May be time to lose some gears – Singlespeeding a c456

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  • May be time to lose some gears – Singlespeeding a c456
  • Premier Icon deadkenny
    Subscriber

    n+1 next build means c456 frame is spare, and I never like to waste things so thoughts moving to singlespeed.

    I’m new to this so not sure what’s needed. Replacement On One swap out I believe.

    Then a suitable chainring, chain, whatever cog stuff. Tensioner?

    Also, got some wheels with DT350 hubs and shimano freehub at the rear. Don’t know what I’d need to do with that.

    Mind you, the spare forks are 150 Pikes. Not sure that’s in keeping with singlespeeding. I suppose I could set it firm to make it rigid-ish 😀 . Not sure I’m ready for full rigid yet. Just want to give singlespeed a go first.

    simondbarnes
    Member

    I’m guessing dropouts c & d from here…
    https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FSOOCNCSO/on-one-cnc-anodized-swap-out

    You won’t need a tensioner (or you could use a tensioner and keep your current dropouts)

    Wheel will be fine. You’ll need some cassette spacers, a cog and a lockring. Use the spacers to lineup the cog with your chainring.

    shermer75
    Member

    Controversially enough I actually prefer to use a vertical drop out and chain tensioner when single speeding because

    1) The chain tensioner takes care of the chain growth
    2) The disc brake rotor lines up with the caliper perfectly every time
    3) No faffing about getting the wheel back in the correct position after dealing with a puncture (see also 2)
    4) If you have mudguards (which I’m assuming you won’t!) the wheel drops out easily without needing to undo any bolts on the mudguard
    5) you don’t have to worry about the axle creeping forwards or backwards under pedaling or braking loads

    However you do lose that nice, clean look a singlespeed drivetrain has which is a shame!

    The On-One spacer and sprocket kit is really good

    https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/SKOOSSKK/on-one-singlespeed-converter-kit

    so you might as well get it if you are buying a new swap-out anyway, and if you decide to use a tensioner the On-One Doofer works fine

    https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FSOOSSD/on-one-doofer-singlespeed-chain-tensioner

    Most people go for a 32t and 16t or 32t and 18t drivetrain. Pretty much any chainring will do however the dedicated singlespeed chainrings do tend to last a bit longer, and look nicer!

    shermer75
    Member

    These chain rings are at a reasonable price also

    https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/CROOSS/on-one-stainless-chainring

    and they also do chain tugs (you can get away with only needing one, on the drive side, however if you have two it can (in theory!) help you to keep the correct alignment of the wheel when if you need to take it out for any reason. However I have found this never really works as well as you hope it would! I’m guessing it may be down to the chain growth.

    https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FSOOCT/on-one-chaintug

    Premier Icon kayla1
    Subscriber

    Vertical dropouts and a tensioner (stinger on the ISCG mounts in my case) make it a POP to get wheels in and out and keep it clean looking, plus the chain wraps further around the chainring making it even less likely to come off. 32-17 on 26″ here, which does most stuff I want it to. I’ve got some spares with fat slick-ish tyres on with a 16t cog on for when we potter out up the coast on the cycle path up to my mam’s, just undo the three bolts on the stinger and rotate it a smidge to tension the chain- everything else is where it needs to be because of the vertical dropouts 😀

    edit- if you’re going to give it a proper go, buy a 1x chainring (worn is fine) and a SS cog. The chainring doesn’t have to be SS but the cog pretty much has to be, geary stuff is designed to derail easily and it’s a PITA having to stop and refit the chain, again, because you’re too tight to spend a tenner on a SS cog 😆

    Premier Icon deadkenny
    Subscriber

    Cool. Thanks, good info here. Looks like On One have a good range of SS stuff too.

    Would a narrow/wide chainring work with a SS chain? Or just stick with a plain chainring. I think I’ve got one knocking around that might be a 32 and maybe not too worn. Replaced it to go N/W.

    I’ve got a DT RWS Thru Bolt also. I’d assume that would be okay with a horizontal dropout (and maybe even preferable over a skewer QR).

    core
    Member

    Get a wide base type cog for the rear if you’re using a cassette hub, stops them digging in so much, particularly handy if you plan on putting gears back on in the future.

    Also, a selection of narrow/different width spacers helps when it comes to getting the chain line bang on.

    No need for N/W as the chain should always be under fairly even tension with nowhere to go and a fixed chain line, but it won’t do any harm I don’t think. The chain you use will be dictated by the cog/chain ring width.

    Premier Icon kayla1
    Subscriber

    Narrow wide’s fine, that’s what I’ve got on mine cos it’s what I had kicking about. I’m using a 9sp chain, again cos I had it kicking around. SS is pretty forgiving really, as long as stuff is lined up ok you can just get on and ride the thing.

    shermer75
    Member

    Would a narrow/wide chainring work with a SS chain? Or just stick with a plain chainring. I think I’ve got one knocking around that might be a 32 and maybe not too worn. Replaced it to go N/W.

    I’ve got a DT RWS Thru Bolt also. I’d assume that would be okay with a horizontal dropout (and maybe even preferable over a skewer QR).

    Yes and yes! 🙂

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