Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 53 total)
  • Planet X bikes- which one should a newbie go for?
  • hora
    Free Member

    Good enough to get into road riding for fitness (not chaingangs/serious) but not ‘too much’ spendies.

    Just a good balance so that when I ride it I’ll want to ride it more. If it makes sense. Wheels- I know they make a huge difference too? So that’d be an important factor to me.

    I’m 6ft2 (GOSH)- which size?

    🙂

    http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/CBPXSLPRIV13/planet_x_pro_carbon_sram_rival_road_bike

    or

    http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/CBPXRT57FOR/planet_x_rt_57_race_road_bike

    Or A.N.Other? (which must have 0%).

    neilsonwheels
    Free Member

    Budget.?

    Ribble are worth a look.

    hora
    Free Member

    Budget is ideally 1k. I know its not ‘enough’ for a roadie but I don’t want to go crackers really.

    neilsonwheels
    Free Member

    A grand should get you a good bike with 105 level kit. PlanetX and ribble are hard to beat on value, I think merlin do a well priced road bike as well.

    Tredz

    hora
    Free Member

    Ah thank you- Ribble offer 0% and the Sportive Bianco comes in at £1100 with 105.

    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/bbd/road-track-bike/ribble-sportive-bianco?part=BB13RIBSPORTVEBIANCO&sub=conf_BBRC&bike=1

    Which wheels though?!!

    neilsonwheels
    Free Member

    Fulcrums seem to get a lot of good press and are very popular around these parts. Which level will depend on how far you can stretch the budget.

    Stick some conti GP4000s’s on the them as well. Very grippy, very puncture proof and hard wearing.

    Tom-B
    Free Member

    Have you sat on one to check that you will be on the right frame size-all important on a road bike? You don’t tend to move around too much, so need to be in a comfy position. Shimano R80’s? used to be the wheelset that was recommended on Bike Radar I think. Perhaps try a cheap carbon set from China?

    hora
    Free Member

    Fulcrums seem to get a lot of good press and are very popular around these parts. Which level will depend on how far you can stretch the budge

    The Fulcrum 3’s are +149 on the options list and roadcc gives them 4/4 so look ok? I tried AndyHilton’s bike of this parish and he had some fancy wheels on that felt quick/darty’ (hard to describe) but I think they were +400 ontop!

    unovolo
    Free Member
    RustySpanner
    Full Member

    hora – Member

    Budget is ideally 1k. I know its not ‘enough’ for a roadie but I don’t want to go crackers really.

    Step daughter has the PX SL and loves it to bits.
    It’s a couple of years old, gets used every day and raced on at weekends.
    It’s been perfect.
    She’s only round the corner from you if you want a look.
    Not your size though.

    IHN
    Full Member

    I’m 6ft2 (GOSH)- which size?

    Knowing you, XS 😉

    martinxyz
    Free Member

    Hora, the rt57 is a rocketship. I had a wee spin on one the other day. Impressive for the money.

    Del
    Full Member

    mate at work had fulcrums and i found it a PITA to get bits for the hubs, but this may be different now, or i may have just been looking in the wrong places.

    stimpy
    Free Member

    Fulcrum 5s on my road bike, Fulcrum 7s on Mrs Stimpy’s. Hub bits available in loads of places, especially on t’internet. Top wheels.

    hora
    Free Member

    Hey stiiimppeeee

    Sorry- can you spot the difference between 5 and 7’s?

    dantsw13
    Full Member

    Hora – where are you? I have a L P-X RT-57 down in E-Sussex. I think there is also a P_X stockist in Bristol and Derby, as well as the Rotherham showroom.

    I’m 181cm, and would normally go for a M bike. I went for a L RT-57, with a shorter stem, making the bike slightly less racy, and more upright, as L has a longer Head Tube than M. The RT-57 on the P_X website is configurable, so things such as bar width, stem length, and cranks are changeable free of charge.

    Mine is the SRAM rival option for £1k, which they seem to have discontinued, only doing the SRAM Force version for a little more.

    I love it, BTW!!

    stimpy
    Free Member

    There is a noticeable difference between the 5s and 7s although it’s not huge. Given the currently (very) small price difference between the two I’d go 5s.

    Got mine as a knock-down 2012 set (to make way for 2013 stock) from Merlin, although check bike-discount.de who often have cracking good deals on Fulcrum wheelsets. I run Schwalbe Duranos on mine all year-round. No problems at all.

    brant
    Free Member

    RT58 coming end of next week. From £1499 with Force and sexy cranks, and lovely, and I’ve been riding one since August. Though my wheels cost more than my car.

    Thrustyjust
    Free Member

    Dolan bikes are good value too, just bought one from them today. Interest free if thats what you want as well. Roll on Friday !!

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    Shimano R80’s? used to be the wheelset that was recommended on Bike Radar I think. Perhaps try a cheap carbon set from China?

    RS80’s look like a good choice, my R-550’s have lasted many thousand miles, just snapped their first spoke on Sunday which was a ball ache. I’d not get those carbons for every day. Wet braking on carbon is adequate at best, and lots of reports of the braking tracks bubbling up after 1500miles or so, good for a cheep race day set, but 1500 miles is only a summer of sunday club runs.

    bigdean
    Full Member

    I’d look at some of the sensa(?) Bikes merlin cycles offer. Under £800 for 9kg bike with carbon fork and 105 groupset.
    Planet x do great frames just not convinced about the kit attached to them.

    hora
    Free Member

    The ‘issue’ is Merlin don’t offer 0% though

    IHN
    Full Member

    The Cannondale that Pete linked to is a billy-bargain, 6 months interest free too. If I had any need at all for a road bike I’d be very tempted…

    Papa_Lazarou
    Free Member

    +1 here for both an Al cannondale and Paul’s Cycles.

    Don’t assume a cheap carbon frame will be better than a top notch Al frame for the same £

    http://www.paulscycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m7b65s6p4321

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    +1 for the cannondale CAAD10, my CAAD4 is (IMO) great, so 6 generations of tewaking should make it pretty special. Not only will the frame be lighter than most comparably priced carbon bikes (1150g is lighter than a lot of £1100 frames!), the parts bolted onto it will be a better as there’s money spare in the budget.

    And knowing you a CAAD10 will be a lot more re-saleable than a re-branded open mould cabon frame.

    As for sizing, there’s no substitute for sitting on one, but I’m 6ft and ride a 56, so you’d be between a 56 and 58.

    hora
    Free Member

    Edit -mainly aimed at the earlier posted ‘Dale)

    I’m a total newbie on this. So please excuse my ignorance and questions- I see where you are coming from but thats assuming that the carbon frame(s) nowadays (as opposed to the early early ones?) are of a certain accepted quality and the ‘cheap’/budget ones have had an evolution interms of flex (front triangle etc) ironed out?

    Although its mtb..I was a cheap carbon sceptic and the bikeradar review of the c456 put me off a bit for being ‘harsh’ but I’ve found the frame very very compliant and easy to ride. Maybe its where you ride them on mountain bikes?!

    Anyway- the Cannondale ‘seems’ (to a newbie like me) to be choice-bits put onto an otherwise average build? The wheels are basic straight-to upgrade and the brakes are nowt special.

    More than happy to be proven wrong but for almost 1k its a fancy winter bike?

    Again ?? as I’m approaching this from a newbie-perspective 🙂

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    Have a look on the weight weenies “introduce yourself” forum, there’s probably more CAAD10’s than anything else, they’re very popular for good reason.

    Cannondale have a reputation for building bikes arround good frames, they don’t do ‘cheep’ frames on cheep bike. Theres the CAAD8 (Ok, this is now ‘cheep’ but it is the old top of the range frame from a few years ago, not a purpose designed cheep frame) and CAAD10, SuperSix (same weight as a CAAD10) and SuperSix Evo (675g frame), and now the nano (but even the pro taem doesn’t use that) so compared to most their components are a bit on the low-rent side, but you get the top (or bottom I suppose if your a glass half empty)of the range frame. But I put about 5000miles on the comparable standard build of my CAAD4 (secondhand) and the only things I replaced were the BB (after about 2 weeks), headset (towards the end), and eventualy the wheels (they are heavy, but they’re reliable). Upgraded kit is nice, but the standard stuff won’t stop you riding.

    Or do what I did, £300 second hand for a whole bike, then anther £900 over 8 years to turing it into something a fair bit nicer 🙂

    hora
    Free Member

    Got it/see where you are coming from. The sceptic in me says what if the new owners are trading on old/hard-won well made frame(s) and the one offered is made in a different factory/cheaper with the name stuck on?

    Gawd I’m grumpy this morning.

    frazered
    Free Member

    if that is your intended use of a road bike why not go for the btwin triban 3 at £299 ???

    hora
    Free Member

    Because you can feel the difference in pickup/speed/lightness etc etc. I want something that urges me to ride/want to ride more.

    If I rode a Carrera off road I’d enjoy my ride alot less than on a SC TRc 😉

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    Because you can feel the difference in pickup/speed/lightness etc etc. I want something that urges me to ride/want to ride more.

    In that case get whatever you like the look of. You’re unlikley to get a complete dog. I’d scour ebay for a s/h CAAD10 arround £700-£800, then spend £200 on some shimano RS61 wheels or some handbuilts.

    IHN
    Full Member

    You’re over-thinking it all.

    Just a good balance so that when I ride it I’ll want to ride it more

    If you’ve never ridden a ‘proper’ road bike, then you’ll probably be gobsmacked at the ease of speed you’ll get with any £500+ road bike and the fact that they just make you want to pedal harder. However, if you’re not going to ‘get’ road riding, spunking more money will not help.

    You’re not going to race, so why spend the money on something capable of it. If you spend over a grand you’re wasting money… To be honest, for what you want, I wouldn’t spend much over eight hundred quid.

    Bregante
    Full Member

    I’d echo the recommendations for a Cannondale. Im loving mine, which I bought for pretty much the same reasons as you hora. Road biking is much more time efficient than mountain biking for me.

    Crap photo but a great bike. Currently saving for a nice blingy archetype wheelset.


    Untitled by redmancunian69, on Flickr

    It’s a 56 and as you’re local and pretty much the same height as me, let me know if you won’t to try it for size.

    hora
    Free Member

    Road biking is much more time efficient than mountain biking for me.

    Bang-on for me. If I could get out for even just an hour every other evening it’d really help me destress and help with pre-summer fitness. Although my gym is great (Sport City) I just feel like a prisoner trapped in a box in the gym so changing that hour to on the bike instead would be a boon/more fun. Even if it was just a ride to the Airport/round and back!

    Bregante
    Full Member

    I had two hours free on Saturday morning while the kids were out with the Mrs. No way could I get an mtb ride in. I rode out to the Anderton boat lift and back (37 mile round trip) and I’m not ashamed to say that I actually enjoyed it.

    winterfold
    Free Member

    Are you the one that changes frames every five minutes?

    Get the Cannondale to ease your future resale.

    hora
    Free Member

    Depends if I ‘luck in’. The only frames I’ve kept longterm tend to have had ‘Santa Cruz’ on the downtube so a manufacturer of sorted frames wouldn’t go amiss..

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    Depends if I ‘luck in’. The only frames I’ve kept longterm tend to have had ‘Santa Cruz’ on the downtube so a manufacturer of sorted frames wouldn’t go amiss..

    n+1 applies more to road bikes than MTB’s, You’ll need a race bike, a sunday club run bike, a winter bike, a training bike, a bike for the turbo, a TT bike, a Sportive bike. And idealy each bike should also be replicated in each of aluminium/carbon/steel/Ti. The problem is none are actualy ‘better’, so you can’t just sell the old one.

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 53 total)

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