@damascus no worries

@matt_outandabout but you have to “make” this each time, with the bolt idea is reusable

I’m sure we are all familiar with Marigold Bouillon power at STW. The empty pots make nice storage containers for small items.

I thought that was particularly inspired, but no spoke key I own is big enough for a valve core.

I have one of those circular ones that has multiple sizes – i’ve marked the valve core remover size in white paint and the spoke size i need in black… or is it the other way around?

This, but the lower tech, equally helpful, considerably cheaper version from Decathlon.

This one: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/chain-whip-cassette-remover/_/R-p-200?mc=8309913

I can vouch for these great tool. The cone and pedal spanners of the same design are decent as well.

If you don’t have a bike stand, use a dips attachment and some stall bars….

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2mLSCky]DIY Bike stand[/url] by Ben Freeman, on Flickr

Workshop tip number 1 courtesy of @Northwind….

…hands up who knows what comes next?

when a customer and for levers at X mm and y degrees then how do you do that?

I have no idea what angle and distance mine are. But I want them back in the same place.
I probably wouldnt notice if they both moved, but if they aren’t symmetrical it drives me nuts.
First shop that does this for me will have my custom for life.
Though I do most stuff myself now, so its rare that I need professional help.

A packet of chocolate hobnobs/digestives and a pint of tea are useful contemplation aids.

Anyone got a good technique/aid for putting freehubs with loose pawls back into the hub? I’ve done it before without struggling, but I was rebuilding an old Hope XC last night and several attempts had me scrambling around the floor looking for dropped pawls/springs. Eventually I put the wheel horizontally on my vice, put an elastic band round the pawls and pulled it off with tweezers once I’d got it engaged, but it wasn’t ideal and I’ve not had to resort to that before.

Thick grease holding the springs and pawls in from the underside and then a thin layer across the top face. Seems to keep them in place for me.

Anyone got a good technique/aid for putting freehubs with loose pawls back into the hub

Put the hub onto the freewheel rather than the freewheel onto the hub.
So, put the freewheel on the bench, or better still in the bench vice, pawl bit upwards. Fit springs and pawls. Hold it still, easier with the vice, and place the hub gently on the top of it. There is just enough room to get your fingers in to squeeze the pawls slightly, it is possible to do all three at once. Push down gently on the wheel and turn it slightly at the same time, when you fell it click push it all the way down.
Works for Hope hubs anyway, my CK ones are different.

A very good alternative to the proper tool for installing a star fangled nut in a fork steerer.

Take a long M6 set screw (50mm at least), drop a pile of penny washers on to the bolt and tighten a nut down onto them so they are tight. Now screw the bolt into the BOTTOM of the star nut. drop the star nut into the fork steerer so the washers are below and inside the steerer tube. Screw another short M6 bolt into the top of the star nut and hammer on this to drive the star nut into the fork. The washers beneath will guide the whole thing in without any possibility of it being able to coggle over. When the correct depth has been achieved remove the 2 bolts, one from above and one from below. Make sure you have a long enough extension and 6mm socket to reach the lower bolt from the fork crown before you start!!!!

For Freehub pawls i’ve used an old Campag c-like clip tool ive had for years
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312944191721 #1 here

With hope hubs I used the seal to hold the pawls in place then as you slide it together the seal slides into the correct place and the pawls engage

I have also done it just by twisting the freehub as it goes into place

Anyone got a good technique/aid for putting freehubs with loose pawls back into the hub

Yes I posted about it a few years back. I use a thin piece of wire, could be fishing line, floss or something looped around the pawls closing them down. Partially insert the freehub enough to set the pawls in the ratchet teeth and withdraw the wire/fishing line/floss/whatever.

A very good alternative to the proper tool for installing a star fangled nut in a fork steerer.

Any old screwdriver (pound through is best) that doesn’t have a bulbous handle and fits through the hole. The shaft of the screwdriver centres it and the handle wedges in the top of the star nut.

Thanks for the freehub tips. I usually do it the way @andrewh describes, just couldn’t seem to get them in this time. TJ’s method sounds good though, don’t know why I didn’t think of that.

I like Welshfarmers star nut method!
Shame he’s only mentioned it a fortnight after I fitted my new forks

Pawls- string method, or twist method, string bestest.

Ive had to start wearing reading glasses to work on anything smaller than 4mm.

I cut the base off an old work stand and bolted the stand to a garage roof beam so it pivots down and stores back up out of the way.

If you need to turn the cranks backwords to spin the chain on an emtb then an Allen key in the hole on the spider will allow it to happen.