My beloved Alfa GT now has 201k on the clock and will probably require a fair bit of work to get it through its MoT later in the year. Front shocks, upper wishbone, possibly some rear suspension replacement, new back box/exhaust, and it’s just developed a rough idle (not investigated yet to determine the cause – could be MaF or an injector fault)

I’ve no issues spending money on a car to maintain it (generally cheaper than the depreciation on a new one, IMO) but it’s starting to feel like I’m gonna be throwing good money at the car that could be better served on something newer.

At what point do the STW collective decide to give up on the car? I feel bad sending a good car to the scrapper – but I can’t imagine anyone wanting to buy a high mileage Alfa that needs some work.

Alfa

At this point.

Seriously though, can you do the work yourself? If so, as up the parts cost, and see how looking at the figures makes you feel. If there’s that gut wrenching discomfort and concern then you should probably get rid, as that will probably nah away at you. If it’s an inner sigh but you know that the rest of it seems ok, then better the devil you know, crack on.

My Honda has 240k miles on it. I reckon one more MOT.

I’ll then give it to someone who needs a car but is short on cash.

I reckon if you can afford a new(er) car and the next MOT is a bit costly, then it’s time.

A good car 😁.

I usually run them into the ground BUT,,,,,,

I would be putting cash in the bank for a new banger come MOT fail time.

When you no longer trust it for what ever reason

Usually after you stop maintaining it and it starts to need lists of work rather than the odd bit every few months…..

Most of the time this is due to people ignoring issues until mot time and their hand is forced.

Or your requirements for a vehicle change significantly.

I only give up on a car if and when rust kills it but I do my own spannering. The other reason is if your personal situation changes.
I own a 180k mile 2005 Volvo and a 108k Transhit.

>240k Honda
I bet the motor is just run in

MOT costs for my 180k Civic were over £1500 to correct everything this year. It’s 17 years old, getting ratty in places, mechanically is sound but the chassis was rusted. Someone ripped the rear windscreen wiper arm off a while back and the mounting nut is stuck on, so can’t replace that without a lot of effort, the aircon is shot.

I’d like to keep it running for a few more years, I still love it, but decided it was time for a new second hand motor, with lower mileage and some nice new shiny toys.

£1500? Blimey. The Golden rule of bangernomics is when it costs more to repair than you can get out of a cashpoint in one go, it’s time to move on. I don’t think I’ve ever spent more than £200 on mot repairs and I’ve been running bangers for 15 years. Currently have a 160k signum that I bought for £1500 5 years/50k ago. Its got an mot coming up, then I’m aiming for one more out of it (so 2 years). Cars seem to have much better rust protection than they used to – this car hasn’t been welded and shows no signs of needing it

As soon as it starts to cost more than the depreciation on another car would cost.

keep it running. can you source second hand parts for a garage to fit?

A few points.

Remember that a car is not one thing, it’s a collection of parts which are often independent although not completely. So if your wheel bearings need replacing, that doesn’t mean the springs are going to fail next month. It means that if you fix the bearings you have a car running on new bearings.

Most bits can be replaced more cheaply than a new car. And if you get anything other than a brand new car, the parts on the replacement car will be in various states of wear anyway.

Comparing the cost of repairs to the market value is also often foolish. The market value of the car is related to it’s image and desirability on the market, and is not a true reflection of its intrinsic value. This is why decent cars get scrapped all the time.

If you say well, I could either fix the suspension for a grand or I might as well change the car for £1500, this can also be foolish. Because a £1500 car is likely to have nearly knackered suspension too or some other issue.

Bangernomics is a little different; this isn’t simply running cheap cars, it’s buying £300 cars and binning them whenever they need work. This works because you never have to spend more than £300 every six months or so, but the down side is you are always driving a shit heap and it might break down at an inconvenient time. It does not work economically with £1500 cars.

People care less about older cars which means they do the minimum and fix using cheap parts. So buying a cheap car usually means it’s got cheap parts or stuff has been ignored.

I’m investing in keeping the Passat running nicely. It’s on 150k, I changed the bearings recently. It wasn’t obvious that they were worn, but one of the fronts had a load of play, and the car is now a lot quieter overall. I’ve replaced nearly all the consumables and it’s driving really well. My only issue will be if it gets written off, because the payout will only get me another old car which is unlikely to be as well maintained!

But the decision depends on your circumstances. If you can afford another car that’s a few years old, and you want an upgrade, then go for it. A car ten years younger will be nicer because they’ve been improving all the time in terms of refinement etc. But chopping in a car for one of similar age rather than fixing it is a loser IMO. But choose quality parts. Unless it’s rusty, or has some kind of serious engine issue.

as above.

My Nissan is over 17 years old, had it from 10 months. I’m another that keeps them until not reliable. It’s totally sound at present, everything works as it should, motor runs excellent. But, a big bill could mean I get rid at some point as it’s not worth it, but, at present, the car carries 4 bikes easily (far easier than trying to get bikes on the top of my missus crossover) so I’ll keep it.

Kids are older teens now, so I recon my next car will be something like a second hand GT86 or 370 Z upto £15k.

Thanks for the input.
I wouldn’t bother replacing unless I was going to go significantly newer, as mentioned, even spending £7-8k on a newer car still wouldn’t eliminate the possibility of a big bill.

I don’t do my own spannering bar simple stuff like oil changes – so that rules out cheap repairs.