I’m read that for some patent reason or other, you can’t adjust them, but also you can you just need to remove a “pin”.

Anyone know how to disassemble them? I’ve gone as far as removing the outer cover, but there’s nothing but a hex hole in there?

following, not that ive got the need to but just interested

Pretty certain Type3 is not adjustable. Type1 and early-Type2 were adjustable, then a running change introduced on Type2 with the press-fitted pin introduced which was then carried through to Type3. Unless the mech is near to replacement/retty thrashed then I wouldn’t try – I tried to dismantle an X01 with Type2/pinned and it cracked the plastic body…

Yeah it’s just over a year old and maybe 1500km, It came with my Bird 145LT

It’s been pretty crap since it was about 3 months old. I’ve changed the jockey wheels, endless cables, adjusted the B screw. Removed and cleaned the B Bolt (I’ve got a replacement coming) and got it working reasonably well again, only to find now it’s indexed well and not skipping, the chain leaps off the front ring anytime I ride a couple of steps.

I’m tempted to junk it along with the shifter and get an XT 12 set-up.

I’ve had a bit of luck swapping parts around between a 2.1(?) and a 3 I think, moving a cage from one to another. I did it because the clutch had failed…but it turned out the cage must have been very slightly bent causing friction on the pivot and preventing the clutch from working.
The springs were different lengths and the plate they connect to is different.

My first question: Is the clutch actually the culprit here? You may find that replacing the front chainring will help. When narrow-wides get worn the first thing that goes is chain retention. Consider a top guide chain device. Apologies if you’ve done this already.

If you really must take it apart:
The press-fitted pin is very irritating – it seems like its sole purpose is to thwart would-be mechanics.

I don’t know about type 3 but I’ve disassembled a couple of type 2.1s recently. The type 3s look similar but they have a different top cap. I would guess they are internally similar but do your homework. Do this at your own risk and be aware you may destroy your derailleur in the process.

For 2.1 mechs:
Prise the plastic pivot bolt cap thing off.
This reveals a large Torx bolt (T55 or something from memory). An 8mm Allen key works fine, though. DO NOT TURN THIS YET.
There is a captive pin pressed through the plastic body of the mech into a hole in the screw thread. If you turn the 8mm Allen key, it’ll pull the pin through the plastic of the mech body and make a mess.
The pin is NOT pushed in very tightly. If you can get any purchase on it, it comes out pretty easily. I wonder if you could solder something onto it to give it a pull? Perhaps a better way would be to melt or Dremel a small groove on either side of the pin – just enough to get some pliers onto the pin itself.
I didn’t do either of those. My ghetto method for getting the pin out:
Use the 8mm Allen key to VERY CAREFULLY wiggle the Torx bolt a few degrees anticlockwise (NO MORE), then back. This should chew through a small portion of the plastic, just enough to get some needle-nose pliers in to grab the pin and pull it out. Bin it; you don’t need it.

Unscrew the Torx bolt the rest of the way to reveal the clutch mechanism.

that’s a great post/info – thanks

On the 2.1 you can access the pin from inside the bolt head and knock out without having to machine the mech

I have taken a type 3 apart! There is absolutely no adjustment possible.

I was so fed up with the noise it made I felt sure I could fettle it somehow.

The clutch itself relies on a one way roller bearing – resisting forward movement of the cage but allows free return. It’s this that makes type 3 pretty noisey (ime obviously)

I toyed with replacing the bearing with a plain bushing or similar to provide more resistance – in the end I solved the issue with an SLX 12 speed mech 🙂

in the end I solved the issue with an SLX 12 speed mech

I’m leaning that way. An SLX mech and shifter is about the price of the GX Derailuer and I’m told I can keep using my SRAM 12 cassette (until it wears out at least).

“I’m leaning that way. An SLX mech and shifter is about the price of the GX Derailuer and I’m told I can keep using my SRAM 12 cassette (until it wears out at least).”

You can keep your SRAM 12 Speed shifter too

You can keep your SRAM 12 Speed shifter too

Really?! I haven’t checked since 9sp days, but didn’t SRAM have half (or possibly twice) the pull of Shimano?

Not any more.

Pull ratio is the same (or near as doesn’t matter)

My setup is (old) XO shifter, GX Cassette and chain and SLX shifter, all seems to go together quite happily.

Will eventually go for an XT shifter for the double down shift when the XO goes the distance.