Not impressed with these posh tyres for the ‘summer ‘ bike.

Brand new 2013 EVO TLR Nobbies in 2.1 on Bonty Rhythm Elites with correct rim strip and valves plus Stans juice. Went on no probs with Co2 cartridge but needed 50psi+ to get evened up on the rims. Hardly any Stans escaped, only a bit from tire/rim gap, side walls look good.

Waved about and spun, etc, ride round block ok. Left overnight and flat as a flat thing.

Done non-TLR NN’s on the same wheels – took a while and a shed-load of sealant for those but sealed and worked ok and stayed up, Specialized 2bliss a pice of P*** on same. Used approx. 75mm fluid each on the new tyres.

Pump up again and hope or start again with a lot more Stan’s?

Any similar experience?

Cheers.

same here, NN TLR keep going down over night. THey’re fine while in use but even after a few weeks riding, i keep coming back to find them flat the next time out. Puzzling.

Edit: have already topped mine up with extra stans goop. Thought i’d cracked it a couple of weeks back but then it started again 🙁

NNs TLRs been sound on my crests for good few months now

OP- until you’ve ridden on them, the sealant won’t be well distributed or worked in, you’ll most likely find they seal fully after a ride or two- perfectly normal for TLR.

Cheers guys,

just trying 1 wheel again. Swapped the Bonty valve core for a Stan’s one. Got 40psi in it and no noise or visible sealant escaping.

Immersion test and tiny bubbles escaping all over the tyre, not at rim/spokes/valve at all. Just needs a shed-load more Stan’s I guess.

Tubless ready? Having a laugh innit?

Hmmm, no problems here on 717’s…12 months with only occasional top ups.

Cheers guys, guess I’ll persist and see how it goes, bit more sealant and patience, keep fit pumping yhem up at least… Stan’s valve core looks a lot better than the Bonty one too, might get a few more of those. Got some Bonty Disc Race wheels unused in 6 months with Bonty Jones ACX tyres on have 20psi still in there but were ridden before that….

bungle – Member

Tubless ready? Having a laugh innit?

Nope- tubeless ready = needs sealant to be airtight. That’s not happened yet is all. If you want it to be airtight immediately, that’s what UST is for.

You need to slowly work the sealant around the sidewall of the tyre. So spinning the wheel won’t help.

They are tubeless ready which means the bead is better designed to seal on the rim. If you want a tyre to go up and stay up without much sealant then get a UST (heavier) tyre.

I put TLR NN’s on Pancenti rims a few weeks ago, shook the sealant around the side walls and they’ve stayed at the same pressure ever since. There were a couple of pin holes on the sidewalls. If you read the instructions Schwalbe do actually explain this.

Mine went well onto my crests too but after a day had gone flat. This happened after a couple of rides to too, but then without having to do anything they stayed up and have remained up ever since. The sealant just needs a bit of time to work sometimes.

Did mine on Sun Ringle Black Flags – took 10 minutes using the STAN’s shakey method twice flipping the wheel over, straight on with a track pump and lose 10psi every 6 months.

what are you all doing wrong? 🙂

I have Hans Dampf TLR and only a bit of leakage over 20 psi – all sorted now though, spend plenty of time doing STAN’s shakey method and you’ll be fine. Spinning doesn’t do a lot as the sealant goes to the edge of the tyre – you need it by the rim

Also to go back to the OP. I’ve stopped using CO2 to bang the tyres up as I’ve been told it causes the latex to “coagulate” I certainly noticed some lumpiness when I used CO2. Nowadays I manage with a track pump.
I must say I’ve found Schwalbe tyres to be quite variable in side wall permeability. Some friends and I bought a batch of ten from Germany. Eight went on fine but two of them where real mares and leaked for weeks until finally settling down.

Six Nobby Nics so far, two on flows, two on Arch ex and two on DT EX500. All have sealed over bout an hour of slow shaking as per Stans instructions. CO2 may be your problem, it stops the sealant working properly.

My first set took weeks to fully seal and would still seep sealant through the side walls. they never let me down though.

my second set didnt go down once (I got the most expensive ones though cant remember the name)

I always put plenty of vaselene on the valve and make sure its nipped up tight.

What’s a decent starting pressure for these then? I’ve been running mine at 35PSI because I’m still worried about losing air while riding (though they haven’t yet). Wondering if that is causing problems.

And on the subject of sidewalls, my front NN Evo TLR had hundreds of what looked like pinholes on it. The rear (ordered at the same time) never had that. In fact I don’t recall seeing any leaks at all from it.

I ride my at 28F / 30R.

Got them from bikediscount.com

Did all the shaking and spinning as per Schwalbe instructions but had to use CO2, couldn’t get anywhere with my track pump.

40psi in them and feel fine, no Stan’s escaping at rim or valve or noticeable anywhere on tyre. Immersed and tiny, tiny, bubbles escaping from the tyre all over with no sign of the Stan’s.

Now the beads are in place I should be able to get them up with a track pump if I loosen enough to change the Stan’s over for fresh.

Maybe just a duff batch but thanks for all the advice.

I run my tyres at 24lbs F/R. And I’m anal enough to check pressures with independent pressure gauge (pretty close to JoBlow though) Never had a problem apart from a big slide at Horner woods which burped the tyre off. But I think it would have gone regardless of tyre pressure.
And not wanting to start off another range war but… my god do Rocket Rons grip in 29er version at 24 lbs and still roll fast.

For the record: 2 months later they are fine, still got 20psi after 2 weeks without use when back from hols. Persist… Ta to all for the tips though.