Crap, I thought it was a normal 1.5″ headtube! Any idea what the specification of the internal 1.5″ thing is, it isn’t listed on Cane Creek’s calculator. The headangle won’t be far off what I’m after, but I need a reducer headset to run 1.1/8th forks even if Works can’t sort out an offset for me.

Oh yeah, I’ve just been looking at the lyrik 170 mod you linked to, do you know the dimensions of the spacer at all? From what I can see I’m not sure if I need a spacer in one or both legs and exactly what the various dimensions are. I think I understand how it works and how to put it together, but I could do with being 100% on the dimensions before I get some machined up.

Thanks!

Distance selling act, you have 7 days to send it back….after you receive it to get your money back with no questions asked. I’d suggest you do that and get the right bike for the right job Paul.

Angle sets come with their own problems eg horrible knocking etc

I’ve got no idea about the dimensions, sorry man – except that it should be 10mm long I think.

From what I can tell it’s 12mm diameter, 8mm hole through the middle, but then from the pictures it looks to be longer than 10mm and it quotes 174mm travel, so could be 14mm? Trying to wade thtrough the thread to see if I can work out any more than that.

You can go up to 174mm of travel, but I would keep it at 170 and no more,

Two reasons

1) It’s going to rake the bike out ridiculously.

2) The taller it gets the flexier it will get.

3) You can’t get the lovely Avy damper in a 174mm model.

180mm single crowns are awful monsters.

Yeah, I was going to stick at 170mm I think, if I can work out the dimensions!

Is there a recess on the end of the spacer so that the end of the lyrik shaft sits inside the spacer?

If so the dimensions should be the same as the diameter of the shaft, but with a wider sleeve over to overlap the shaft. With a length of 10mm from the end of the spacer to the bottom of the recess.

Seriously though, isn’t a 170mm front 140 rear going to be massively unbalanced?

Bikes ride much nicer when both ends feel the same. Not to mention whether the frame can actually cope with the kind of abuse that you’d throw at a Mega, Spicy, Nomad, Enduro Evo etc.

Ill place a bet that either running to long forks coupled with a slack head angle will snap the headtube….or you’ll snap the chainstays coming off a large drop.

The fox 32 150mm has an axle to crown of 525mm…..the Lyrik 160 has a 545 axle to crown….whilst the 170 was a 555.

You’d be adding 30mm of fork height on to the bike! That’s gonna do some serious shit to the BB height and put way more forces through the headtube!

It’s 150 rear. Mark Weir is running 180/150 on his without any issues. My previous bike was 127/160, so I’ve been running them unbalanced for a couple of years now, it works well. Maybe it’s my riding style, but I always work the fork much harder than the rear end.

Nothing will snap, I’m only little!

Mark Weir has plenty of factory frames to replace his bike with when he snaps it.

And access to factory tunes to balance the bike out and perhaps even custom geometry one offs to get the BB height back down.

Has he snapped any? The headtube is massive, the whole frame is massively overbuilt and rated to 160mm. I can’t see that it’s likely the frame will break. I don’t have any history of breaking stuff like some people seem to and I’m pretty light so I’ll chance it.

I guess.

I still think that your mad. 😛

We shall see….