On the back of several threads on here about buying tools and making stuff I’ve decided to make my own kitchen. The Peter Millard vids that were linked to were very helpful and inspiring, but where the hell can I buy 22mm MDF?

I’ve looked everywhere and can’t find any, I know it’s made as you can buy small bits of it on Amazon but I want full sheets.

I live between Kings Lynn and Spalding so I know I’ll probably have to travel a bit to pick some up, but would prefer to keep the journey under 50 miles.

Anyone got any ideas?

Ask your local timber merchants to order it in. Can’t suggest anywhere that I’d know to be local but look on line for Meyers, Timbmet and Lathams – they are the suppliers who have the breadth of stock for sheet materials and likely where your local orders material in from – If you do have a branch near you then they’ll usually deal direct to the public (not so much Meyers without the fuss of opening an account) but if find my local Indi can give me a better price on material I buy through them than I can get when I go to those suppliers direct

22mm MDF is really, really heavy as full sheets indicentally. probably around 50kg per sheet and feels heavier because its so slippery. Have fun!

“Wooderist”?

Apostrophe in a plural?

MDF?

Etc 😀

Anyone got any ideas?

Yeah. Don’t bother buying full sheets and doing all the cutting yourself.

I use a company called Cutlist, and have recently bought a fair bit of 22mm.

Use mrmdf (moisture resistant) as it works better and finishes better and is……moisture resistant.

Cutlist will basically quote you for your full cutting list, all cut very accurately and square, and also edged if you want.

I’ve had mine all edged with mdf tape which is brilliant for a painted finish.

It’s not the cheap option, but the quality is fantastic and you have to discount the time it would take you to do all the cutting and prepping, dealing with the dust and weight of materials etc.

Home

Incidentally, what are you using 22mm for on a kitchen? Pretty beefy for carcasses.

Cutlist board prices

https://cutlist.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Cutlist-Full-Price-List-R2-2019.pdf

Cynic-al
I’ve never been good with apostrophes, as my smart-ar5e kids keep pointing out!😀

Kayak
I’m using it for the rails and Stiles on shaker style doors and I’ll be cutting it into 80mm strips. I don’t mind cutting it myself, and am trying to keep the cost down as I’ve still got a lot of work to on the house.

Have you got and Arnold Laver near enough by? They are usually pretty good. 22 is a rarer size, 18 and 25 are the standards. I’d echo what kayak says, the moisture resist is nicer to work with and should last longer.

I’m getting the moisture resistant MDF as it’s going in the kitchen.
Unfortunately the nearest Arnold Laver is 100 miles away!

the moisture resist is nicer to work with and should last longer.

even nicer if you can find it is exterior grade MDF (the MR is green, exterior grade has a grey core) – aside from longevity (‘ve left unpainted sheets out in the rain for weeks on end with no issues) the  cut and routed edges are really smooth and crisp and take paint really well without sucking all up or swelling.

Another thing you could do is to use a single 18mm panel for the size of your door, then cut your 80mm strips in 6mm and glue and pin them around the edges. It’s what a lot of people do to construct kitchen doors.

And 18 + 6 = almost 22 👍

Like this, except I’d probably not use super glue on a bigger area like that.

Another thing you could do is to use a single 18mm panel for the size of your door, then cut your 80mm strips in 6mm and glue and pin them around the edges

Yeah, I thought of doing that. It’s not ideal as it’s a lot of faffing about though, and I don’t want the hinge holes to push the front bit off when drilling them. The 22mm is a pain in the bum to get but it’ll make a better job of it.

…and if I was using 18mm + 6mm (24mm) I may as well just use 25mm. Come to think of it I’ve got some 25mm in the garage, I may have a go at making a door with it next week.

Yeah, I thought of doing that. It’s not ideal as it’s a lot of faffing about though, and I don’t want the hinge holes to push the front bit off when drilling them. The 22mm is a pain in the bum to get but it’ll make a better job of it.

It’s a lot less faff than grooving a load of rails you’ve cut to take a panel. It’s just cutting pieces to length innit…

I don’t want the hinge holes to push the front bit off when drilling them

They won’t. Hinges fit within 18mm. I did loads of them yesterday. Plus, if you glue the strips on properly and not with a piddley snakey line of superglue as in that video (PVA/Cascamite/Contact) you’d not push them off anyway.

I have done a load of doors this week with a tongue and groove router cutter set, letting 6mm panels into 18mm rails and stiles. It’s deffo a lot more hassle than gluing strips around the edge of an existing panel. 😉

[url=https://flic.kr/p/24s9B5x]Untitled[/url] by kayak23, on Flickr

I have done a load of doors this week with a tongue and groove router cutter set, letting 6mm panels into 18mm rails and stiles. It’s deffo a lot more hassle than gluing strips around the edge of an existing panel. 😉

Genuine question kayak, and I’m really not taking the mick, why didn’t you do the 6mm and glue thing instead of slotting the rails and stiles on that then?

I’m making quite tall, slender wardrobe doors. 22 or 25mm would make them a bit chunky. Could use 3 layers of 6mm but actually that’s more work as you’d have to actually press them all together, being a bit thin for fixings.

Also, I think that technique works well for the diy approach, if perhaps you don’t have a full set up in terms of equipment etc, and works well on kitchen-type doors however, not sure I’d want it on cupboards that I’m making for clients, as it kinda does look a little diy-esque. Opening the door of course you get a flat inside face(unless you do both sides)

It’s a modern approach and there’s nothing wrong with it. The last cupboards I made were made from actual, real, genuine tree wood though, and that approach isn’t appropriate there.

Good question though. Made me have to think why I bother… 😂

Thanks @kayak for the Cutlist link, sheet material heaven! Up until now, I’ve used Latham’s for special veneered or finished sheets (ply and mdf) but the range from cutlist seems way bigger. Helpful 😁

To the OP, I’ve just made a load of cabinet doors in the Shaker styleee and found the 18mm with 6mm strips the way to go. As for carcasses, personally, unless the sizes I required were non-standard, I would buy them in, I also have a company near me who make and supply unusual cabinet doors finished to my supplied RAL. I get where you’re coming from in terms of wanting/needing to make your own, however sometimes your time is better spent getting the fitting right. YMMV

Definitely some food for thought there, thanks all.

I may buy the carcasses as I only need 6 for the wall, but the doors I’ll have to make as I need 30ish doors and drawer fronts (plus the extra 6 wall cupboards) and the cost will be prohibitive to buy them ready made.
I have a garage to work in with a decent bench (table saw included), a router table will soon be set into one end of it as well so I seem to have the tools required.
I also have the time as I do weird shifts that give me a week off every 7 weeks, coupled with that is Mrs Spursn17 who is pretty relaxed about when it gets done and the mess involved.

Sleeves up and time to get stuck in soon!

Cool. Sounds like a nice setup.

Pics as you go please! 🙂

I posted a pic of the bench in the ‘last thing you made’ thread. I’ll try and post further pics as I go on, even the embarrassing muck ups! 😂