Bangernomics – What do you always check?
The other thing I don’t get, this has happened 3 times this week with different people, I’ll ask ‘where’d you get the car from’ ‘well, you see, my mate has a garage and gives me first option on any part-ex’s so I buy them off him and sell them on’
Is the garage selling dodgy stuff out the back door or making more keeping it off the books?Posted 4 years agotrail_ratMember
i buy off my mate at the garage
my last buy was given in leiu of payment when the owner died after having alot of work done on the car.
my mates garage doesnt run on cars – he needs cash to pay the bills, i needed a car so i exchanged it for folding.
What i do know though is that he wouldnt knowingly sell me shite – my family give him alot of business. – ok i wont win every time there are things that even he wont be able to predict but so far buying from him ive come out well .Posted 4 years agomaccruiskeenSubscriber
Is the garage selling dodgy stuff out the back door or making more keeping it off the books?
The seller needs a bluff story because they are a trader (buying and selling cars for profit with the responsibilities to the seller and the tax man that entails) posing as a private seller. A garage can sell to anyone they like ‘mates’ or otherwise. You’re asking where they got the car because you’re presumably expecting that they are the owner of the car rather than a dealer in cars. Traders should clearly declare themselves as traders because the deal with you (sale of goods act) is different than it is with a genuine private seller (a straight buyer beware with no comeback). Because they are trading the the log book will have someone elses name on or they will only have been the keeper for a short while so they need to give some blarney to explain that awayPosted 4 years ago
Need to replace my current MOT failure cheap, looking at a small engine £500-650 or under, if possible trying to get a couple of years out of it so more than the next mot.
I use the bike daily for work and only need the car to get to races on the weekend, therefore I’m not that keen on a wedge of cash sat out the front of the house rusting away.
My last car was a ’96 micra brought off a mate so minimum rip-off protection was needed, I’m pretty clueless with cars on the whole.
Fair to say any car that price is going to have problems, whats the obvious stuff you look for?
I know Nissans have the front cross member rust fault.Posted 4 years ago
Mayo under the oil caps?
Rust on arches / sills
Test drive to see if it steers straightmatt_outandaboutSubscriber
As above: try to buy privately; judge the person you are buying off; look at car condition; look at how much (and how nicely) the history has been kept.Posted 4 years ago
I bought a beauty a few years back – we were at a dealers to look at a Fiesta, and next to it was a shiny Mazda 323. In enquired, and it was owners wifes current car, had been left by a customer who had stopped driving and car needed a service & MOT. On the passenger seat was a date ordered file of 13 years history, all in one female name at one address. Nothing, but nothing did not work on it.
We drove it for a year/6000miles it cost 1 punctured tyre and an MOT. Sold it for £50 more than we paid to first person who saw it. 8)
mazda323 by matt_outandabout, on Flickrtakisawa2Subscriber
If the price to me is ok then I’m not too fussed wether they are a trader, but it’s usually apparent straight away anyway. Usual common sense approach, do the docs match up etc. Mechanically, it’s not the minefield it was in the 70’s/80’s, with big ends, piston rings, rotten chassis etc. These days it’s big bills your looking to avoid, injectors / DMF’s on TDCi Mondeo’s for example. Just look up the usual faults on Honest John etc.Posted 4 years agobearnecessitiesSubscriber
Oooh, cars…the tip about tyres is bang on.
Sold it for £50 more than we paid to first person who saw it
In 2004 I bought an E30 325i SE for £825. A year later I sold it for £1800.
2 months later the head cracked.
The some lunatic bought it and put a 2.7 Alpina engine in it.
Another 2 months later and it was wrapped around a tree.
Doesn’t help you, but cars are odd. Buy according to the seller, not the car, would be my advice.Posted 4 years agob rMember
12 months MOT is the key, and does it drive ok.
tbh The last thing I worry about is the size of the engine, or what mpg it’ll do – and bigger cars are on the whole usually built better plus have more equipment/safety.
Also understand what matters (MOT, brakes, tyres etc) and what doesn’t (interior, dints/marks etc).Posted 4 years agobutcherMember
I looked around for a Micra a while back. Searched high and low, and eventually came to the conclusion that you have to be lucky to get one at a good price. They’re like hot cakes, and the cheaper ones generally aren’t so hot… If there are any good deals, they tend to get snapped up by traders within the hour, then readvertised the same day at twice the price…really boils my….
Bigger cars go much cheaper, which might make more sense if you’re mainly using it to travel about on weekends, particularly for long jaunts. As with the Micras, 90s Japanese motors are usually pretty sturdy when looked after. Look up the common faults, but more often than not you can tell if the seller is being genuinely honest. Ask about servicing and stuff and get an idea for how they’ve treated the car.Posted 4 years agomuddodgerMember
I’ve just got really lucky on this, Renault Kangoo, 02 reg around 60k? service history says 38k in ’08 but dash says 18, so presuming it’s had issues somewhere with ECU!Posted 4 years ago
Bought off my wife’s boss for £200, 3/4 of a tank of petrol and MOT ’til Dec, and the best bit… it’s a converted disability version so can easily get bikes in it, no issues with taking wheels off. £10 for a quick clean by the local ‘car cleaners’ and it’s a peach!unknownSubscriber
Go for something truly unfashionable. I’m currently driving a G reg Peugeot 205 Automatic that cost me £280. Go base model for less things to go wrong and my golden rule is be prepared to leave it at the side of the road when it breaks. That said if you want to keep it for a while have a look on eBay for availability of spares.Posted 4 years ago
Just back form a run, Thanks all! Some handy stuff there.
I’ve seen a lot advertised with 12 months MOT, was a bit suspicious of how much this actually meant, i.e. can the garage just fly it through, give no advisories and if anything does happen just say ‘general wear and tear mate’ a couple of months after.
Looked at a Otavia 1.9tdi earlier, massive compared to what I’m used to, estate, handy for bikes, 140k, full service, had it up for £1400, tempted, wanted to check mpg/insurance before ringing back, only thing I noticed was the exhaust fitting was shot with rust. Bigger car / more problems mindPosted 4 years agoInbred456Member
Nissan Almera. Possibly the dullest car ever made. Chain cam petrol engines, usually very well serviced by middle aged owners and incredibly rugged nissan mechanicals. You will not find a more reliable cheap hatchback. A mate has a hatchback and his 26er will fit in the back with both wheels on. One lamda sensor in 5yrs. The 2.2 D is old school and bullet proof.Posted 4 years agob rMember
I recommend a s-type jag.
Last year I bought a 51 plate 3.0i X-Type for £1100 with 12m MOT. It failed the MOT this year, but also needed new tyres all round. Sold for £400.
Just bought a 1998 Passat 1.8 20v with 12m MOT for £500. Spent £100 sorting out the window regs and locks.
Neither good on fuel, but both drive fine – with the Jag a far nicer place to be and AWD. I’m old enough for insurance not to be an issue.
Less to go wrong with petrols too.Posted 4 years ago
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