Is there such a thing ?
Always been a bit puzzled by component instructions that quote torque settings for things which have allen key fixings.
Is there a torque wrench that you can use with an allen key to make sure you get it right ?

You can get hex keys with a 3/8″ socket drive.

You can get allen/hex bit socket sets..

you get allen key bits that have a square fitting for wrenches or you get an adapter to fit the type that go in those multi-bit screwdrivers.

I have this set for my torque wrench as I like to keep a set just for it. you can see the 2 adapters either side of the handle.

http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catref=ak219

As above. However you will struggle to find a torque wrench that goes low enough for many bike bits.

Giant do one (as do someone else, I forget) which is reasonably priced (£30 or something) and comes with a set of allen keys to attach.

http://toolstoday.co.uk/shop.php?sec=prod&prod=7026&cat=2236&load_page=Sealey+Premier+Torque+Wrench+Micrometer+Style+3%2F8%22Sq+Drive+2-24Nm%2F1.47-17.70lb.ft
There you go

Hmm, very interesting Mister Bond. Thanks !

I have a Syntace one which goes down to 2Nm (IIRC – can’t be bothered to go and check) and came with a set of allen key bits along with the necessary square drive to hex drive adapter. Probably not cheap to buy normally, but I got a special deal on it when Syntace did a recall on my stem (got a new stem too, but had to send a pic of my old one sawn up). I tend to use it on most important bolts (ie stem bolts, but not rear mech attachment bolts).

No issues with my Park tool torque wrench, had it a few years now and apparently the beam style wrenches do not need recalibrating like other torque wrenches.
Bargain from Merlin
http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/workshop-tools/tools/tools-workshop/park-torque-wrench-0-60-pounds-tw-1.html
then coupled with this from CRC
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=36853
Though you can also get 1/4 inch square drive adapters as suggested by Andy.

However… If I was buying again I think I would have spent that little bit more and got the next park tool model up

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/workshop-tools/tools/tools-workshop/park-torque-wrench-0-600-pounds-tw-2.html

“you will struggle to find a torque wrench that goes low enough for many bike bits”

I can only think of one torque recomendation (think it was 0.9Nm) that was too low for my BBB torque wrench (2-24Nm). Ive come across a 27Nm on a frame (24Nm is pretty tight) and the 50?Nm for HTII bottom brackets, the high torque for casette lockrings and (at least crank brothers) pedals but I figure If I torque those correctly Ill never get them undone again
BBB one comes with 3,4,5,6,8,10,T25 bits too. Only drawback could be that its 1/4″ drive not 3/8″ so other bits are less readily available, but 1/4″-3/8″ adapters are avaialble

I use a Norbar one – http://www.norbar.com/ModelSL0PlasticKnob1_4__N_m_lbf_in-SL0-TorqueWrenches-54-1-12-1181-product.aspx in conjunction with a miniature socket set for about £10 from Halfords that has all the hex keys you need.

If I was buying again I think I would have spent that little bit more and got the next park tool model up

I suspect you’d have difficulty doing a stem bolt up with that to any sensible degree of accuracy. Might be ok for BB cups though. Or the cylinder head bolts on your car.

Never had any issues with stem bolts at all. Though I’m defo not a mechanic. I built my bike up a year ago and had no issues whatsoever.
Does the job well as far as I can see

The idea with the park version is not that there’s a higher tool in the range but to have both and select the correct one depending on the desired torque.

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/cgi-bin/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=3345080;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25

http://www.ciclipinarello.com/else/garanzie/PinarelloENGLISHweb.pdf

“THREADS, THREAD-LOCKERS, GREASE AND TIGHTENING TORQUES
One of the most debated issues is the coupling of threaded parts; in particular it is debated if threads should be a) degreased or b) lubricated or c) treated with thread-lockers, and what is the proper torque to be applied in each of these cases.
In line of principle, we expect threaded couplings to remain stable/tight over time with no loosening, we expect that they can be taken apart when necessary, we expect that they do not generate noises due to micro-movements of the parts, we expect them not to develop corrosion.
Corrosion, that can be a big problem because it can seize or damage threads, it is frequent between different metals (titanium-aluminum,
steel-aluminum). In the past there were no alternatives and grease was used in the threads, to fulfill all four needs. But grease facilitates
loosening, does not last forever, migrates, changes characteristics, is washed away, does not always offer sufficient corrosion protection, and reduces noises only temporarily.
Thread-lockers have been used for many years in mechanics. What is a thread-locker?
It is a liquid that is applied on the threads during installation and solidifies in the following hours. It is available in many “strengths”, but for the bike it is preferable to use the weak one, Loctite® 222 or Arexons® System 52A22. Thread-lockers offer numerous benefits when used on threaded couplings: 1) prevent undesired loosening without the need to use high tightening torques, 2) prevent corrosion in the interface,
3) prevent any micro-movement with associated noises, 4) they remain stable over time.
Thread-lockers solidify when air is absent, therefore the entire space between the threads must be filled with product, otherwise, if not
enough product is used, it will remain liquid.
Using a thread-locker stronger than recommended can seize the threads, especially bigger diameter threads.”

Just brought a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench 5-25nm from b&q for £24 and a set of sockets with hex and trorq sockets in it to. Been looking for ages wasn’t happy to spend £80-£100 on a park tool. Seems to work just fine for home bike DIY. I already have a 1/2 inch drive which is great for the car but not so pratical for the bike

Like Rio, I also have a Norbar TT20

I have a couple of Torqueleader ones, I don’t use them that often on push bikes though.
Damn good tools albeit pricey, I got mine in a toolbox from a liquidation auction very cheaply some years ago.

Interested in the truth about this:

I was told by a bloke in a pub ; Typically Allen keys of different sizes vary in length. This is to account for typical torque required for that bolt size – when fastened using an open hand

E.g. With your thumb tip placed on the bend and your open hand/fingers extended to little finger along the length.

Then fasten until key begins to flex, but using no more pressure than easily generated in this hand position.

Barrack room or bonafide MechEng’s – your opinions on the authenticity or efficacy of this approach please?

Then fasten until key begins to flex, but using no more pressure than easily generated in this hand position.

Barrack room or bonafide MechEng’s – your opinions on the authenticity or efficacy of this approach pleas

I think you’d struggle to flex 10mm and above

I think it’s true that larger size allen keys are longer because larger bolts are often done up tighter. I don’t believe the flexing thing though as the components can very too much for such a general rule.

I’ve only used torque wrenches when doing things where the correct torque and tightening sequence are really important, like cylinder head bolts. I’ve never used one on a push bike because it’s far easier, and probably more accurate, to nip it up and go ride. If you get movement or play nip it up a bit more.