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  • SLX Help – Warning Possible Newbie Content
  • bbAardvark
    Free Member

    Evening all, being relatively new to MTBing I’ve run into a possible newbie-style conundrum.

    I have a stock 2008 Rockhopper Disc which I use alot (daily commute and off-road at the weekends/evenings) and wishing to spend my no-smoking savings have decided to go for some new SLX components.

    All seemed fairly straightforward until I come to the front and rear derailleurs – which model should I buy?

    I’ll be getting the triple chainring (FC-M660) crankset as I need the outer chaninring for commuting however should I get the FD-M660 or FD-M661 front derailleur? On the rear derailleur front should I get the RD-M662-GS (shadow – what’s all that about?) or the RD-M662-SGS?

    I’ll also be buying the SLX cassette sprockets and shifters – thankfully just the one part number to contend with there (although no doubt there’s some pitfall waiting for me by using a SRAM chain).

    Any help would be most gratefully appreciated.

    Cheers

    bbA

    boxelder
    Full Member

    Front mech = FD-m660 (which is a top swing, to suit triple chainrings), clamp size 34.9mm
    RD -M662-SGS rear mech (shadow just means it’s low profile – doesn’t stick out as much)
    The SRAM chain will be fine (better than Shimano I reckon)

    There’s a sale weekend on at Merlin, so might be worth looking there – very quick delivery.
    merlin

    Have fun fitting it all 😉

    joe1983
    Free Member

    I’m assuming one of the front derailleurs is top swing and tother is bottom swing (like both are dual pull). The point they mount to on your frame will differ, therefore it depends what frame you have as to whether you need a top or bottom swing mech.

    Shadow rear derailleur has a lower profile so is less likely to be damaged on rocks/stumps etc. I *think* that the rear mech choice is limited by the gearing you are going to run – but im no expert on this so best to check this out

    Jimbo
    Free Member

    M660 is “conventional”, M661 is top swing. My Rockhopper came with a top swing front mech, so I assume yours did too. A conventional (M660) mech would (I’d imagine) interfere with the seat-tube bottle mounts, so stick with the top swing 🙂

    re. rear mechs, SGS and GS refer to the cage length. For the triple crankset, you’ll be needing the SGS (“Long” cage).

    Said components are now fitted to my Prince Albert. Rather nice they are too.

    boxelder
    Full Member

    M660 is top swing, according to Chain Reaction.
    You want M660

    bbAardvark
    Free Member

    Wonderful, thank you all – this help is very much appreciated.

    bbAardvark
    Free Member

    Boxelder – cheers for the Merlin heads up. Just saved myself £80 (compared to my CRC wishlist). The lot for £213 (front/rear mechs, crankset, cassette and shifters).

    I’ll be fitting it one piece at a time – although expect plenty of ‘Help…..’ forum posts over the next few weeks.

    Ambrose
    Full Member

    bbArdvaark- If at all possible you need to fit the drivetrain components all at the same time. The individual components (inc. the chain) will ‘wear’ to fit the most used component. This means that a brand new chain and casette will not mesh properly with a too-worn chainring and vice-versa. Chainrings, chains and cassettes need replacing at different intervals. It is the chain that is the common link (excuse the pun, not intended) between front and back so keeping it in tip top condition/ replacing it is a good plan as it is generally the cheapest component of the system.

    FWIW- I run a shimano steel granny- I use it a lot. I’m a wussy wimp riding big nasty hills. The rest of the front end is Middleburn hardcote. About as much longevity as is possible from aluminium.

    SRAM PC991? chain. Bought 10 in bulk ages ago, MUCH cheaper that way. Get a consortium of mates together?

    SRAM XT equivalent (X.9?) cassette- again multiple buy with mates for discounts.

    I’ve heard it said that a cassette will last three times as long as a chain. If replacing the big ring up front I will generally do the same with the chain. But the touchstone is the the condition of the chain. I use a ParkTools chain checker. I replace before 1% wear. Works a treat for me.

    bbAardvark
    Free Member

    Cheers for the good advice Ambrose, luckily I bought a new SRAM chain a couple of weeks ago as the old one had reached 0.75% wear.

    I like the idea of getting a group of mates together and doing the bulk purchase thing however (queue violins and plucking on heart strings) as I’m fairly new to this MTBing lark I am sadly lacking in riding mates at the moment – that just sounds so wrong.

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