Stick some oil in the air cart. I run 10cc of fuild (which is 5cc of Fox float fluid and 5cc of 10wt sus oil) in my air cart to get my Revelation to be less linear. Just let the air out, remove the air cap and pour the fluid in.

Its like a poor mans version of the new bottomless tokens RS now offer.

Yeah they are pretty divey when it gets steep aren’t they, I have the RCT3 and even at full compression they dive too much.

Inspired by the bottomless tokens on the Pikes I found that an old rubber Recon travel spacer I had lying around that fits snugly in the air leg top cap. This has made a little bit of difference to the last couple of inches of travel but I want to add some more in. Occured to me last night that drilled corks/plastic corks from wine bottles might work.

I like the oil idea but surely that will just fill up the negative chamber with oil, by oil passing through the gap in the stanchion wall the air passes through from +ve to -ve chambers, thus removing all negative spring? It would work on old dual air forks though.

I can measure this spacer I have, it is a good size though it is only held into the top cap by friction and the give of the rubber material it is made from. I had thought of making some scores inside the alu top cap to help it grip. I don’t know how you would make hard plastic stay put, you would need to bond it somehow.

Alternatively if you have calipers or something you could measure the inside of the cap to see what would fit. Main thing is to have a hole in the middle for the air to pass through! Pike tokens are threaded and use an 8mm allen key sized hole.

Ah yes, Solo air, sorry. I’m dual air so oil is OK. You pay for progress it seems 😉

I used a mix of oil ‘cos a nice man told me to, and he knows more than I do. Simple as that really.

Loco, so is there a proper mod you can do to make them less linear?

it’s the 2013 solo air rev’s we’re discussing.

Same here – both ’13 solo air Reba’s and Rev’s…….

Thinking of bonding an old rubber travel spacer into a spare topcap I’ve got……

Give it a go on one pair of forks to see if improves matters – then start fine tuning.

Anyone know the dimensions of pike bottomless tokens?

Yeah, aware of the difference of stanchion diameter – more interested in height so can gauge approx dimensions for 32mm version…..

Hmm. I’m perfectly happy with mine. Infact, I think it’s a substantial improvement on dive control without affecting small bump compliance over the black box rlt I had before.

You are aware of the relationship between the threshold lever and the ‘lock out lever’?

Horses for courses I guess.

I actually prefer the feel of the solo air to the dual air too.

I tend to set mine by sag rather than specified pressure (learned to ignore RS pressures years ago!), then dial in the damping to limit the diving.

YMMV

I have just fitted some 140 rct3 revs to my hardtail but have not ridden yet due to needing to service my rear wheel.
I am a bit of a biffer so have put 135 psi in. But not checked the sag yet.

What would the correct amount be, I normally aim for a little over 20%.

There’s a load more to suspension performance than spring weight and damper settings, the bike’s angles have a massive affect on how some forks feel.

For example, I have some Revelation Team with blackbox dual flow damping. They were on my Commencal meta 55 (68 degree head angle) and I set sag to 25% in the attack position, which gave me about 5-10% sag when seated and little small bump sensitivity. I like it like this because if you get into some steep, slow, all your weight over the front stuff, you get the support you need.

I’ve just changed them over to my new Yeti asr5 with a 67 degree head angle and I get no sag at all when seated. After sitting and scratching a bit and pondering over this I’ve realised that the biggest difference between the frames is actually the stack height. The Commie has a much lower stack than the Yeti meaning more of my weight is over the front whilst seated. As a result the same forks feel really different between each frame without actually touching any of the settings.

I would recommend that when you set sag, always do it in the ‘attack’ position, and accept that whilst seated you won’t get a loads of small bump sensitivity. It takes a very special frame and fork combo to have support and small bump sensitivity. The only fork I’ve had that come close is my old Bos Devilles.

That’s not something I’ve experienced with my Revelation Teams. I can’t comment on how they are with the yeti because yet again I’ve received a brand new frame with a faulty Fox RP23 shock, so haven’t been able to ride it. That said, with the Commie they were far from linear or divey. To be honest they’re the best Rockshox I’ve had in this respect. Maybe these are a fluke?

You’re likely to get issues with air not being able to transfer into the negative chamber as the transfer port gets blocked with extra grease or oil though.

Well I was waiting for you to fess up to something like that…. 🙂
May I suggest 20% sag?
Can you see what I’m getting at?

I guess even rolling up some closed cell foam into a plug in the top of the stanchion would work, with a straw down the middle for the air to move through.

Sadly don’t have my old judy’s any more!

If you could get foam that started to compress with the increasing air pressure in the last half of the stroke, you could get some nice mid stroke support without shelving too much towards the end. I copyright that idea! © bigjim 2014