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Then I e-mailed the manufacturer (which is also the seller) the description and my pics. They then called me and suggested to send it in for warrenty (they will forward it to Sram). So I am excited what's gonna happen when I send the fork there next week. I will let you know once I got my fork back...
Its not quite back yet, but its on its way. Sram didnt repair anything.
I sent it in for nothing 🙁 Since I expected that Sram would maybe deny warranty work because I opened the fork, I explained everything I did with the fork in detail before sending it in and they said it falls under the warranty. Even called the Sram Service Center, which said that my problem may not actually be a problem but that they are happy to take a look at it if I send it in via my shop.
Now when it got there, they told me there is a failure and my warranty is void because I opened it multiple times and apparently did something wrong?! Up to now I wasnt told what was actually wrong with the fork. They only asked me to pay 100 € for a service, which I denied. Great communication!
Just strange that the problem was there before I first opened the fork...
So I guess I will just keep using the fork and have to trust those who say that there is no problem and everything is within its tolerances...
Btw, it would be great to get some responses to this question:
Maybe some of you guys could meassure their solo air forks and tell me how far the fork comes out and how much travel the fork should have (e.g. mine comes out around 125-127mm and its a 130 fork).
Maybe there is actually nothing wrong with the fork (like even the guy at the Sram Hotline suggested). But then it would be strange for Sram to ask for 100 € for repair (which sounds more like some of the Fox-complaints I read 😉 ).
Sram didnt repair anything.I sent it in for nothing
My experience too sadly!
Warrantied my fork because of a failed charger damper and it came back five weeks later from Fishers with stick down as well. They had jammed the solo air spring full of grease - maybe 10ccs in the positive sprig!
Fishers/Sram are complete chumps - if you insist on running rock shox stuff just be prepared to pay to have it serviced and repaired by loco/tf tuned etc
Today I got the fork back. The Remote Lockout I left on the fork is missing (replacement is already on its way), but at least it seems well lubricated 😉
The dealer told me he would get Sram to write up a short description of whats wrong with the fork. Looks like Sram didn't feel to do that, so I still don't know whats wrong.
Does any one of you have any more suggestions beyond the stuff we talked about above?
In a German board where I also discussed this topic someone said that up to 5mm can be within the tolerances. It sounds a little weird to me that there is so much tolerance length-wise wheras a fork needs/has such a precission fit regarding the diameter of the parts.
Stanchion diameter to bush internal diameter is a critical dimension, if this out of control the fork won't work. Actual travel when everything is bolted together is just a minor inconvenience
Stanchion diameter to bush internal diameter is a critical dimension, if this out of control the fork won't work. Actual travel when everything is bolted together is just a minor inconvenience
I know. For me its just hard to understand how one product is constructed in such precission regarding the diameter and with so much tolerance regarding the length.
But from what you said, I conclude that you also experienced such tolerances? Which would mean that the fork would be OK frm your point of view?
My Pike sits somewhere between 3 and 5mm lower than it should, it also creaks like hell, can't say it's really bothering me tbh. Will probably strip it for a proper look at some point though.
Let's not forget that there's also a tolerance on the positioning of the travel indicator - **** knows where that's sitting 😉
My Pike sits somewhere between 3 and 5mm lower than it should, it also creaks like hell, can't say it's really bothering me tbh. Will probably strip it for a proper look at some point though.
I see. Would be interesting to know how it turns out after the strip-down (which I already did, including new seals).
Let's not forget that there's also a tolerance on the positioning of the travel indicator - **** knows where that's sitting
I also meassured with a ruler and miss around 3mm.
Back from a week in t'Alps.
Pike rct3 was horrible.
Blew a seal first day, luckily I bought spares.
Plagued by big top out clunk all the trip especially noticeable manualling through rolling terrain. A lot of creaking too.
Bled the damper before I went too.
👿
Here are my Pike forks being horrible.
Charger damper bled before I went away to the alps, wiper seals changed along with oil by a shop while I was in Tignes.
They are horrible. Riding along you can feel a pronounced clunk when you pull up.
Any ideas anyone?
😥
Not in warranty period sadly.
http://www.crconception.com/index.php?p=1_10_Preparation-Rock-shox
A coil will fix the blown air spring.
When was the last time the damper was serviced? Have you had the updated seal head installed?
Damper was bled by me, but not serviced in terms of seal/o-ring replacement I guess for a long while. I think that Loco does a damper only service so I may have to do that I think.
No updated seal head in there. What's that about then?
Tom.
How do you go about buying one of those spring kits?
For Spring kits I'm waiting until TFTuned and PUSH have their versions ready to go
There is a link on the page to an order form, unfortunately it's all in French. If you email the guy, he'll help you I'm sure. To be fair, I don't see the point of waiting for the PUSH/TF Tuned one - unless they are going to do tasty titanium ones that they custom build to your weight.
No updated seal head in there. What's that about then?
2016 Pikes and Lyriks came with an updated seal head with more overlap and a lower friction seal. It basically stops air from being sucked into the cartridge when the fork is flexing under heavy load - it makes the Charger damper a lot more reliable.
If I was going on holiday to the Alps or Whistler, I'd have both my shock and fork fully serviced by TF Tuned/loco before I went out. It saves your holiday from being ruined.
EDIT: See previous post.
hi everybody, im having doubts about my LBS diagnosis so I hope someone can help me
At one point the compression adjuster of my Pike (RC 27,5 2014)
stoped working, took it for service and the LBS mechanic told me that it was a shimstack issue, they are bendt and not working properly.
Is this the real problem? is this a common issue after 2 years? i ride once or twice a week usually.