete ratios, similar to a Rohloff, but with lots of duplicate ratios within the setup.
2×10 gives you almost the same range as a 3×9/3×10 (depending on chainring sizes of course), but assuming a common 26/38 setup, compared to a 3×10 you are losing a very very tiny bit off the bottom end (not even a ratio, more like half a ratio), and you’re losing about a ratio and a half off the top. So think of it as having effectively about 12/13 discrete ratios. In other words, if you never ever use your largest chainring with the smallest sprocket on the back, 2×10 makes sense for most people.
1×10 with an 11-36 cassette gives you more than enough ratios for most people. You lose a couple of ratios off the bottom end over a 3×10 setup, and a couple of ratios off the top end (depending on chainring size), but for many people like me, who never use the smallest three sprockets in a 3×10 setup ever and don’t mind not having a granny ring, it makes a lot of sense. It gets rid of a whole lot of crap… You lose the horrid device that is the front mech, a shifter, some chain links, you can fit a nice short/medium cage rear mech etc. And you can run a chain device so you never ever drop your chain!
1×10 works… It’s not for everyone (but some people cried when Shimano stopped making 26/36/48 chainsets!), but if you’re strong enough in the leg to never need a granny ring and you don’t ever use the top 2 cogs when you’re in the big ring, go 1×10 and you won’t look back…
32T ring with an 11-36 here, tried a 36T chainring but found it a bit much. Might try a 34T over summer when the trails are drier/faster.