Anyone added a dropper post to a Scott Scale?

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  • Anyone added a dropper post to a Scott Scale?
  • Premier Icon bounce
    Subscriber

    Love my carbon Scott Scale but missing the dropper option. Yeah, I know it’s an XC bike… Anyone added one?

    Wrestling with internal vs external routing choice as have spare space due to no front mech but looks very tight round the bottom bracket. I guess the only internal option would be a Reverb rather than a cable release model – and I love the totally reliable, user-serviceable Command Post I’ve got on my full suss.

    Advice sought!

    ssmith1979
    Member

    Done it on my wife’s bike. Fox transfer cable actuated post.

    IF you are running a 1x set up you are in luck. Use the cable entry to the downtube previously used for the front mech cable for the dropper cable. Then down to BB, around it and up in to seat tube. Loop appears tight externally but is fine in practice.

    Result is really neat and tidy – almost factory! You do have to drill out the cable stop in the front mech cable entry point – but dead easy to do and if you are 1x anyway you don’t need it do you?! Would work equally well for Reverb but with a little more bleed faffing.

    If however you are not 1x you are going to ruin the lovely clean lines of the scale with an external routed flapping about monstrosity… 😉

    Premier Icon Pridds
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    Did it to mine. Sacrificed a bottle cage boss to get the internal routing out of the frame.

    Premier Icon schmiken
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    Did it to my Spark. Very carefully drilled out the cable stop and ran the cable round the BB. Using a KS Lev with no issues and looks super tidy!

    Premier Icon bounce
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    Excellent, thanks! Ssmith, your method is exactly what I was thinking of doing. If a Fox works then a Command Post IR should work too.

    Pridds, sounds like you have done the same thing but taken the cable out of the seatpost for an externally routed post? Did you have to drill the boss or just take the bolt out?

    Looks like the IR is the way to go, anyone else?

    mark90
    Member

    I love the totally reliable, user-serviceable Command Post I’ve got on my full suss

    Get an internally routed Command Post (the IR models are internally routed).

    And I agree about the ease of user servicing on the CP.

    Premier Icon bounce
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    Thanks Schmiken – and Mark – looks like I’d better get shopping 😀

    Premier Icon Pridds
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    No its was a stealth Thomson on an alloy scale and the boss had be be drilled out for enough room to get the cable out

    Gotama
    Member

    Or a Magura to make your life easier?

    Premier Icon bounce
    Subscriber

    Interesting suggestion, not sure I want to be an early adopter for that technology tho it certainly does make installation convenient. Think IR cable thru the whole frame is the way to go but the Command Post IRcc looks quite a bit more complex to service than my old original. More home working browsing to do.

    ferrals
    Member

    I am thinking of doing the same pridds, any chance of a picture? What year scale? I think the routing is the same between years though?

    Gotama
    Member

    Fwiw the Fox Transfer as suggested ^^^ there has a very easy installation as you clamp the cable at the lever end. Mine has been flawless in the four months so far and I have a habit of breaking reverbs pretty quickly.

    Trimix
    Member

    I had the same issue on my Scott. After much thought and forum research I found a solution:

    Use the Vyron post – no cable / hose so no drilling. Plus you can use it in any other bike.

    Works really well.

    Trimix
    Member

    Also has the advantage that you never need to re-thread it when / if it goes off for a service or repair.

    Speak to your LBS mechanics about routing internal dropper posts.

    mark90
    Member

    My IR post isn’t hard to strip and service, only thing to watch is the plastic bushing tools for getting the seal head on / off without damaging the seals. I’ve not stripped an IRCC but I assume the only difference would be more ring grooves in the tube for the collet to engage in at the different heights.

    No need to remove the cable from the bike to remove the post for servicing. If replacing cable the doing inner or outer cable one at a time makes it easier.

    mattflew
    Member

    I’m trying to fit a Brand-X dropper to my Scott Scale 750. I’ve removed the front mech and want to use the front mech’s internal routing for the dropper post. I have the cable routed through the frame as far as the BB area, but I can’t see how to get the cable to route up to the seat post tube from here. Anyone got any tips or pics that would help? Sorry if this is a dumb question!

    Premier Icon schmiken
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    Take the cranks off? I did it to a Spark but that was easy as I just kept wiggling until it went where I wanted it to.

    mattflew
    Member

    I’ve got a pressfit bb so’d need to replace with a new bb once removed, plus don’t have the proper tools for removing/fitting new one. I’ve just ordered one of these http://www.parktool.com/product/internal-cable-routing-kit-ir-1 hopefully this will work as this is getting more and more expensive, I was hoping it would just thread through with a bit of wiggling!

    mrpickles
    Member

    mattflew did the park tool help?

    mrpickles
    Member

    Going to fit a brand x to my scale 745. Only other bit I’m not sure of is if the lever will get in the way of the remote lockout lever.

    heer
    Member

    I have added a dropper post to my Scale 730 2017. My post came with a 4mm cable, so I started with drilling the empty inlet hole for the internal routed front gear. Easy!

    Next, pull out the “plastic-wire-steerer” on the down  side of the bottom bracket. You don’t have to remove the wire for the gear! This will open a large hole into the frame.

    Now push the cable throug the inlet down to the bottom bracket and pull it out through the hole. Then twist the cable and push it back into the hole and up to the saddle post.

    Done!!

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