I’ve been a tubeless rebel for years but have moved to it on my gravel bike. Just taken delivery of new tyres for my MTB today and, to my surprise, discovered that my wheels are already taped for tubeless. So given that my rims and (now) tyres are tubeless ready, I might as well take the plunge.

I do need new valves though. Are they all much the same, any to recommend or any to avoid? Preferably don’t want to spend much as bike bits shopping has been spendy lately.

Cheers

I’ve used cheap ones for years with no issues, other than periodically replacing cores.

If I was running inserts I’d maybe think of a posher set designed to push the insert away, but I just run tougher tyres and save myself the faff.

I’ve had better luck with the ones with conical seals at the base rather than square. Otherwise they all do the same thing.

The cheapest off eBay/Amazon. Sometimes you even get anodized valve caps 😁

I’ve got Stan’s, Peaty’s, Muc-Off and Giant (don’t know who they OEM these from) on various bikes. I would rate the Muc-Off as the best. Conical seal, o-ring under the nut which is kinder to carbon rims, valve core remover in the cap, lightweight, lovely colours.

The cheapest off eBay/Amazon.

Done, thanks.

All the standard ones pretty much work the same, but these are better IMO (+15 years of tubeless):

HI FLOW 'No Clog' Tubeless Valves

I think that the more expensive ones make it easier to top up sealant through the valve, rather than having to pop off one side of the tyre.

All my cheap ones have removable valve cores. I always fit the tyre, ensure the beads are properly seated then inject sealant through the valve.

The ones with the rubber bit shaped to fit in the rim, with slots, seem to work better, at least for me.

Also, the ones with a spoke key or a valve wrench built into the cap are really surprisingly useful.

I think I was using mucoff ones.

Some are different shapes and play nicely with different shaped rims (Shimano especially, Stans and Fulcrum a bit, ), or have different depths on the threads so only work in deep rims.

But for 95% of MTB’s the answer is yup, any old valve will work. Quite a few of mine are cut from old tubes.

Even with removable valve cores, I find the cheaper ones block up after a time.

I like the rimpact ones, but there are plenty of options.

I only ever use Stans sealant but I’ve yet to have a blocked valve. Maybe it’s an issue with other sealants?

If you feel you want to pay more for a brand name, crack on. They’re all fundamentally identical.

I also only ever use stans sealant, always getting blocked valves though (have one which needs changing on the gravel bike now, waiting until I need to change a tyre though)

As said though, if you’re no running inserts they all do the same job. I personally can’t stand coloured bits flashing around on my wheels so cheap or black and I’m happy

No – not in my experience. Cheaper ones seem to be much more hit and miss. As someone that’s almost constantly building wheel, selling them and starting again, I’ve found that Peaty’s are more consistent and last longer.

I use Stan’s Race – there’s no chance it’s going through the valve.

I find I bend more cheap valves than branded ones, but I’m not certain that’s not just confirmation bias. I buy Stan’s vales and use Stan’s sealant, and I don’t have an issue.

+1 for rimpact valves, pretty good value too IMO.

Snapped an aluminium one right off at the base, maybe not worth the weight saving

+1 for conical bases, they work best in almost all applications. The only exception ime is really skinny/funky shaped rims, I had some BOR (I think) which just didn’t work with anything but their own specific valve. But for everything else, it’s just kinda obvious that a cone fills a round hole best. I do like the valve remover/tightener caps though- cheaply available from ebay/aliexpress if you want ’em

The hiflow ones look interesting but they don’t work with all pumps, which is a way more important part of the job than anything to do with flowing air (considering that practically all tubeless valves have removable cores which do the same job with just a little bonus faff)

It is imo worth paying more if you have tyre inserts though, as with standard valves the insert can block the valve. (I cut out a niche in my insert instead, but the valves with side exits are a nicer fix). But otherwise cheap isn’t just good, it’s better than most.

Standard valves all much of a muchness, however I got fed up with clogging and bought 76-projects and they are night and day better. It is noticeable how much easier they are to inflate and how much more air goes in at a time.

My new wheels then came with Reserve Fillmore’s they’re also good, maybe not quite as out and out high volume but still way better. For their cost I’d not by Fillmore’s on their own, but I’ll only be using 76 from now on if I have to buy them.

I usually get continental or schwalbe inner tubes for the road bikes as they have removable cores. when they have “too” many puncture repairs I cut out the valves for use as tubeless valves.

Titanium Tubeless Valve Stems

4 times stronger, 86% bigger hole, replaceable bits, colours, titanium. What more do you want?

I had no issue with clogging valves for years and then all of a sudden I was having massive issues. I think aluminium valves didn’t seem to help.

I’ve upgraded to Fillmore velves which I do really like as I never need to remove a valve core any more.

I like to make sure the thread goes all the way to the end of the valve. Otherwise it is tricky with some of my pumps to inflate them. Otherwise I just buy whatever is cheapest. I’ve moved on now I’ve run out of old innertubes to cut up.

Peaty’s are not as good as CafeLatex ones. They are expensive and only ok in terms of not leaking. They also don’t like narrow road rims I’ve discovered

Have cut the valves off old inner tubes, well, the ones with removable cores, at least.

I find the only thing you might have to do is replace the core (again from any old valve) as they get junked up. You can clean out the old cores.

TBH, i’ve had clogging issues with very cheap ones where the rubber washer/wedge/cone is badly molded onto the bottom of the stem, so the hole isn’t clear.
Sometimes have to run a valve core sized pokey thing through the hole. (an old drill bit)

The ones i got free with my latest wheels are metal all the way to the end, no rubber overlap with the hole, they’ve had no issues.

FWIW with blocking valves, just poke an allen key through it, either a 2mm or 2.5mm will go through almost all cheap valves. If it’s the core, it’s usually just around teh rubber bit at the “bottom”.

Ah since someone mentioned CafeLatex,

I’ve used their rubber band type rim tape as I’d been having bad tape episodes, the joes sealant seemed to be getting into the tape causing it to unstick and if the tyre went flat it would take the tape so no chance of a blow and go.

They seem to work well although a giggle to get over the rim but the tubeless valves it came with were square bottom and the offset valve hole didn’t seem to play nice so put old faithful Muc offs in.

I tend to use the muc offs in undesirable colours when they are cheap.

I also tend to carry a few spare cores as I like snapping them off for fun, nothing beats a slightly flat tyre ending up totally flat as giving it a bit of air mid ride seemed a good idea 🙂

I think I’ve bought them in 10’s for not much on Amazon,also keep a paperclip in the toolkit as well for de-clagging duties and a little thing to tighten the valves, all these are cunningly selected on being without them on previous (abandoned) rides.

Quite a few of mine are cut from old tubes.

Wanders off muttering about why I have never thought of this before……

Bright colours are the best otherwise I can tell no difference. Some Aliexpress jobs come with hex shaped nuts which are handy if you need a bit more oomph to seal than your fingers can take or if the need removing after being there for years.