My Freeranger Rival is a bit limited in gear range, particularly low end. Anyone fitted a double chainset without breaking the bank on new shifter/master cylinder/caliper? I’m thinking of a CX chainset with 34/46 and a friction thumb shifter. Is there enough chainstay clearance with a 68mm BB/axle or do I need a 73mm setup? I’ve seen one report of being able to source the original SRAM gear lever and innards but it seems difficult. Also which braze-on front mech do I need. Apologies if this has been done but I couldn’t find anything in the search. Cheers

When I last looked, it seemed 1x and 2x had similar gear range, just closer space ratios. I hardly ever spin out on my gravel so I just got a smaller from chainring (and I still don’t spin out… But I don’t do much road riding)

I’m guessing that the similarity in gear range is due to having a closer ratio cassette but I’d look to keep the existing 11-42 cassette and be careful not to use big-big combinations. A 34/42 bottom would definitely help with the steep ramps we have here in Spain.

I’ve found I can get up near enough the same steeps with mine as I can with my HT on 32/50 – basically because I’m standing up whereas on the HT I’m seated.

But, if you’re wanting to go as low as 34/42 another option could be going to a bigger cassette (needs additional cage change). My pal did this and he’s well happy. A SRAM freehub could also let you go 10-50.

https://www.garbaruk.com/11-speed-cassette-shimano-standard-freehub.html?category=10

Think I might try a garbaruk 38t oval chainring initially then if still struggling, an 11-46 cassette or if I’m feeling flush, new wheels with SD driver and 10-46. Bike was a bargain at £1150 so there’s a bit left in the upgrade fund. The issue is that most of my riding is on loose dry trails which cause the rear to spin out if not seated.

The issue is that most of my riding is on loose dry trails which cause the rear to spin out if not seated.

I live in Scotland…

Does it have an XD driver or not?
Going to 10-42 and a 10% smaller chainring would get you some climbing ease whilst retaining the same top speed gear ratio.

Or even go 12 speed Eagle casette and one of those ratchet kits to convert it?

I’d recommend using one of the gear calculators (one the includes wheel size) so you can compare the gearing on all your bikes. It makes gearing a new bike quite easy.

My gravel was 42×11-42 (so 1:1 first gear). Using the gearing calculator I decided changing to 38×11-42 would be about right, I then found (on the gear calc) that I could replicate that ratio by borrowing a cassette off another bike with my 42 front (11-46 I think) and did a couple of rides to check before splashing out. It worked, and it also confirmed that an 11-46 does have quite big jumps especially in the lowest gears that were a bit annoying.

I recommend Sheldon Browns gain ratio method.

I have a Garbaruk rear mech cage and an 11-50 cassette fitted to my gravel bike. Combined with a 38T chainring this seems to give a sensible range for bikepacking and everyday riding. Most gravel bikes seem to be sold with ridiculously hard gearing. I suppose that it depends where you live, but for most of my riding in Scotland I would always go for a wide range 1x setup.