What are you all running?

Which MTB Cranks are Strongest?

Don’t know, don’t care.

What are you all running?

Octalink Deore.

race face aeffect seem ok, as do XT m8000 and deores i’ve had,
what are you planning to do with them.

ps. the “RF next” my mate had have been returned so light but not overly strong, so id avoid them.

The Crank Bros eeWings Ti cranks have to be up there as one of the strongest surely?

https://www.canecreek.com/product/eewings/

10 year warranty!

Sort of depends what you mean by “*strength” really. For reliability and strength I honestly can’t see past Saint. got ’em on 5 bikes. (2xDH, 1x Slope, 1xDJ & 1x4X).

*plenty carbon cranks are very “strong”

I would say the first gen (m800) saint. They weighted in at over a kilo – simply a huge amount of metal in them – engineered towards the end of the ‘josh bender’ hucker days of freeride. I ran a set for 15 years (riding dh on short travel bikes the whole time – probably 8 weeks in whistler and the same in the alps during that time) and towards the end the splines were worn but they still took the hits

white industries.

Which MTB cranks are strongest? What I’m an arm wrestle, for knocking in tent pegs? Or for what type of riding?

As for what I run, Descendant carbons, been dead happy with them too after killing about 5 sets of Sixc’s difficult to look past race face aeffects as well mind. Had a few sets of those and always happy with them.

Race Face Turbines are pretty substantial.

Don’t touch their carbon cranks though obviously.

Never broken cranks. The only parts I have destroyed through abuse are wheels, derailleurs, saddle, pedals, and one frame. Cranks that I haven’t broken are Shimano XT, Hope, Raceface evolve. Currently running the dreaded Raceface Next R carbon cranks on my big bike…just because I found some cheap on ebay. I am still fully expecting the pedal threads to come unglued at any moment but so far so good. 1 trip to the alps and 1 trip to Spain – still going strong. Super light and stiff too. Maybe its because I bought the R version which is supposedly stronger? Or maybe they will fall apart tomorrow. Who knows?

Don’t want Shimano cranks. I’ve read here that they snap all of the time…

(*coughs quietly*)

There are a few cranks that seem to break a lot. All the ones I’ve broken and seen broken have been through fatigue rather than a strength issue, and I haven’t seen any newish cranks fail.

So apart from the odd design that seems to have a lot of warranty issues, they’re probably all pretty strong.

I reckon if I just wanted strength, I’d go for Saints. Shimano stuff is pretty solid, they’re burly and made by Shimano.

Not MTB but town singlespeed: I’ve broken both left and right arms of a Sugino Messenger crankset. Over the bars both times, into the road. It hurt, lots.
Suggestions for replacements welcome.

Saints. Or old Diabolus.

truvativ hussafelt

I’d be willing to be the actual strongest are either Saints or the steel Profile MTB cranks. They weight a vast amount and essentially the same cranks have survived abuse from thousands of bmx’ers over the years.

Syncros Cro-Mo cranks must have been bombproof.
Personally I’ve never had issues with any HT11 cranks.

I’ve never snapped a crank and used so many different ones. Got to be unlucky to get that happen if imagine.

I did bend a crank in a big crash last year that also damaged my knee a lot – but I’d rather it bend than snap (Sram GXP 1000 single ring crank – non Drive side).

Those 24Seven’s arms didn’t even line up straight when new. The chainring/spider bolt was also on the wonk (chainring didn’t run true) and they weren’t strong from a bending aspect. I
Went through multiple arms when I ran ’em. 24Seven were good guys tho. shame they’re gone.

The profiles are good cranks tho. I’ve still got a rusty set on an old bmx I don’t ride anymore. But due to their BMX intentions even the mtb BB really isn’t a very durable well sealed design to be used in wet conditions and washed often. They’re also NOT heavy. Comparible to saints using profile’s Ti axle.

IIRC Diablous were supposedly strongest at the time, like Saint they had masses of metal in them. No idea if that’s including Profiles though as mentioned above they’re essentially BMX cranks.

I’ve never broken cranks, I tend to strip the pedal threads out by lumping into rocks. I’ve a set of xtr m9000 that are holding up well, and a set of race Face turbines that I’ve run for years.

@colournoise

What pedals are those in the pic mate?

Sorry for the OT.

My Gusset 853 Pigmys appear to have survived well. A PITA to fit initially though as instructions were rubbish.

I’ve repainted them with Hammerite at least 3 times :o)

What pedals are those in the pic mate?

They have 24seven written on them, which seems to be a defunct retro brand.

Truvativ Hussefelt cranks on the Howitzer BB are absolutely bombproof.

Cranks themselves are pretty simple, a bit heavy, but built to take serious abuse.
The BB is actually a very good design. Takes the best bits of HTII and Isis BBS, and combines them….splined separate axle, big outboard bearings, good sealing. I’ve had one on the go for over 5 years, and it’s still running smoothly.

What pedals are those in the pic mate?

Sorry, can’t remember. They’re on my rat bike, so will have been whatever was cheap on ebay/amazon /whatever bike shop I looked at.

They have 24seven written on them, which seems to be a defunct retro brand.

Cranks are 24seven. Pedals are some no brand flats.

Unlike geex, I’ve never had an issue with those cranks being weak or out of true (hence them still being in service 8 years or so after I bought them). Obviously I’m no riding god but I am heavy and lacking in finesse…

Sorry Colournoise. It was MK1 24seVeN cranks didn’t line up 180 from each other from new. Now I’ve had a better look yours seem to be the later relased Superfats which were a big improvement.
Still not sure what use recommending cranks from a company that went bust a decade ago is. Or are you selling them?

Not Old Middleburns!! 🙂

Not Old Middleburns!

Dunno, I’ve been abusing a set of RS7s on and off for 10 years now. Plenty of trials riders use em too 😉

I busted quite a few pairs of the xc ones warranty was great though

Still not sure what use recommending cranks from a company that went bust a decade ago is. Or are you selling them?

Heh. Just answering the actual question in the OP. They’re the strongest cranks I’ve had.

In terms of cranks you can actually buy, I’ve never had any issues with my XTs… Other than the finish rubbing off pretty much instantly once they’re out of the box. Mmmnnn, patina.

No idea. I’am happy with Deore stuff and Saint (especially BBs).

+1 for Profile racing cranks still running on my BMX.

@munrobiker running that chain ring also.

I’ve got those 24seven cranks on my dh bike. Very strong and heavy. Work perfectly.

Not the strongest but my ancient M970 XTRs were cheap, light, and they work. Had em on downhill bikes, they worked, had em on xc bikes, they worked, and they’re sort of pleasingly destroyed looking too. I am pretty light though and I don’t hit them anything like as hard as some folks, but they’re extremely good for most poeple

Putting saint on my “new” bike just because it seemed morally correct 😉

Forget that re. my 853 Pigmys…snapped them this morning :o(

I tend to gravitate to Race Face Alu cranks. I’ve been very happy with a couple of generations of Turbines umvttge current 30mm Cinch version. Right now, I’ve got an old 24mm triple Evolve XC crank (that is much meatier than the name suggests) running singlering on my HT and Shimano CX70 (6700 Ultegra with different rings) on my CXy thing.

As mentioned, don’t buy RF carbon cranks. The metal ones are fine. Some companies seem fine with carbon cranks (eg, SRAM) but others seem to have problems they can’t solve where the carbon and alloy bond.