RF setup is relatively straightforwards, but the number of people that dont hard stop their crank retaining bolt then suffer loosening crank arms and worst case scenario mangling the splines is frustrating.
Here’s my process:
Install BB with spacers as per your BB shell width.
regerence the manual for how many preload washers to use…. as ytou’re not using a RF BB, this is trial and error.. but in all honesty, even with an RF BB its only a guide anyway.
Install any washers and install DS crankarm through BB
Install any other washers and locate Non-DS crank arm based on chainline.
Start tightening.
As you get tighter, you will be able to feel for play by holding and rocking DS/nonDS arms.
Once that rocking has gone.. continue tightening as you still need to reach bottom out stop…
However, go steady here as you dont want to over preload the BB by hamfistedly getting to the stop.. if your crank arms begin to feel tight as you rotate by hand.. STOP, remove the non-DS crank arm and DS crank arms and remove 1 preload washer.
[ you may have to change your washer numbers/sizes a few time till you get it right. RF supply a wider preload elastomer also to help fine tune ]
Continuing to tighten with heavily preloaded bearings and you are basically killing them.
Go through the process again.
You want to be able to freely spin the crank arms whilst the bearings are working.. it should still a very small amount of bearing drag.
Basically, you want to achieve zero BB spindle play in the cups without applying too much side preloading to the BB
If you over preload the BB, expect it to last very little time
If you fail to reach the hard stop, expect your cranks to loosen and then you’ll feel spindle play.. or miss that and your left crank arm will fall off.
Once you meet that happy balance of preload, and chainline with a solid bottom out on the crank retaining bolt you are good to go!
Nothing will come loose and your BB will last as long as it possible ever will.. still might only be 6mo though!