Would one of you lovely kind and generous people mind awfully giving me a photo?
I’m writing an article for a website and need a couple of pictures of broken bikes. I’m looking for drivetrain problems; knackered mech-hangers, mechs at jaunty angles, snapped chains, and ideally one with a rear mech through a rear wheel. For obvious reasons I am loath to attempt to create these at home and photograph it myself.Posted 4 years ago
No fee will be paid I’m afraid, although I’m happy to get you a pint if I ever meet you out there at a race in the real world.
If you have something you are happy for me to use please post them below, or email to me if you prefer (address in profile) and if you would like me to include a credit and/or link with it this too.
Piece of stick spacing out the mech to act as tensioner with its one remaining jockey wheel. Mech in spokes = snapped spokes and snapped mech spring
Standard shorten chain to go singlespeed after snapped hanger
Rode a standard mech into a big log. Bought a shadow mech, gone from destroying 3 mechs in the space of a year to none for years, apart from wearing the bushes out so they go too sloppy to shift properly
Spotted after a ride, couldn’t tell while riding
seemingly sram mechs are sprung suh that they can spring into the wheel under hard landings (mates conclusion) as this has happened two or three times. Stripped mech hanger threads, tie-wraps holding mech to hanger. Managed to get from dixons hollow, round most of the black and finish the red at dalby alright
Not compatible with freshly fluffed up hay
Not drivetrain related but this has happened at least 3 times now. after the first time having been loctited (with stronger Loctite each time) in, it just wants to break free
I’ve a couple of pics of smashed up bashrings, sort of drivetrain related. On going back through my pics, I was reminded of a lot more inner tubes bursting out of tyres (and not puncturing) than I remember. A particular problem with mavic rims and panaracer folding tyres it seemsPosted 4 years ago
I guess you’re going to try and conclude that exposed mechs/tensioners/chain/sprocket tyre drivetrains aren’t suited to MTB usePosted 4 years ago
I think most (all?) of mine have been related to not good enough setup, excess slop in the bushes and/or bent mech hangers, bent mech lower cages and dropped chains behind the cassette coupled with not knowing how/when to back of the power when these kind of issues raise their ugly head make for death to mechs ime
Read those shimano instructions properly and back of the power at the slightest hint of a problem and imo it’ll cut the risk of killing your mech/etc
Finally finished.Posted 4 years ago
http://www.andrewhowett.blogspot.co.uk/ and http://www.xcracer.com/beginners-guide-to-trailside-bodging–drivetrain-.html
Many thanks to all who helped, especially Euan, Evil Joe, James and Mackem, who’s pics I used. If you see me at a race come and say hello and I’ll get you that pint (I’m the bearded one in the XCRacer team kit)
I didn’t use Damascus’s picture, not really sure what I would have done with those!Posted 4 years ago
I suppose if you had an 8mm allen key you could poke it through from the drive side and then try to zip tie something to the non-drive side to stop it going back through, would at least give you something to stand on when freewheeling, pretty sure it’s going to be unpeddalable. (spell checker doesn’t like that…)
How did you get home Dam?
With hollow axle square tapers I’ve seen a skewer pushed through to replace lost crank bolts, works surprisingly well (just keep the wheels on the ground!) Wonder if it would work in this case? Depends how much axle is left attached I suppose.
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