I’ve got nice feeling brakes and they work great but would like a bit more adjustment on lever travel.
I have Bled from the lever down (traditional way) bled from the calliper up.
Rotated the lever down, topped up fluid.
But no difference.
What’s your ONE top tip for these brakes?

I guess the ONE tip is to sell them and buy XT

Did you pump the lever when you tilted lever down before topping up , if so can’t help

Did you make sure the bite point screw was all the way out before you bled them?

http://www.hopetech.com/page.aspx?itemID=SPG141

Check the BPC and Reach before you bleed

Hi Soap

Bleeding Hope Tec brakes is little different from bleeding any Hope brakes. I have done lots of cars so bikes are pretty easy….

I have never bled them ‘bottom up’ that seems a strange thing to do – probably involving syringes etc

Get a nice fitting nipple spanner (small ring etc)& a tight fitting length of clear plastic tube. I also have a small glass jar with some older fluid already in it – to avoid air being sucked into the imersed tube.

I adjust the angle of the brake on the handle bar (& pos swivel the steering) so that the resovoir is horizontal. Make sure its always topped up. Use Dot4 or Dot5 but dont mix them. If you are not sure whats in it – use enough fluid to push the old stuff out. I think Hope recommend 4.

Pumping the lever is good as it builds up pressure – then open the bleed valve whilst holding the lever compressed. Lock off the nipple before releasing the lever. You might need to do this several times to get all the air out BUT dont allow the fluid level to drop too low as air will be pushed into the system again.

You are supposed to ‘peel’ the gasket back on – which I try to do but always top the resovoir up to the brim so that the gasket & top displaces the fluid – onto the surrounding rags.

Thats what I do and I am sure others may have some additional tips.
The Tec brakes are extremely adjustable with bite point etc.

You may be doing this already – but hopefully this may help.

Johnhighfield has it bang on, all bar the fluid, Hope use 5.1 as standard. That procedure is how I was shown to do it many years ago by Hope and never had a bad bleed.

For my Tech M4’s after doing all of the above I refit the pads (and set them up as per Hope instructions)and go for a ride. After that ride I re-do the extra bit with the lever and top up the reservoir again. I find that once the pistons are in their riding position, rather than pushed fully back for bleeding there is room for a little extra fluid. This gives the brake a very strong bite and plenty of adjustment.

Pretty much covered above. Follow the Tech video exactly and the diaphragm rolling video and you can’t go wrong. Key points are to screw the BPA all the way out before starting, and tapping the hose and/or reservoir during the pointing down bit.

When you’ve done, screw the BPA all the way in, then back out 3-4 clicks. Then set your reach adjust. The BPA really works, and the reach will give you anything from right to the bars to unreachable

Just remember the tech is slightly different to bleed at the last bit , re fasten up tilt down, pump straighten up and retop up

Could you clarify on what you mean by more adjustment?
If your using a V2 and want the lever to bite further from the bar then you can remove the wheel and pump the lever a couple of times to bring the pads closer together. This is what i did with mine and it worked a treat.
All V2’s are like that as the pistons are spaced further apart to accommodate the vented rotors.
If that is not what you were after then ignore this reply 🙄

Always make sure the rotor is centered in the caliper and the pads have the same travel when applying the brakes. If the rotor is not in the middle i think the performance drops off.