Watches N+1…

That is one very nice looking watch!

Very nice Derek_starship, welcome to Samurai club…

Like wise Derek, very nice.

nice! lovely dial Derek!

i managed to get ro crystal palace jewellers and told Daryll my SMP seemed erratic on its time keeping, going +3 s/day to -24 sec/day depending on orientation. he stuck it on his machine and for a moment it looked fine…then it began to drift….then flipped it over and..oh dear poorly! amplitude was only 70 and the trace very poor. service time. he guessed it may have aloose jewel in the balance wheel. £65 ish and 2-3 weeks. ‘beats’ omega

Just treated myself to Citizen Diver. I’ve been after one for a while and saw one at a good price. I’m too lazy to wind a watch

ElShal – that Citizen is a fine looking piece, not unlike my SPORK in some ways. Nice clear easy to read dial, and a good solid build. Nice one!

Timegrapher app is a cheap way of checking amplitude and getting a beat trace. Need a mic set of headphones and an absolutely silent room with mic taped to watch. Does make micro adjustments to regulator easier to comprehend that micro movements can change from +10 to -10s/d

Following Eddie at timefactors as he tweeks the Smiths Everest 36mm watch. Three versions available, one very early Explorer like, personally I am going for the Smiths version in white when available.

Thanks Wally, I wondered if there was an app.

That smiths looks nice.

@CountZero – thanks. It’s a ProMaster BN0150-61E.
Citizen aren’t everyone’s cup of tea but simple things like the seconds hand being aligned with the seconds markers really impress me and cater for my slight OCD. The crown at 4pm is great as it avoids that annoying digging in to the back of my hand. The bezel is also aligned correctly with no play in it. I really like it.
There are lots of reviews out there and comparisons with a variety of Seiko divers. I also really like Eco-Drives hence my choice.

Seconds hand being aligned with the seconds marker is a must.
That’s not OCD, it’s quality.

Although I did get a bit extreme about it.
Casio Oceanus
Had the function that it checked the second hands alignment and micro corrected it, automatically. Cost a bit mind and of course flipped it after 6 months, just a bit too big at 41mm for my wrists.

Quick q – I have an omega sea master chronograph automatic from around 2002 ish I think.

The screw down crown has broken so it no longer screws down, it still works fine for adjusting the time and manually winding etc, it just won’t screw down. I’m guessing the thing it screws onto has snapped off.

I presume Its not going to be water resistant anymore?

Also the rotating bezel is a bit loose, I’m guessing the ratchet mechanism(or however it works) has worn.

Are either of these issues an easy DIY fix, or am I best sending it away?

Any ideas what this is likely to cost to get repaired? From omega or from an independent?.

correct it isn’t water proof without the crown screwed down. Its likely strpped the thread, probably the thread on the crown (hopefully) in which case a decent repairer can simply swap in a new crown. if the thread in the case is damaged i guess the repair is more complex, dunno.

Bezel, maybe a broken spring or something in the ratchet, quite possibly an easy repair for a shop but not something I’d do at home, you need a tool to pull it off for a start so a trip to the shop would cost less.

Iirc, it still has rubber seals in there so while it won’t be waterproof to 30atm it’ll be as waterproof as your average watch without a screwdown crown. Someone I know forgot to screw down their crown after adjusting and didn’t notice for a couple of weeks and had plenty if contact with water but no ingress.

The crown threads onto a threaded tube which threads into the case I think on the SMP. So either the inside of the crown or the outside off the tube is stripped. Possibly just the first thread may be damaged from cross threading. I would be absolutely amazed if the tube was broken off, I can’t see how you could generate enough force to do so. With a loupe and the crown all the way out you may be able to see. It may be possible to chase the thread on the tube to repair. Not really a diy as it requires opening the watch to remove the crown. Replacing the crown or tube at that point is easy.
The bezel you can totally diy. Probably the spring (bezel ratchets work very similar to freehubs). Pop of the bezel with either the proper tools or a knife (!) Plenty of opinions on which. Replace parts as needed. Be warned, a new bezel was over $300 US last time I looked. Plenty of videos on how that is done if you Google.

thanks all, I guess I’ll take it to a local watch repair place and see what they say.

It’s been like this for years though, as it still works and looks fine, so I imagine I’ll take the lazy option and just not bother getting it fixed.

This watch was stolen from me in a burglary in 2007, I didnt expect to see it again until I got a call from the police a few years later, in 2012 I think, they’d done a raid on some scrotes house, and in the bottom of a wardrobe found a load of watches (some good ones, rolex’s etc), mine was in there with all my paperwork including my mobile phone number on the original receipt, so they called me up and reunited me with it. So I blame the scrote for the damage…

So then, talk Speedmasters to me. I keep being tempted, tried one on today and liked it, seems very good value in an odd way. Anyone got one? Still wear it/like it?

Slight highjack if I may? I’ve got my dad’s old Bulova Accutron tuning fork watch. I’d like to show off the mechanism but it’s got a normal steel back. Is there anywhere that could make a display back?

https://tinyurl.com/y497ncjn

https://tinyurl.com/y36pyfsj

Lunge, if you like it isn’t that enough?

It’s a bit of a classic, a watch that holds value, but a watch that costs alot to service. That’s about as far as my knowledge goes.

Can anyone recommend a strap tool kit for removing links, spring bars etc??

@ElShalimo – there are loads available through Amazon and eBay, they’re all pretty similar, but one of the more expensive and comprehensive ones might be what you’re after. I’ve got one, about as basic as it gets, but I’m probably going to get one like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07G2N1QJ5/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bDV1Qd_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-11&pf_rd_r=0256HYP7MT38Z4FDZV4M&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=c681fef1-4618-5ba7-85be-3f928958240e&pf_rd_i=199486031

So then, talk Speedmasters to me. I keep being tempted, tried one on today and liked it, seems very good value in an odd way. Anyone got one? Still wear it/like it?

Wooo let’s go! I love talking Speedies.

I’ll assume you’re referring to the Professional model from here –

I’ve had mine 2 years now and have worn it nearly every day. It’s a great watch with an incredible history and heritage.

Value for money – some proper movement nerds would argue it’s not terribly good value for money – it uses a (classic, well proven) movement that was first released in 1968, and hasn’t really changed much since then, only incremental upgrades. Some would argue with all the advancements movements have made recently, the 1861 is antiquated and outdated. For others, however, that’s part of the charm.

The flip side to this, is that the movement is well proven as a reliable, strong workhorse movement. It’s not a watch that needs to be babied, it’s a proper toolwatch designed for everyday wear. If it was strong enough for the dudes at NASA it’ll be plenty strong enough for you…

Personally, I love my Speedie. I really enjoy winding it every morning, the dial, the lines. It’s great. Super versatile too – it can ‘dress up’ on a nice leather 2 piece. Dress down on a NATO or retain that ‘sport watch’ aesthetic on the SS bracelet.

Also – too add on the value for money front –

I am unaware of any other watch that has the pedigree and heritage that the Speedmaster does at the same price or lower. There is no other more ‘collectable’ watch than the Speedmaster. The Speedie is a watch that can sit alongside Patek, AP, VC etc in a collection and not be out of place.

That is really what you’re paying for and where the value is. It’s a proper ‘watch guy’ watch.

Thanks plyphon, exactly what I want to hear. I’ve got a lovely leather strap that’ll work well for it, and they seem to come with a bracelet and a black nato. I’m thinking of the professional with a sapphire crystal, firstly as it’s a bit harder wearing and second as it has the clear case back.

Ooo nice, the clear casebacks are so cool – means you get the 1863 movement instead (it’s the same as the 1861 but ‘decorated’ to look nicer through the caseback).

I went hesalite myself – if you’ve not already I’d ask to see the hesalite side-by-side against the sapphire. Some people don’t care for the difference, but others it drives insane!

I’m hovering over the buy button on a Samurai too – got a few Seiko 5s that I like and rotate, but fancy something a little more special and have been looking at various Samurais for an age…

The biggest of my 5s is 42mm – but the Samurai looks quite large on the wrist given it’s only a couple of mm bigger – really like the Save the Ocean special edition that @derek_starship went for, that’s an option and also the black edition version on a rubber strap.

Has anyone used watcho.co.uk? They appear to have bricks and mortar shops around Milton Keynes.

Your Seiko 5 at 42 is very close to the SMP, the Orange Monster and Samurai really don’t wear any bigger (the thickness is noticeable initially but you acclimatise very quickly). The Sammy is very comfortable and you will forget its size (and presence) almost immediately. I say that as someone with not very big wrists who initially thought the full size SMP would be to big in use.

Thanks @cromolyolly – that’s really helpful advice (and probably going to cost me!) 😎

So… Save the Ocean on stainless bracelet or the Black Series STO on blue rubber for a little more..?

and probably going to cost me!) 😎

HTH

why not both?😬

HTH again.

I don’t have a Speedmaster, but my Dad has had one for a long while. Back around 1998 we were mountain biking in Mammoth and he had a big over the bars crash into a massive pile of gravel. For what ever reason he was wearing the Speedmaster. Scuffed up all the glass, but it buffed out and no problems with it since. I guess if its tough enough for space…

Still looks great today.

Ha – thanks @cromolyolly. Really helpful… again 😆

About ten years ago I was going to buy a Speedmaster for general cycling duties etc, I then had a reality check and bought a Seiko SKX007 instead, right decision as I soon had an over the bars incident and smashed the watch into a rock, it still sports a nice big gouge in the glass as a memento of the occasion.

Had anyone any experience of Holzkern watches? Made in Austria from natural materials, wood, stone etc. Look quite different and reasonably priced

@gonetothehills

I ordered my Save the Ocean from Watcho.

Excellent service.

Thanks @derek_starship!

I’m looking at Speedy Pro at the moment too. Tried both the Hesalite and the Sapphire and prefer the Hesalite. Found the sapphire crystal had a white ring around the edge where it’s domed, plus the Hesalite is about £600 cheaper! It’s a shame they no longer do a Hesalite crystal with an exhibition caseback.

Mrs Kato has okayed the purchase. I’m just trying to justify spending the money

I was the same – once I saw the milky ring I couldn’t unsee it (what I was referring too above about ‘some not caring for the difference, some it drives insane’).

The hesalite has a slightly rounder/more domed profile which (imo) looks better than the squarer profile of the sapphire.

Can’t go wrong either way, though. Fantastic watch.

Just to follow up on my purchase, I went for a Hamilton Field Auto. Looks great, and I’ve been impressed with the accuracy of the modified eta movement – Since setting it last Friday it’s running less than a second fast today.
Bought a Nato from timefactors, and another from ebay for £3. Prefer the ebay one… the clasp and keepers are more substantial and overall it looks better.

Had an hour to kill in Manchester airport the other day, so tried on a Tag Carrera Calibre 7. Wasn’t buying at the airport, but a quick check of eBay had this for over £1.5k less than list, worn once. No other bidders. 😎

Since this is a fair bit of general chatter on watch stuff I thought I’d ask a couple of questions. First thinking on lume and advances in other stuff, dials that are ceramic, ceramic bezels, cases too, sapphire glass crystals, gold plated hands…. All these things that high end watches have/are getting seem to mean they won’t tarnish, fade or patina in anyway. Is this going to make vintage watches of the future sterile? Is the Tudor bronze bay the perfect polar opposite?

Secondly, Basel world is a month away, anybody hoping for anything particular? Who will steal the show?

Oh and I love the blue dial of the holzkern above, I could stare at that for a long time.

I’m seeing a lot of rumors around a few Rolex movement upgrades on some lines.