[Closed] calling all 2x9 or 2x10ers -- any regrets?

My bash ring gets far too much abuse for me to want to use a dedicated 2x set up.....

i recently bought a new charge duster with 2x10 gearing (my last bike had 3x9) to be honest am loving the new layout.i reckon that i use a lot more of the rear gears,than with previous bike.also you only loose the lowest/highest gear ratios so 99% of your 3x9 is still there (as you can use the whole cassette) am sticking to 2x10 from now on (also easier to clean chainset) 😀

I use 2x9. I've never used anything else, so there's no regrets. If I'm ever spinning out in top gear, I don't wish I had a third chain ring, I just wish I had a trail to ride instead of a road!!

22.36 on both my bikes.

I find that the gaps between gears is worse on a 36 than 32. this is particularly bad on hg61 12-36 cassette.

#EDIT: don't feel a lack of high gears though

I went 2 x 9 but regretted not going 1x9 sooner!

i'm using 2x9 for about 6 months now, no regrets at all. Maybe if i had to ride much on the road to get to trails with people that ran 3x9 i might be a little slow, but i don't. Benefits are, you run a tighter chain so it will drop less often and greater clearance. Will be going to 1x9 at some point soon.

What about low gears? ever miss the lowest ones in technical stuff? spend more time out of the saddle on uphills?

Pah...go 1x10 with a 36t cassette & man up y'girl. 🙂

why not just start fell running. . . 🙂

My lowest is 22-34. I can ride up walls in that gear!

What about low gears?

not missing any on my set up.

Running 26-39 at the front with a 12-36 at the back (stock set up on my Whyte 905).

Was a bit worried about the lack of low gears as I had been experimenting with steeper and steeper uphills, but any I cleared with a 22-24 I've also cleaned with a 26-36, and frankly it felt easier and more controlled. Maybe the geo/weight of the new bike helping, or just a considerable amount mroe road miles in between. Either way not missing low gears.

Not missing the high gears yet but have entered the Selkirk marathon this weekend and remember finishing it last time chasing someone down on a long flat section in my biggest gear, so hope I don't end up thrashing along in a 39-12 this time!

I regret bothering with it before I went to 1x9.

GB

24/36 and 11-34 is spot on for me - never ran out of high gears offroad and the low gears are no different to before. I'd never go back to a triple unless I was going to be doing a lot of road linking sections and even then I'm not sure I'd bother.

Basically, 3 chainrings is for birds!!

new world? been agood few years now...

don't miss high on trail, just occasionally on road as mentioned.

don't miss low unless steep pinches at end of long ride; but i'd probably hurt or walk if I had a lower gear too, so no drama.

Overall, the only issue I have is when i spend a prolonged period off the bike, then it can be hard work up the climbs for a ride or two.

28,38x11-34, 9spd fwiw

27/40 on the front here with 11-34 on the back.

Very nice - never used the big ring at the front anyway and 27/34 on the back is very spinny - I would only want more on the type of slope where you would need to stand to manage your weight distribution anyway, which would then mean I wouldn't have used those gears anyway.

I still think 2x8 might be have been better as the 8 speed chains cope with mud better.

No they don't!

Just as 10 speed works just fine in mud.

None, best move I made on my bike.

Been using 2x9 on my bikes for a while now, just changed on one of them to 1x9 and wish I had earlier (34 front - 11-34 rear). Not so fast on fireroad descents but that doesnt really matter unless you are racing and I have a bike for that.

I've gone 27/40 - 11/32 and it's been great round the Surrey Hills. Was worried that I might struggle on the trip to Wales 2 weeks ago but it was perfectly fine

No they don't!

yes they do - they clear mud easier and they don't feel (as much) like you are grinding your drive train to hell.

yes they do

oh no they don't!! 😆

2x10 39/26 with 11-36 on my Scott Spark and never run out of gears for up or down. Rarely come out of the big ring either tbh

TurnerGuy - Member

No they don't!

yes they do - they clear mud easier and they don't feel (as much) like you are grinding your drive train to hell.

I'll leave it after this but having been through 7/8/9/10 speed and the claims at every jump that they wouldn't cope as well, this simply isn't the real world result.

oh no they don't!!

and your evidence for this is - how many winters riding on 8 speed do you have under your belt and how many years 9 speed?

It can't be much for clubber as he is only 21 - he has probably never ridden 8 speed...

this simply isn't the real world result

it simply is - the narrower chains hang on to the mud more and consequently grind the drive train more than eight speed used to.

Maybe you just don't go out if it is too muddy?

It can't be much for clubber as he is only 21

You didn't believe that did you 🙂

As I said, I've been through 7/8/9/10, used through the year and as it goes in proper muddy conditions. I've worn out several drivetrains. Never found that 8 lasted worse than 7 (obviously since they're basically the same), 9 worse than 8 or 10 worse than 9. I don't know anyone who's actually found different though I do know plenty of people who claim it despite sticking on 8 speed and never having actually tried 9 or 10...

good stuff all, going to go for it.
anyone know if middleburn does a 26 - 39 set-up for the front? the 27 - 40 looks to be their standard

well with 8 speed I never remember having to stop and empty my drink bottle out over the chain to make it ridable again, and the bridleways I would ride would be turned into deep mud pools by the local horses.

Plus the grinding feeling appears to be much worse.

Once I had changed to middleburn chainrings and an XT 8 speed cassette plus regular chain replacement I managed several years without changing the drivetrain, but that hasn't been the case with 9 speed.

I think 26-39 would be too close to 27-40 for middleburn to bother.

Why do people constantly overanalyse things on here, just try it FFS!

You are losing a chainring not a testicle 🙄

Chucked the big ring on all my bikes due to lack of use and too much grinding it against rocks/roll ins. 22/32 normally but on my xc bike 22/36 all with an 11-32 cassette. Only problem is the amount of time I spend in granny on my xc bike, (36x32 is just a bit tall for hills) so more front shifting and faster wear on chain/granny.

RE 26-39 setup I thought SRAM patented that well the 1.5:1 front ring ratio anyway.

I thought SRAM patented that well the 1.5:1 front ring ratio anyway.

how can they give a patent for that - jeez

That'll be a US patent if it really was patented. You can patent just about anything there even if it's evidently not new or even sensible to patent.

phew - I was worried about being spotted riding around in that ratio by some SRAM employee

Stupid question - will a normal triple front mech cope OK with a 13-14 tooth jump between two chainrings if used with 2x9, or would I need a double-specific one?

Andy

22/36 on the front with an 11-28 cassette.. which was great until I moved to a different area.. now I really wish that I had an 11-34 cassette..

Yes, it'll be fine. I had a triple mech doing 36-22. Only changed to a double-specific because I changed frame (different pull).

I run 22 / 36 chainrings with standard triple mechs with no issues

Apparently you might be able to lose some weight by running a road double front mech.

Shifting's not as good though IME - I used a Dura Ace 7800 one for a while.

I liked 2x9 (over the years I used 32/44, 30/42 and 28/40, all with 11-34) and 2x10 (28/42 and 30/42 with 11-36), but prefer 1x10 (36t, 11-36). Would probably still run a double on a less racey bike, but would never go back to a triple. IMO a 22t chainring is useless, you have so little momentum.

njee20

Depends on if you are old and fat and like climbing big hills - got any big hills where you are?

I run 22 / 36 chainrings with standard triple mechs with no issues

+1

On two different bikes: one with a mid-cage and Gamut double guide, the other with a long cage. Sus and hardtail, both running 120mm+ forks.

In anywhere with decent hills the 22 will get used regularly.

Hmmm, will stick with my triple & bash here 🙂

Depends on if you are old and fat and like climbing big hills - got any big hills where you are?

Well it's not so much 'big' that's the issue here, as 'steep', and yes, I have steep climbs that I've never seen anyone clear in a 22-34 type low gear, but have done so in a higher gear. Momentum is your friend.

If you're on a big bike and are unfit then I can see the merit, but that still won't help if you need a bit of grunt to get over some roots (for example) where a bit of momentum is key, you'll just end up walking. I can happily show you a hill on my local route where that's the case.

I did say IMO, that is based on me being fairly fit and riding a light bike. I can't think of a single hill, anywhere, that I've not been able to ride with a 28t (and thus far none with a 36) that I could with a 22. YMMV.

I run 2x9 on some bikes and 3x9 on others. It seems ideal on some of the bikes I do use it on (e.g. Enduro, BFe) where I don't miss the big ring at all, but I'm sure it wouldn't work on a bike like my Epic where I tend to use the big ring a lot. My Soul is on 2x9 at the moment but I'm thinking about going back to 3x9 on it as I do find I miss the big ring a bit plus running in 36x11 a lot seems to cause a fair bit of clanking from the back with the chain slapping about on the chainstays.

Why not go for a double with bigger rings? Like 26/39 as the OP is after. Best of both worlds (or worst, depending on you!).

Part of me finds it odd, as you would think with advancements in bikes people would be climbing steeper hills, and going faster down them 😉
But I accept it may be suited to more focussed bikes.

Well back in the day a standard chainset often had a 28t granny, with a 28 on the cassette, so 1:1, which is still taller than many people are running on a single ring set up.

Downhill terrain is getting harder, so pedalling at 40mph is less relevant - look at an early 90s DH event - it's a fireroad!

Njee -ah well - I can take you to plenty of hills where a 22 tooth ring is of decided use - you know - long steep hills. Ones you cannot just blast up with momentum but require grinding your way up.

It all depends on where you ride

No regrets at all. The only time I ever wish I had a big ring is on tarmac or fireroad descents and frankly, who cares? You can still pedal to a decent pace on 36T. OTOH there's been plenty of times when I've tagged the bashring hard enough to be [i]very[/i] glad I didn't have a big ring on.

I run 9spd 22-36 with a bash & SLX dbl f/mech. Sometimes doesnt want to drop into the granny but that could be wear & tear / not quite right set up.

Triple rings are for losers.

Njee -ah well - I can take you to plenty of hills where a 22 tooth ring is of decided use - you know - long steep hills. Ones you cannot just blast up with momentum but require grinding your way up.

It all depends on where you ride

And how fit you are, which is more relevant. I'm not talking about never doing anything more than a 30 second sprint, I grind up hills, I can just grind up them in a 36. Margam Park had a whisker under 1000ft of climbing in 4 miles, I did 4 laps of that without having to walk once.

It's hard to grasp I know, but there's a chance I'm just stronger than you. Like I say, people didn't used to have a 22t chain ring, and they still rode up hills. **gasp**

Edit: and like I say, I'll happily take you to a local hill I have where a 22/34 gear has yet to serve any use for anyone - people have either cleaned it in a bigger gear, or not at all. Even though it's only about 20ft that's actually difficult to ride.

I thought by switching to 40/27 with an 11-34 cassette all you lose over 44/32/22 and 11/32 is a gear off the bottom & one off the top?

Andy

I thought by switching to 40/27 with an 11-34 cassette all you lose over 44/32/22 and 11/32 is a gear off the bottom & one off the top?

Basically yes, which is why I don't really get why so many people feel a 22 is so necessary.

Like you can never be too thin or two rich you can never have too low a gear. I'd like a 20 tooth chainring

Its more like two off the bottom is it not anyway?

Your frame maybe important too - noticeably less bob and feedback on some single pivots in the middle ring. Not like you wouldn't get used to it, but maybe it'd bug you.

22/28 (ie one cog down on an 11-32) = 0.79
27/34 = 0.79

Obviously 22/34 is lower, then it's more like 1.5 gears lost at the bottom end, but depends how much you use that. Again [b]personally[/b] and I'll put that in bold so you don't take it as a blanket rule, I think such low gears aren't useful, I've not had a gear that low for 6 years and I've not missed it once, at all, anywhere. Again; YMMV.

I'll leave it after this but having been through 7/8/9/10 speed and the claims at every jump that they wouldn't cope as well, this simply isn't the real world result.

My personal experience is that 7-speed cassettes and chains take longer to clog up when it's really muddy. I also find that the indexing needs adjusting less frequently.

Its more like two off the bottom is it not anyway?

In terms of gear ratios, assuming all else is the same:

22F 32R = 0.6785

22F 28R = 0.7857

26F 34R = 0.7647

27F 34R = 0.7941

So the bottom gear on 2x9 with a 26t or 27t inner is much the same as the second bottom on 3x9 with a 22t granny.

Even with 26F 36R (as some 2x10 setups will allow) it's still 0.7222 so not as low as 22F/32R.

Andy

ermm- I use a 11/34 casettee

Good for you, as above then it's more like 1.5 gears lost. A lot of people use 11-32s though, there are other people on this planet, a difficult concept I know 🙄

I will definitely look you up if I'm in Edinburgh riding, I want to find these climbs that cannot be conquered by anyone unless you have a 22/34, do you have a GPS course of any of these beasts?

njee, why are you so intent on putting words into TJ's mouth? Disagree with what he's said if you like, but don't just make things up, it only reflects badly on you.

Maybe some of us prefer lower cadence pedalling too

CBA reading all responses, but

calling all 2x9 or 2x10ers -- any regrets?

One - that I used triples for so long. Won't go back ever.

njee, why are you so intent on putting words into TJ's mouth? Disagree with what he's said if you like, but don't just make things up, it only reflects badly on you.

Because of statements like this:

I can take you to plenty of hills where a 22 tooth ring is of decided use

and this:

Ones you cannot just blast up with momentum but require grinding your way up

The over riding point is being ignored, and that is that different things work for different people, it's not about where you ride, some folk are stronger, some are happy to grind it out, some are spinners. I just dislike TJs 'pah, I'll show you some real hills' type attitude, assuming the over riding issue is that I never see anything bigger than a speed bump, whereas the reality is we're just different riders, and our local riding is a long way down the list of relevant factors.

I have caveated everything with IMO/YMMV, as I always do on things like this, and yet TJ often seems to argue, for a change.

I'd like a 20 tooth chainring

I have one spare. You're not having it though 😉

What you said was: "I will definitely look you up if I'm in Edinburgh riding, I want to find these climbs that cannot be conquered by anyone unless you have a 22/34"

TJ has said no such thing as you admit.

njee - I'm only teasing.

there are a few folk I ride with and most of them use use a 22 granny ring - You can proabably outclimb me in your middle ring being younger and fitter - however for me gears from 2 - 25 mph are what I need - and thats 22/ 36 chainrings, 11/34 casette.

Of course you can grind uphill at a really low cadence in a higher gear if you are fit enough - me I ride for fun.

Your local riding makes a huge differnce as well - some of the highland climbs you can be climbing for an hour plus easily

A fine example of the Edinburgh defence 🙂

If I'm out on a ride, and not worrying about what people on a forum think, I often take it very leisurely in my 22t gear. Unlike TJ I also enjoy going fast downhill 🙂 And Monsieur Shimano has us all catered for. Vive la difference!

I'm relatively young but not that light* and not that fit** and prefer to save my legs for the downs - thus 36/22 11-34 works very well for me. I stay in the 36 most of the time but I've yet to have a ride where I don't appreciate the easiness of the 22 at some point.

*ie probably lighter than the average man but not a skinny cyclist type...
**ie not an amateur XC racer but quite fit compared to most of the populace!

Why so many anti triple views? I'm over 40. I ride infrequently but it does usually involve riding up some awfy big hills. I like having a 22/34 in the cupboard even if it is only used on the steepest bits or if the legs are failing. I like riding downhill quite quickly without the chain rattling off the swingarm or stays 'cos the cage spring can't keep tension on bumpy ground. Having a 44T ring to wrap the chain round keeps things quiet.

Do like the idea of a 1 x 9 for winter use or moderate terrain though.

I prefer two rings up front anyway. My XC bike is 2x9 and my AM bike is only 3x9 by virtue of the fact that the SLX triple chainset came with the bike.

As soon as I can warrant the expense, it'll be a double and bash with a chain device.

A 22/34 combination is bloody spinny and slow though, so (as njee implies) you need severely good balance skills to be able to use it on the type of slope that might require it.

I went to a 27 in my double because I thought that if I came to a hill that steep I would likely be out of the saddle trying to manage my weight distribution over the bike and keep a little more speed up than if I was spinning 22/34.

The 22/34 combination is the type where, if you have to dab, you are unlikely to get started again as the forward momentum is so low.

you need severely good balance skills to be able to use it on the type of slope that might require it

Nah, not really. You're right that it's hard to get started again if you stop in a steep bit though.

turner - I don't find it so - even riding at 2 mph its no issue and restarting is fine

downsp - if yo shorten the chain it don't flap around on a 36 and that can be peddaled to high 20s mph which is quick enough for me offroad - just ocasionally I spin out on the road or long forestry descents. Its nice to have the extra ground clearance

well - I did the Bearded Man 3 day on my triple thinking about all of this

fitness wise - well I'm nowhere near Njee from what I gather. I am 46 and 15 1/2 stone. I finished sort of mid pack in probably a fairly decent field

So - no I didn't use my 22/34 much, but a few times it allowed me to grab an easy gear, spin wildly and get up a steep bit which otherwise would have been a dismount 50 m push and remount

and I used my 42 / 11 and 42 / 13 (I think) quite a lot on the long descents, rather than spinning madly

I like the idea od 1 x 10 as you lose a shifter and mech, but personally I'd struggle climbing. 2 x 10 I could get away with I think (say 24 / 36 with 11 - 36?) but you don't lose much in the way of bits and pieces so it looks a pretty pricey upgrade