I agree with the above.
I’m comfortable around a lathe and mill even hands close to spinning Chuck as its a big stationary machine (though my intro to the machine is “it’s designed to cut metal your fingers and hands are no threat to it”.
Had to use the mitre (so) saw last week took a few cuts to be comfortable with the blade spinning and kneeling in front of it.

Don’t want to be a pedant, but the Mafell and Makita track saws do not have riving knives, in fact many hand held of any price range do not, I have a couple of Mafell one with and one without , MT55 and KS, they are not the cheapest , I also have the Parkside and that does not have one , anyway the real danger is a table saw – definitely the worst thing to have if you ever make mistakes , plunge/track saw is the least dangerous of all as the blade is guarded and has a spring to put the guard in place.
OSB is not a material to have any human contact with – harsh and splintery, and costs the same as cheap plywood so unless you absolutely have to use it for a particular reason I wood(sic) avoid.

What about moisture resistant MDF, easy to cut but dusty, doesnt splinter,and a superior smooth finish compared to OSB.

and costs the same as cheap plywood

Where ? As I see it id have to come down to 9mm ply to get the cost comparuble to 18mm OSB…….

The joy of OSB compared to MDF is you can mount stuff directly …..tools/bikes/hooks etc

plunge/track saw is the least dangerous of all as the blade is guarded and has a spring to put the guard in place.

Also, you can set the depth that the blade comes out by using the stop. You can clamp the rail to the work piece. You can do a dry run of the cut without plunging (and ideally with the saw not plugged in). You can lock the plunge down and look from the side to double check your depth. Some saws have anti-kick back and the cheap Aldi/Scheppach one does have a riving knife.

That said they are a power tool and present an inherent risk. At the start of lockdown I was using mine to speed up cutting some pallets across the slats to make a temporary fence. Normally I use the saw with an MFT style bench top and clamps, dogs etc for cutting MDF, plywood and furniture board. But for the pallets I was just placing the rail on and cutting. On one cut the rail had moved slightly and the saw clipped a nail. This kicked the saw back off the rail and it gouged the rail. It could have been much worse. I immediately put the tracksaw away and got out the hand saw. Overall the job took about 10 mins longer, but was a lot safer. Lesson learned, sometimes power tools aren’t the solution.

I would say that non-plunging circular saws are terrifying in comparison to plunging track saws. I don’t like them

Where ?

18mm OSB is £16.85

18mm Shuttering ply is £16.80.

I think a lot of people have problems with circular saws as they tend to use them one handed. When they kick, its a lot easier to control them when you have them held properly.
Think about where you are standing, where the saw is going to go if it does kick back etc
Complacency is a big factor in accidents

I learned my less on with powertools when i plugged a brand new out of the box 4inch belt sander in.

Plugged it in and turned the socket on. The **** shot across the roof to full extent of the cable before crabbing sideways in a perfect arc.

It came out of the box with the trigger latched on!

Right, I haven’t bought a circular saw yet, or any other power tools.

I did have the wood delivered. Then my natural impatience took over and I decided to see what I could do with the only saw I have, a 300mm tenon saw.

Armed with a couple of clamps from Wilko and a long piece of scrap, I measured about 6 times and went for it.

It takes bloody ages to get through but I went slow and didn’t cock it up. I’ve managed to scrape some paint off the floor and the ceiling as they’re such a tight fit. They’re also a pig to handle on your own.

The problem I have now is that I can’t just whack them all up. I bought massive plugs designed for breezeblocks but the blocks are so soft that the plugs go in tight and then just spin loose. I decided to glue the first lot in with some Sikaflex (the only thing I had to hand) and that’s done the trick. The first board pulled nice and tight to the wall and feels solid. The second lot of plugs are in and drying now.

I’ll just cut one board a day after work then glue the next batch of plugs in. I’m not on a deadline so I’m not bothered. There’s also little to no chance of losing my fingers.

Tomorrow night I’ll be slicing board number 3, lining it up, drilling some ‘oles and gluing in the 3rd set of plugs.

Looks great. Nice one 😀👍

Handsaws eh? Whatever next…

I know, it might actually do me some good! I was sweating buckets on each board. 4 more to go. Oh, and I have a door frame to negotiate. Not thinking about that yet.

I did my shed earlier lockdown, same OSB method and cut with circular saw, at first with a guide then freehand no worries. Built a frame from 2×4 to attach them, makes it simple to fix stuff too. Given that yours is directly against the wall won’t you have the annoyance of drilling into the wall as well everytime you affix things?

Have you accounted for expansion?

18mm OSB is £16.85

18mm Shuttering ply is £16.80.

Handy. Entirely the wrong end of the country though and won’t deliver. Prices round me (outside of the big sheds) seem to be 35 a sheet for OSB and 40 for ply.