Hi all, got a mate popping over with his bike that has rubbing pads (new ones) on his Avid 3 disc brakes. He says there is an adjustment on the levers ? but hasn't had any luck. Could it be the levers were pulled without the wheel in and pushed the pistons in ? I know that was a common problem on my Hopes but it hasn't happened on my current brakes. Any ideas before I go in at the deep end…

replaced Pads 3/4 times on my Juicy 3's and it's always been a total PITA.
there is no adjustment on the levers, as such.

the key is to make sure the pistons are fully pushed back before trying to put the new pads in. a BIG flat blade screwdriver is the best tool for this.

another tip I read to make it easier,which also worked for me was to unscrew the bleed screw on the lever a half turn to release the pressure.

Cheers for that tip baldspot (are you an Indian ?) You don't know my Apache mate – 'flies over handlebars' do you ?

i changed the pads in my juicy 3s last night. What is normally a five minute job took me over an hour. It was partly caused by me being a cheapskate and buying s*p*r*t*r pads for which the hole in the rear of the pad to align with the caliper was on the small side (i had to physically force the pad onto the caliper with a screwdriver) and partly caused by juicys having a rubbish way to change/retain pads compared to almost every other type of brake!

One tip I was told if using aftermarket pads is to remove the paint applied to the backing plate around the edge (all the way around the thin edge surface).
I had some SUperstars that were rubbing like mad – bled them, all sorts to try & get them working. Spent 5 mins scraping the paint off, pushed pistons back & it was all fine.

I don't know why most afteramrket pads have painted backs, when the originals are all bare metal.

Cheers guys, when he got here the back wheel just wouldn't spin – though he had been out for a ride ?? – he did say the uphills were a bit tough !! – anyway after spending time levering the pistons apart then trying to work out which way the pads should face – shorter bit to the front ?? – he left with a spinning wheel – NOT perfect but spinning anyway and my advice to 'slam' his brakes on hard a few times and they SHOULD be fine – probably !

Step 1: Remove wheel and old pads and pad spring

Step 2: Lube outer surfaces of pistons with WD40/GT 85

Step 3: Push pistons back in using the ring end of an 8mm spanner with the ring over the retention pin so you don't snap it off.

Step 4: Clean all from inside of caliper with break cleaner. Leave to evaporate.

Step 5: Fit new pads. 'Bent' tabbed pad goes towards the inside of the frame.

Step 6: Replace wheel without pressing lever. Pump pads back up to the rotor.

Step 7: Centralise caliper by backing off caliper bolts, jiggling spacers around, pressing and holding brake then nipping the bolts back up. Sometimes a few goes to get ot all centred.

Bosh