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This is a E thirteen LG1 back plate (£29)and wear plate kit (£18)bought as individual items from wiggle. I already had the M6 countersunk stainless screws and some asorted thickness spacer washers. I have never dropped the chain with this setup. One tip for not dropping chains on 1×9 is try never to pedal backwards.

Don't get this photo business

there you go 🙂

Can you explain how you did that!!

View page source to find dodgy code

Went to your Flickr page

Went to the all sizes and selected Medium

In Firefox right click over image, selected "copy image location"

Pasted that into the IMG box on here

Simples!

you could have bought an e13 XCX for £40 which would be the same, but without the ISCG mount
any reason why you didn't?

Why bother with that when the E.thirteen XCX is cheaper than your parts, and is designed for the job?

EDIT: bakes beat me to it!

Two reasons why I didn't go for XCX,
1. I'm running a square taper BB so BB mounted chain devices mess up the chain line big time
2. this set up allows a taco bash to be fitted at a later date when on rocky alpine hols.

fair enough 🙂

Chainguide. Pedal backwards all you want. If you want it lighter wait for the new minimal one to come in stock. And I'm not Neil before anyone says anything.

Oh god my eyes!

I know that form follows function but I don't think I could cope with something that shonky looking on one of my bikes

I used an n-gear and a bash ring and can pedal forwards and back with no chain issues…

As for messing up your Chainring on square taper – not a major issue for a few mm

Although I tend not to be looking at my cranks whilst riding the set up does look better with the cranks on. (it rides better too)

Jumpstop&bash works and looks tidy.

I'm about to give 1 x 9 a whirl but am confused as to why the chain drops off a lot. How does it differ from my 3 x 9 setup if I just stay on the middle ring, particularly when it comes to pedalling backwards?

Am sure it is something quite obvious but my brain isn't in gear today!

I guess this a thread on doiung 1×9 or 1×10 on the cheap.

I run an LG1 and an LG1 on different bikes, and I have never dropped a chain, not once not ever. I can pedal backwards all I want still never comes off. The trick to 1×9 and 1×10 is not to do things on the cheap. Just buy the stuff thats designed for the job and you'll never have to worry about it again.

I've found that back pedaling especially on rough terrain will cause the chain to derail unless it is perfectly in line and tensioned. On a single speed this is easy to achieve but on abike with a 9 speed cassette and flapping rear mech the chain is all over the show.
With traditional 3 ring front set up the big ring will hold the chain on the middle and if it falls to the inside the granny will catch it. The front mech does an ok job of it comming off altogether.
The set up I pictured works for me for the reasons I gave although there are probably cheaper, prettier options out there but you will need something for sure.

There's also a danger of spending more than you need and relying on stuff rather than inproving your bike skills

How does it differ from my 3 x 9 setup if I just stay on the middle ring, particularly when it comes to pedalling backwards?

The outer and inner rings help prevent the chain from coming off the middle ring; or at least they help to ensure that it goes back on the middle ring after it's been bounced off (often at the same time as a back-pedal). The derailleur cage restricts the movement of the chain on the top of the ring.

I've ended up with Gamut P20 guides on both my bikes. The chain is secured top and bottom, and even with the bash it only weighs in at something like 200g. A small weight penalty for guaranteed chain retention.