First off, an apology. I shamefully fancy having a go at taking some mbr-esque remote flash pictures. Can't help it I am afraid. Thing is, I already have an external flash that attaches to the hot shoe. Do I need to get a new remote flash, or could I use the current flash and get a trigger that would sit on the hot shoe, and remote to a 2nd hot shoe, to which I could then attach my current flash?
As you can tell I am a tad confused, any help is greatly appreciated.
What's the camera?
Does it have an internal flash?
What's the external flash gun?
Does it have a method of being a remote flash unit and the camera's built-in flash then becomes the master?
It might have another way too. Does it have a light sensitive cell that can pick up anther's flash and so be triggered remotely? The Nikon SB 26 etc have, so you don't need a Nikon as such to trigger it, even a compact will do it as long as the flash output is strong enough for the SB to see it.
Or buy an interconnecting cable or something like a Flash Wizard perhaps?
If your flash can be a slave, then its possible. Or if you are using Nikon, its probably possible (what gear are you using?)
Otherwise you want a sync cord (the limitation is fairly obvious) or triggers (pocket wizards if you are loaded, cactus triggers if you are not)
I use Nikon, and the SB 600 800 and 900 are all wirelessly controllable, from a D70 and up or more recent. Not sure about previous models. The joy of that is full TTL metering, no messing about with manual flash outputs, and you can add flash exposure compensation for groups of flashes in the camera. Bloomin marvellous. It lets me do this sort of stuff…
The camera is a Cannon 350D and the flash gun a Jessop AFCD300. The flash gun just screws in to the hot shoe, I don't believe it can act as a slave on its own. Ie. it only works through the hot shoe connection. Basically could I be a super cheap skate and just get the remote triggers, or would it be a case of getting a trigger and flash combo?
Yeah, I got some Cactus triggers quite cheaply. Make sure you get the new version (V4??) as it's better than the older ones and no more expensive. I got mine HERE which was cheaper than Ebay.
I use a Vivitar 285hv flash with mine. Fully manual and tough as old boots, but all you have to do is select the power and set the flash up. Not hard, after a bit of practice.
I like to keep mine looking as natural as possible. I don't like to see where the flash is coming from like the one in the forest above personally and the Vivitar is brilliant for this set at 1/4 power. It also recycles a LOT faster at lower power, as fast as my 400D can soot, put it that way!
I've found in my limited time using it that WHERE you put the flash is most important. On the floor is generally a bit crap. You get shadows of arms over people's faces! (You can see a bit of that in the top pic, I had the flash as high up as I could get it!) I'm trying to get it at about shoulder height. I've got a little folding tripod with a velcro strap so I can mount the flash on a tree or on a bike to get it higher. The flash reciever isn't big enough to sit on the floor and hold the flash upright anyway
I've been practicing doing portraits of MrsPP at home as well. Very soft, low power flash from various angles, bounced off the ceiling etc. It's coming together slowly.
I'm no great photographer, but I know what I like. I prefer everything manual and simple, than I can make adjustments myself and see what effect they have. I also love learning new stuff….! 😀
The Infer red system used in the Nikon flashes and some cameras I've never really got on with. Very hit and miss and outdoors you can forget it completely. I used the Pocket Wizard system as it just works, ok it is expensive, and slightly cumbersome due to being an extra box to add to your camera and flash but I don't want excuses just results thanks nikon.