I have a Fox DRCV shock on my bike and the rebound adjuster is clogged up with dirt so doesn’t turn. What size allen key do I need to get it off? It’s something between 1.5 and 2mm.

don’t remove the rebound adjuster! It’ll make the rebound meter rod pop through and you’ll end up needing a full rebuild.

Can you tell me how can I free it off?

I’m not having much luck with this shock. It has suffered from ‘dead travel’ and ‘squishing’ noises from new. It’s been to Mojo 3 times and back to Trek UK once. Pity I can’t swap it out for something decent!

Sorry ’bout the thread hijack, but I was hoping LoCo was lurking today. Cheeky I know, but any chance you can tell me how to change the oil in the new Fox CTD O/C dampers? Ta.

Is jammed on full slow or fast? or just gritty?

There is a detent ball and spring that makes it click which is retained by the grub screw on the End of the shock eyelet, you can remove the grub screw and get the spring and ball out to clean, which may hekp, the main thing is not to remove the grub screws on the side of the shock body as this will allow the rebound knob to move and the meter rod shift.

I’m sure you can swap the shocks for custom tuned units with different/custom upper bushes made up.

Hi Perthmtb, O/C damper do you mean open bath? or do you mean a shock?

Hi LoCo, no its not the open bath, I’m familiar with those, what’s got me stumped is the new damper Fox have on their 2013 model CTD Evolution series – its neither an open bath or a FIT, they call it an ‘open cartridge’ or O/C.

There’s no service instructions on their web site, just a rather confusing description of it here. and I can’t work out if changing the oil woudl be a simple task or not. Any advice appreciated…

http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm check the parts diagrams 😉

2013>float>diagrams> CTD OC cart dias.

bit like a rockshox but with a separte damper tube instead of using the inside of the stantion leg as sealing surface

Thanks, had a look at those parts diagrams, but unfortunatley can’t really work out how it works from them 🙁 Maybe its one of those things that becomes obvious when you’ve got the part in your hand – but don’t really want to get that far to find I’m out of my depth 😕

So, any idea whether it would be easy to replace the damper oil without having to dis-assemble the cartridge. If its anything like an O/B I’d be happy to have a go, but i wouldn’t feel confident messing with a FIT cartridge, as that’s a bit beyond my mechanical capabilities…

Not seen one of these in the flesh yet, but lower/rebound assm looks like it’s held in by a spring clip (like the ucup on a vanilla/float neg spring ) and the top/compression assm. is threaded into the top of the damper tube.

Best to call Mojo if you’re unsure.

It’s going to be fairly easy with the right tools with one in front of you.

Ok thanks, you’ve already been very helpful (as usual). Guess I’ll suck it and see – afterall, what could go wrong 😆

Is jammed on full slow or fast? or just gritty?

There is a detent ball and spring that makes it click which is retained by the grub screw on the End of the shock eyelet, you can remove the grub screw and get the spring and ball out to clean, which may hekp, the main thing is not to remove the grub screws on the side of the shock body as this will allow the rebound knob to move and the meter rod shift.

Thanks for that LoCo
I had another look at the DRCV shock last night. It is just gritty so I just want to clean out the ball, spring and ball seat area as you suggest.
There are grub screws on the blue lever, the red adjuster, the side of the shock body below the adjusters and at the opposite side of the shock body slightly further down.
Which should I remove to clean out the assembly and what size of allen key do I need?