How long does Stans Sealant actually last?
Noobie tubeless question….
I’ve just received my Stans ZTR Crest wheels and used the Hope/Stans kit to setup as tubeless (**** ME it was hard work getting NobbyNic 2.1 UST tyres on the rims!!!!!!!). Inflated fine, sealant in, still inflated, job done.
Anyway, on the Stans sealant bottle, it says “will stay in liquid form for 2-7 months”. Does this mean every 2-7 months I have to refill with sealant? If yes, do I need to remove tyre and clean out old sealant? Is it nearer 2 months or 7 (or 12-24?!?!). Etc, etc, etc 🙂
Thanks in advance,Posted 4 years ago
IME it lasts longer in winter than in summer.
Rode the same tyre all through the winter, no problems, Started getting non-sealing punctures in summer tyre after about 5 months. When I went to change it the sealant had separated into a thin milky residue and a weird little ball of stuff that looked like a natural sponge.Posted 4 years agoNorthwindSubscriber
Yeah, it can be a bit variable (I’ve a feeling it’s partly down to the tyres, certainly seems to make the coral stuff more in kendas than in specializeds frinstance, but that’s maybe just coincidence). By and large it lasts the life of a tyre for me, or the tyre gets changed first.Posted 4 years agobigjimSubscriber
It seems to be very variable, but I can’t figure out what makes it turn to water and coral. I changed a tyre that had been on about 2 months recently and there was just a little watery fluid and some stan’s coral, but I’ve had viable fluid after much longer than that. I think non tubeless specific tyres perhaps let it evaporate more. If I run low pressures i find a lot of the sealant ends up dry around the bead, presumably from the tyre coming near burping.Posted 4 years agothisisnotaspoonMember
About 5 months, sometimes more, sometimes less, a top up costs less than a tube anyway, and I’d get through a lot of tubes in 5 months! Strip out as much of the gunk as possible.
CO2 seems to cause it to ‘curdle’ relly quickly (guess as it’s acidic), no need to wory about sourcing nitrogen, the air is 80% N2 and oxygen’s neutral too. There’s reasons race cars use N2 but they’re mainly things like saftey in fires (a tyre full of nitrogen in a fire might put itself out when it pops rather than feed air to the fire) and controling moisture content (as by definition bottled N2 is dry). Seeing as bikes arent subject to either problem then it’s an expensive waste!
(**** ME it was hard work getting NobbyNic 2.1 UST tyres on the rims!!!!!!!).
Get the bead into the centre of the rim and start opposite the valve (which would prevent the bead being in the center if you started there). Using tyre levers etc makes damaging the tyre-bead or stretching it more likley and therefore less likely to form a reliable seal with the rim.Posted 4 years ago
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