Side point, what deos ‘torque compatible’ in the new Boost Rockshox forks mean?

I could accept 15mm as the replacement for QR, compared to QR on a fork with tabs it’s arguably quicker to fit, more solid connection, less chance of wheel being ejected and most hubs are convertable with end caps/axles.
15×110 can bugger off tho, there is already a big bike standard, 20mm, no need to invent a new one and WTF have sram gone along with it? They already had maxle lite.

daftness.

The trigger’s broom approach to keeping a bike long term only really makes sense if the parts you’re replacing are crap though. It used to be that you would buy a bike for the quality of the frame, and perhaps put up with less than top drawer components, replacing them as they wore out. Increasingly now you can buy a bike that you’d be hard pushed to “need” to replace anything on, as the quality of componentry has got better. Who would choose to replace their 2015 SLX rear mech with a 1995 XTR one? very few I’d suspect

whereas I’m not a fan of marketing lead “improvements” I’m happier to buy a complete bike, that doesn’t necessarily need 3rd party “improved” parts to make it perform adequately, and hence I’d be less worried about move away from the need for standards.

Surely just more reasons to only buy hubs that are easily converted to the many standards – Hope’s?

HT is either 15mm and 20mm front (20mm 36’s, 15mm Revs and 20mm Reba’s) with 9mm QR rear.
FS is on 15mm front (15mm 32’s and Pikes) with a 142×12 rear.

And 5 sets of Hope hubbed wheels.

I may be missing something but given that 110 > 100 won’t it be possible to just fit different (wider) end caps to something like a hope hub and it’ll still fit in the fork? Granted you won’t get the apparent benefit of the wider flanges but it should still fit?

What am I missing?

Who would choose to replace their 2015 SLX rear mech with a 1995 XTR one? very few I’d suspect

eh? what about the people who’ve got a few years old but good frame with good parts but need X component coz it’s broken/worn out? Sell the bike (for bugger all 2nd hand value) and buy a new one? Yes new bikes give you a pretty good discount on the complete package but if you shop around you can get parts for a similar price without having to spring for a brand new bike. Stupid new standards screw that up.

What am I missing?

disc/wheel alignment? space out both sides and your disc is in the wrong place*, space just the none disc side and your tyre is offcentre.

*No idea if disc calliper slots are wide enough to cover this or not

15mm / 20mm nonsense really pissed me off.

What the hell was wrong with 20mm. Fox just spat the dummy and decided to invent a new standard that was worse than the existing standard.

110 x 15 can **** right off as well

disc/wheel alignment? space out both sides and your disc is in the wrong place*, space just the none disc side and your tyre is offcentre.

Ah. Knew there had to be something.

Boost has annoyed me too. But I suspect my next bike will have it, because I’ll be buying a new bike in about 2 years. Then, when I buy my next bike after that, it’ll have something else.

When I got into mountain biking my bikes had the same BB, wheel size, axle and headtube standards from about 1998 when I started until 2010 or so when I got my first 20mm fork. 12 years (more like 18-20 if you include the time before I started riding) of perfectly acceptable standards. I ran these on a rigid hardtail right up to 160mm full suspension bikes and all worked perfectly acceptably for me as a normal bike rider.

Then in 2012 I got a bike with an integrated tapered headset. Which was a faff, because it took some thought to find bearings for after however many years of external 1 1/8″. I couldn’t just go into a shop the day my headset died and buy a new one.

Then in 2013 I got another new bike and practically nothing is backwards compatible. 15mm front axle, 12mm rear, pressfit BB, a different tapered integrated headset standard, a bolt on front mech standard (should I use a front mech). Does any of it bring me any benefit? No, I can’t say I rattle down a hillside thinking “you know, that bottom bracket that wears out ever 5 minutes is really improving this”. Did it mean I had a hell of a time finding a new rear wheel on the day my riding holiday started last year when the old one’s freehub exploded? Yes. And that was properly annoying, and cost me a lot more money because no cheap off the shelf stand in was available. I couldn’t borrow parts from my mates because they all have different wheel sizes, axle standards etc.

The worst thing is that a lot of these standards overlap. 500 odd headset types for an internal tapered headtube. At least 4 different oversized pressfit BB standards I can think of. And don’t get me started on standards being introduced when we already have good ones- 15mm axles when 20mm already existed, and especially boost 15×110 when 20mm already exists, 148mmx12 when 157mmx12 already exists, 35mm bars when 31.8mm already exists. Why not just one standard, or possibly two (a light one, eg QRs, and a strong one, eg 20mm bolt through)?

It’s rubbish and it ought to stop, but most people go into a shop, buy a complete bike and don’t care what the standards mean. So it’ll continue forever.

Sram launch 148 Boost cranks that don’t work with 142mm hubs?

3 bloody mm each side makes that much of a difference?

Big gains for poofy 29ers

I had pretty much decided to buy a new bike. I wont bother now.

Of course they will work. The chainline will be a sprocket or two down the block of course but like you say, what’s 3mm between friends? Also, you don’t need a Boost specific crankset for a Boost rear end. Any 1x crankset will be fine and most doubles too (depending on ring sizes). Triples are asking for trouble but still…

disc/wheel alignment? space out both sides and your disc is in the wrong place*, space just the none disc side and your tyre is offcentre.
*No idea if disc calliper slots are wide enough to cover this or not

5mm (or less, assuming tolerance in caliper mounts) offset spacer between the rotor and the hub with longer bolts or an offset spider ? One for Superstar…

if it’s sram bits and bobs, It’ll be a bit shite and I wouldn’t consider buying them anyway.

if it’s sram bits and bobs, It’ll be a bit shite and I wouldn’t consider buying them anyway.

You might not but the OEM guys will because of the discounts available. This means that it will probably be forced upon us – even if you don’t buy complete bikes, the smaller frame manufacturers will follow suit.

It’s not in their interest to ensure backward compatibility is it? They just want to extract as much money as possible.