- This topic has 20 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 6 years ago by bigyinn.
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2 Cars, 2 Questions (VAG TDI/Pug HDI)
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mikeydFree MemberPosted 6 years ago
1. Audi A6 2.0TDI BLB Engine, 220k
100m from my house, low oil pressure light comes on, I coast into my parking space and switch the engine off. Brakes went “hard” on the final brake (before engine was turned off). There were no bang or loud chain sounds prior to light coming on.Car had new oil pump/chain/turbo at 150k (before I bought it).
Question: Am I going to get any change from £1500?
2. Assuming my car is an economic write off, I’ve been offered a Pug 806 2.0HDI for minimal money (<£50).
The only issue (apart from it being a pug 806) with it is that it needs a coolant top-up every 80miles or so, it appears to be boiling out of the filler cap. New cap fitted but no joy – blocked rad or thermostat maybe?finishthatFree MemberPosted 6 years agoHow many taxi journeys will the 806 save you ? for no money it works and if you nurse it it could keep you going until you find something you choose to buy instead of a distress purchase.
somafunkFull MemberPosted 6 years agoAm I going to get any change from £1500?
When was the last time you checked the oil level?,, changed the oil and filter?. if never then check the level now – could be a very simple fix (oil pipe perished or leaking) or could be a major fix if the engine has run dry of oil/seized turbo etc..etc.. but if the oil pressure light has just came on in the previous 100m then i doubt it
Brakes went “hard” on the final brake (before engine was turned off).
The brake servo works off the air intake system, i dunno if the Audi uses a Hydraulic servo or a vacuum servo but both will only function if the engine is running, there’s an easy test but that involves pumping the pedal with engine off, holding pedal pressure then starting the car, the pedal should drop if the servo is functioning but i guess you shouldn’t be starting the car until you get it checked out.
it needs a coolant top-up every 80miles or so, it appears to be boiling out of the filler cap
Cracked cylinder head, walk away very fast.
mikeydFree MemberPosted 6 years ago1. Oil & filter changed every 20k until I got it, then changed every 10k by me. Oil level is fine.
2. Mate has been running the pug like this for the past 6 months (seriously), oil looks fine and no mayo on the oil filler cap.
somafunkFull MemberPosted 6 years agoHow does the oil look, does it smell of diesel which would lead to loss of viscosity/pressure (tandem pump failure), the oil pump driveshaft is also a weak point on these engines and wears which leads to the pump not getting up to speed but still able to deliver a half decent pressure but not quite bad enough to set of alarm, eventually the driveshaft fails and immediate loss of pressure.
French car/coolant top up every 80 miles just sets my spider sense on edge, perhaps it is just a faulty thermostat but why hasn’t he got it fixed?.
mikeydFree MemberPosted 6 years ago1. That’s what I thinking – pump drive shaft.
2. Laziest man alive.
somafunkFull MemberPosted 6 years agoJust spoke to a mate, definitely broken pump drive shaft, leading to turbo failure, brake vacuum driven by turbo so loss of servo thus hard brake pedal.
So?……about that Peugeot?……… 😉
Saying that do you have a “mate” with spanners who could fix your audi?.
sobrietyFree MemberPosted 6 years agoMine to, but the car is less than £50 so worth a punt as a set of wheels to use while he sources something else if his is properly dead.
I wouldn’t rely on it long term (more than a few weeks!), the coolant loss isn’t going to magically fix itself.
mikeydFree MemberPosted 6 years agoInteresting ref. the turbo/vac, that bit was confusing me, thanks.
I was considering spannering it myself, but now the cost of a turbo needs to be factored in, I’m not sure I can be @rsed.
Ebay it is..
A third option has presented itself (from same mate), his GF’s 07plate Fiesta, holed radiator which he replaced, now the system won’t hold pressure and he’s lost interest – £80
This is all very exciting.
somafunkFull MemberPosted 6 years agoIf i was stuck (as you appear to be) I’d possibly look at the boiling Peugeot but saying that i’m a mechanic to trade so as long as it was a relatively simple fix i may give it a chance, any possibility you could take it to a garage so they could pressure test the coolant system?, might give you an idea of the problem.
mikeydFree MemberPosted 6 years agoThanks,
Sounds like the Audi on eBay, and take a punt on the Pug.
SundayjumperFull MemberPosted 6 years ago“A third option has presented itself (from same mate), his GF’s 07plate Fiesta, holed radiator which he replaced, now the system won’t hold pressure…“
I would suggest that your mate should not be allowed near any more spanners.
molgripsFree MemberPosted 6 years agoJust spoke to a mate, definitely broken pump drive shaft,
Hang on.. don’t be too hasty. Not sure I trust anyone who says “definitely” when presented with a third hand oral account.
There whave been specific issues with certain editions VAG engines, but I’d not be assuming that without more evidence.
wilburtFree MemberPosted 6 years agoI had a simular Audi same issue, new turbo and feed pipes requiried did it all myself for something in the region of £600.
Sometime in the 90’s we also had a. sporty nissan that never had any water. It leaked at some point but my wife teally liked the car and only ever drive to the bus stop(less than s mile) so it didnt overheat.
codybrennanFree MemberPosted 6 years agoJust to correct the above- the 2.0TDI BLB has a separate vacuum pump, used for braking.
Vacuum is not driven from the turbo.
Whats probably happened is that the engine cut out, leading to a loss of VP drive and thus vacuum.
mikeydFree MemberPosted 6 years agoSo…
Audi put on ebay, 1 day later and some chap came and picked it up and gave me £900.
Mate also waived the fee for the 806 (actually a Citroen Synergie), instead I have to help him lay a lawn.. wish I just paid him tbh.
Anyway, had a go at fixing the Synergie today – replaced the thermostat.
Hasn’t seem to have made a difference, still loses water from the expansion tank cap.
Symptoms/observations:
No oil in coolant, radiator hose hot incoming and slightly cooler on outlet as expected. No apparent scum on filler cap – although it’s more of a flexible filler tube.
Drives very well, engine sounds nice and turbo seems to pull as expected.
Any ideas? Water pump? Surely an issue with the head gasket/head would show some other symptoms?
jambalayaFree MemberPosted 6 years ago£900 for a non-running A6 with 220k on the clock. Result imo
mikeydFree MemberPosted 6 years agoIndeed. Bought by 3 para military looking polish guys, said it was probably destined to be exported once fixed.
bigyinnFree MemberPosted 6 years agoRE: boiling Citroen.
Check the water expansion tank. I’ve had it where there was a nick in the rim there pressure cap screws on. So it couldn’t seal, hence it boiled over.
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