So i was considering trying 1×9 but!

1 Do i need a chain device up front?
2 any recommendations for a ratio set up

32 front with 11-32
34 front with 11-32 or 11-34
36 front with 11-34

awaits the onslaught of comments 😉

1. I would recommend a device of some kind, I’ve got a Superstar one up front no problems. It would be interesting if these new clutch type rear mechs will do a good job of keeping the chain tensioned enough to keep it jumping off.

2. I run 32 front with a 11-34 on the back and can get up most hills except the more technical long ascents. I just did a week up in N Wales and had to get off once as my legs gave in, however I was still walking up faster than my mates spinning on their grannies.

I have been running a single ring up front for a number of years now and had no dramas, simplifies the drive train, less to think about and repair/adjust.
See how it goes and if it doesn’t suit throw the granny and big ring back on, or go two up front.

1 Do i need a chain device up front?

if you just want to try it out use the front mech as a chain device by adjusting the upper and lower limit screws so it just stays on the middle ring. If you get on with it then you can invest

I’ve have a full chain device at the front and a 32t ring with 12-36 on the back.
Depends on your riding what you use. My bike is heavy and I’m no whippet so use a low ratio, also ride a lot of dh so need the full chain device.

On my 29’er HT I have a 32t front and a 12-36t cassette, regarding chain retention I use a N-Gear Jumpstop and a Bash, never dropped a chain yet

36t /11-32 on mine with N-Gear Jumpstop and bashguard, works a treat.

I have a stiffee and use the superstar on the front an it works fine with no probs and it low cost. Makes riding more simple and fun .

cotic soul, 32 and 11-34. keeps me going happily enough up 20% road climbs and all my local routes. renthal chainring and superstar chainguide.
tempted to go 1x? on my full sus (currently 26/36 11-32) but worried about getting a low enough gearing on climbs and maintaining the speed on DH descents. might hold out and see what happens with the hope 9-36T cassette idea.

1 Do i need a chain device up front?

IMO yes, absoutely, but there are others that disagree. Depends on what/where you ride normally, and what you consider to be acceptable in terms of chain loss or not. For me, the chain coming off even once is a no no, and I ride my bike everywhere from fairly flat forest singletrack to rough tough DH courses. I run an MRP with a top and bottom guide, and it keeps the chain on at all times, bit more drag but not really noticable when riding I find.

2 any recommendations for a ratio set up

Some people are happy riding singlespeed with a 2:1 ratio up mountains, so it’s hard to recommend other than get out there and try things. Personally, I’d take the opportunity to ditch 9spd and go 10spd, you’ll still get good money for your kit on the classifieds if it’s in good nick, and get yourself a 10spd setup with an 11-36 cassette as this gives you the widest ratio possible. Alternatively, if resolutely sticking with 9spd, then probably go for an 11-34 over an 11-32.

As for chainring size, I found that a 1:1 bottom gear was OK for most rides, most of the time. But when I’m really tired, and need to sit and spin just a bit more, a slightly lower gear is nice. I’ve got a 32T ring with the 11-36 cassette, I can spin out 32/11 but only really on road going downhill, offroad I don’t miss the taller gears. The 32/36 bottom gear is nice though, as it’s just low enough to give you a slight bailout gear without going silly. But if I only ever rode flatter places, I’d probably put my 36T back on for a bit more speed and grind the climbs out a bit more.

Dragging up a week old thread here, but thinking of running 1×9 on the new bike.

Anybody had any experience of running a road mech on the rear? that was there is less likely to need a chain device, and look better?