Hello all,

I’m currently in the process of converting my bike from a 2×10 to a 1×10 drivetrain. I’ve ditched the front mech and shifter, and a Hope Retainer narrow-wide chainring is on it’s way to me thanks to the internet bike fairies.

Does anyone have any top tips/wise words for me or anyone else jumping onto the ‘one by’ bandwagon?

Thanks in advance,

Jon

I’ve done the same from a triple and love it (can use the whole range now) although perhaps controversially I’ve left the inner ring on (as it weighs next to nothing) and change it manually!! – this works OK for me because most of our rides are 1 huge up and 1 big down so really I only have to change it once (by hand!) during a 2 hour or so stint … (if at all depending on the route chosen)

The Zee clutch mech works brilliantly (even though I’m generally a SRAM man)

I’ve not lost the chain yet …. (famous last words!) 🙂

Have you got / you may need narrow chainring bolts (I don’t think you will if you are converting from a 2×10 chainset tbh)

And although there are may who say it’s not needed, a clutch mech as well is the belt and braces approach to chain retention.

Judging by the last couple of rides I’ve been on, you will also need to prepare a list of excuses why you couldn’t get up the last climb.

It’s definitely not because of your choice of gearing…

I’m hoping that the bolts i’ve already got will fit (it’s a Shimano XT crankset). How do they differ?

I am tempted by a clutch mech, as I’ve got a standard XT one at the moment. I’ll see how it goes first with the old mech!

Nice work on the manual front shifting! 😉

What are your thoughts on a chain guide?

Cheers!

wiggle just tweeted this if it’s any help;

http://guides.wiggle.co.uk/how-to-convert-to-a-1×10-set-up

[edit] as an aside I don’t use a clutch mech and have lost the chain a couple of times on my FS bike with an nw chain ring. I’m probably going to fit a top guide to it, tbh, it has one at the bottom already as it’s a liteville frame.

I’m fully prepared on the excuses front after the last couple of outing with some roadie friends! The gearing should be quite friendly, Im going for a 32T chainring and a 11-36 cassette, compared to the previous set up of 28/40T rings and a 11-32 cassette 🙂

Thanks for the Wiggle link 🙂

Are you more or less likely to drop the chain on a hardtail would you say?

I’ve recently gone to a 1×10 setup (after singlespeeding during winter) by keeping my 32T Hope DH ring upfront and adding my non-clutch XTR M980 mech, chain and XT 11-32 cassette.

All fine so far.

You will need shorter bolts if (like me with an XT M780 triple) you are going from three rings up front to one.

I think you should be OK going from a proper shimano double to a single, as the bolts go direct into the crankarms iirc. Whereas on a triple, or double plus bash, the middle and outer use the same m&f bolts and are therefore longer to accommodate the thickness of two rings.

What model XT is it – should be a part number stamped on the inside.

More or less likely to drop the chain on a HT? Don’t know. On one hand the damping effect of the suspension might make the chain less likely to bounce. On the other, you have the constant chain growth and whatever-the-opposite-of-chain-growth-is on a FS that might make the chain less stable. Bottom line – try it and see.

If converting from a double check your chain line. It’s harder to get it right with a double. I had to run the bb spacer on the non drive side to move the outer ring position into the middle of the cassette.

I’ve just ordered a triple chainset from crc using the egg10 and other 10% code as the back of the drive side arm was rubbing on the chainstay

I just changed to 1×10 last week using my XT785 cranks. The XT bolts are the right length. I had to move the bb spacer to the non drive side. Got a RF n/w 32t and added a Hope 40t t-rex to my XT771 11-36 cassette after removing the 17t cog. Clutch mech already fitted.

I had a day out, after converting, around the Black Mount and found the range was great for me. Managed any climb that I could with the old setup and never dropped the chain once.

I’ve recently gone from M970 converted to 2×10 cranks to 1×10 using Hope retainer and T-Rex.

34 up front and 11-40 at the back and I got up everything I used to on a local ride yesterday – including a short but steep 26% gradient with no run up. (Also been round Cannock a few times without needing the 40T – only FTD and the blue routes though)

Trouble is today I feel like a train has squashed my hips.. 😳

Have got a 32T retainer on order for the front as it will be plenty high geared for the 99% of off road riding I do and should help the legs on hillier terrain.

With a clutch rear mech I haven’t dropped the chain once.

I love the idea about keeping the granny ring and changing manually when needed. I might try that.
The chain will stay on a hard tail much better than a full sus. I’m running 1×8 on a hardtail with a non clutch rear mech and standard chainwheel (with the ramps and pins). And an n-gear jumpstop. Never lost a chain, riding some harsh stuff. The movement of the rear suspension would cause the chain to come off a full sus much easier. I guess that’s where a clutch mech would help.
I’m currently building a 1×10 full sus with clutch mech. Just need to buy a narrow-wide front chainring.

3×10 converted to 1×10.
Kept the granny, non clutch mech and n/w chain ring with bash. 11/36 cassette.
Never dropped the chain once.