Home Forums Bike Forum 2-pot vs 4-pot brakes. Real world differences?

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  • 2-pot vs 4-pot brakes. Real world differences?
  • vlad_the_invader
    Full Member

    I’ve got a relatively new hard tail with Shimano SLX M7100 2 Pot brakes and I am super impressed with them for the price.

    I’ve also got a 5 year old FS (160mm travel SC High tower) with Magura MT7 4 Pot brakes and I used to think those brakes where good but I now  prefer the bite/feel of the SLX.

    So, I’m debating replacing the brakes on the FS but not sure whether 4 pot and/or XT would justify the extra cash.

    Using the SLX 2 Pot as a baseline, I could:

    (A) pay an extra 33% for XT 2 Pots (which has Servowave but is otherwise identical) or

    (B) pay an extra 50% to get SLX 4 Pot.

    Either way, I’ll have 203mm rotors at both ends.

    FWIW, I’m 90kg and the trails I ride are generally steep/techy rather than flow.

    So, does XT Servowave outscore SLX 4 pot or do I just save my money and stick with SLX 2 Pot?

    1
    BearBack
    Free Member

    I’d just put a 4 piston caliper up front. At least you’ll have a more reliably blead rear.

    1
    rascal
    Free Member

    I went from 2 pot XT to 4 pot Hope V4. I quite liked to XTs til there was a leaky lever issue. The difference was ‘noticeable’ to say the least ?. Almost too much for the bike and the riding I do. I also run E4s with 200mm rotors F&R on a bigger bike which are less powerful than the V4 but still plenty powerful enough. If you can afford them, get E4s.

    2
    enigmas
    Free Member

    4 pots all the way, way more modulation than the 2 pots and a bit more power, though less than you might think.

    They do take frequent bleeding to offset wandering bite points though.

    hopefiendboy
    Full Member

    Just don’t get shimano ??????

    2
    mboy
    Free Member

    You prefer the feel of 2 pot SLX over MT7’s at 90kg riding steep and techy terrain predominantly?!?!

    This does not compute…

    MT7’s are one of the most powerful brakes on the market, Vs a mid priced XC brake…

    Whatever you do, at your size and riding the terrain you do, it is false economy to scrimp on braking power… So if you must go with Shimano, just get the 4 pots…

    But don’t say we didn’t warn you about the wandering bite point!

    2
    vlad_the_invader
    Full Member

    @mboy

    Free Member

    You prefer the feel of 2 pot SLX over MT7’s at 90kg riding steep and techy terrain predominantly?!?!

    To be fair, I don’t usually ride the hard tail in that terrain but on other (mellower) trails, the SLX 2 Pots have impressed me.

    EDIT TO ADD:

    My local descents are around 15 minutes max and relatively slow but steep and I just returned from a trip where the descents where a LOT faster/open and much longer. This trip I took the hard tail and that’s where the SLX impressed me…

    How long does it take for the “wandering bite point” to manifest itself? i.e. you know immediately you’ve bought a bad pair as the problem exists from new or does it slowly occur as the brakes get older? Have I just been lucky with my pair??

    suspendedanimation
    Full Member

    Just put sinilar brakes on my bike and they are great even if they might not last the warranty period.

    Always a shimano fan but since trying guide re and then codes I prefer the reliability and power of sram brakes. Guide res you can usually get 50-60 an end

    chestrockwell
    Full Member

    Not had a problem with Shimano brakes so far and have had a fair few sets. I’d say 4 pots are worth the extra but I’d also say Hope 4 pots are worth the extra again. Maybe not for you though if you like the grabby nature of Shimano?

    davros
    Full Member

    What price do you have for the slx 4 pot?

    Merlin have XT 4 pot for £200

    https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-xt-m8120-front-and-rear-disc-brake-set-179622.html

    mtbfix
    Full Member

    I have 2 pot SLX on my hardtail and they’re fine. However the 4 pot XTs I have on the FS have more power and better modulation. The Merlin price is very tempting by way of an upgrade.

    andylc
    Free Member

    I’ve got 4 pot XTs on my new bike, vs Guide RSC on the old one. Can’t say there is a great deal of difference – both have good power and modulation. If anything the Guides are a bit more powerful but the new ones may still be bedding in a bit. Plus I prefer the Uberbike Race Matrix pads on the Guides to the supplied pads so will likely get a set of these when I change pads.

    dukeduvet
    Full Member

    I’ve got 4 pot up front and two pot on the rear of my hardtail. m7100 calipers but zee levers and gorilla sintered pads. The two pot does feel strong but when you haul on the front you do know there is more power. No problems with bite point on the front but rear is a pain to get a decent bleed. If I was buying again it would be TRP slate t4’s though.

    1
    kimbers
    Full Member

    I went from deore 2 pots to deore 4pots

    The 2 pots were fine but the 4 pots just do everything better, they still stop me fine but at 90kg after a day riding on the 4 pots my hands are less fatigued.

    BlipBloop
    Full Member

    Real world? It matters how heavy you are.

    That said I’m heavy and have XT 2 pot and 4 pot. Once bedded in, both work great.

    The only brake I couldn’t get on with was XTR 2 pot. I just couldn’t get them bedded in so I took them off. Squeals like a pig.

    Had Deore 4 pot. Absolutely fine but took ages to bed in.

    plenty of user error I am sure.

    andeh
    Full Member

    Recently upgraded from XT 2 pot to XT 4 pot. They’re fine, but I think I was expecting more of a night/day difference. They’re not anchors, but maybe have a bit more modulation. TBF, I was also running soft bitey pads on the 2 pots, and the standard Shimano pads aren’t as on/off.

    I’m not particularly heavy, but do ride long, steep, techy stuff.

    1
    bitmuddytoday
    Free Member

    4 pot pads last considerably longer, being bigger.

    It’s not a certainty that you’ll have a wandering bite point with Shimano, or that you’ll notice it.

    thols2
    Full Member

    If it were me, I’d buy a set of 4-pots and put one 4-pot caliper on the front of each bike, with a 2-pot on the back.

    They do take frequent bleeding to offset wandering bite points though.

    It’s not the frequency of bleeding that is the issue, it’s whether they are thoroughly bled and you’ve got all the air out of the reservoir. If there’s air in the reservoir, there won’t be enough fluid to take up the piston travel when the pads wear. When that happens, air will get into the master cylinder if you lay the bike on its side. You’ll get excessive lever travel, but then it will correct itself once you’ve had the bike upright for a while and the air bubble pops back up to the reservoir. They are fiddly bastards to bleed, but if you get all the air out of the reservoir, you won’t have problems with wandering bite point.

    5
    Northwind
    Full Member

    TBH most of this stuff has nothing to do with the number of pistons. You need to get up to really big pistons in a 4-pot, stuff like Maven, before you’re doing something that can’t be duplicated with 4-pot. Hope X4 takes you to the edge of that limit. But basically very few 4 pots are actually exceeding the design limits of 2 pots because most manufacturers don’t want to, they design the brake they want and it’s within 2 pot limits. And that’s even before you ask if it’s actually a good idea- Maven has massive piston area but it needs a massive lever piston to match, is that really something that couldn’t be duplicated with the right combo of lever and caliper piston, lever and leverage? Maybe, maybe not.

    (I’m discounting ovals here because **** ovals, ovals suck)

    The other trick of course is having different size pistons, but tbf the jury’s out on how useful that is, Formula’s excellent cura 4 has equal size pistons and nobody seems to be able to see any downside. Everyone else I think does it but does it help? The logic of different engagement speed is sound but it seems to work out trivial in the real world, especially once the brake gets a bit older.

    It also doesn’t dictate pad size, again unless we’re getting really enormous which hardly anything does- pads can be a lot longer than their piston. It doesn’t dictate feel or power or heat resistance or any of that.These are ratio and size things not number of piston things

    Oh and of course it’s not all one way. A 4 pot piston of equal piston area and strength is heavier and more expensive, it has twice as many parts to go wrong and is also more demanding of everything working right.

    Mostly, if you want the latest brake it’s going to be 4 pot so that could be an important consideration, just because of marketing purposes, I wouldn’t want to try and sell a top end 2 pot today. TBF I’m surprised we’ve not done what motorbikes did and gone directly onto pointless 6 pots. But half the time, is getting the latest brake even smart? With most manufacturers I want to see if the damn things actually work.

    This is where I go away from maths and get into orneryness. Because **** me, making good brakes is a completely solved problem. I am using Formula The Ones from 2010, they have great power, great feel, they’re incredibly reliable (obviously, because all mine are 14 bloody years old. Now that’s not to say everyone would like them, they have a specific feel that divides opinion- but in 2024 we’re still getting new brakes with wandering bite points, difficult bleeds, sticky pins, all sorts of temperamentalness, leaky pistons. Brakes you can’t take the pads out the top of are back ffs! I mean who in the name of god thought “Oh yeah what i want from Shimano is twice as many shit piston seals to leak”? All solved problems that we’ve elected to unsolve in the name of new and shiny. Bloody icewave and pads with fins on to solve overheating problems that other better brakes just don’t have. Bloody cnc’d from billet instead of forgings.

    If we put half as much time and money into making really good 2 pot brakes and iterating on last year’s design and fixing them and not putting out new stuff that basically isn’t fit for purpose then on average most bikes would have better brakes and we’d have spent less money. But that’s none of my business 😉

    BearBack
    Free Member

    ^ True, show me a more powerful and better modulated brake than the o.g Gustav 2 piston brake!

    reeksy
    Full Member

    I have MT5 4 pots and Formula Cura 2 pots and honestly couldn’t tell the difference in power.

    1
    thols2
    Full Member

    TBH most of this stuff has nothing to do with the number of pistons. You need to get up to really big pistons in a 4-pot, stuff like Maven, before you’re doing something that can’t be duplicated with 4-pot.

    AFAIK, Shimano 2-pots use 22 mm pistons, the 4-pots use a 16 mm and an 18 mm piston each side. That gives about 20% more piston area, so 20% more braking power for the same clamping force at the lever. The different sized pistons allow better control of the pressure across the pad. However, they will also be more prone to a spongy lever feel if they aren’t properly bled. 4-pots use a longer pad with more surface area (and weight), so the pads will last longer and be more resistant to fade on fast descents. 2-pots are a bit lighter and perfectly fine for most riding, but 4-pots are more powerful and resistant to overheating if you are doing long, fast descents.

    Mugboo
    Full Member

    I haven’t used many 4 pot Shimano’s but have owned lots of Deore, SLX and XT 2 pots. At the moment we have a set of SLX and a set of Deore, all reasonably modern.

    The Deore’s seem to stay bled, the SLX rear I can’t quite get right but its due a fresh fluid and the XT’s leaked.

    The best pair bleedwise of the Shimano’s were the cheaper ones that came on an Orange Crush, is that a more simple lever design? These might have been 4 pots.

    I have E4’s on my Airdrop and prefer the modulation on these. They don’t feel as powerful as Shimano 2 pots bitewise and I find them a little fussy from a piston alignment point of view but when I get that right, they go from spongey to perfection. We have lots of slower steeper trails locally and I find these much more forgiving than Shimano for this.

    The hardtail has a set of those Slate Evo’s with 2.3 rotors that were sold off cheap and they feel very powerful. Its early days yet at to how reliable they will turn out to be but so far so good. Its just used as a winter hardtail so I’m less bothered by how they work, its more for fitness.

    imnotamused
    Free Member

    Is it possible to replace a 2 pot Shimano SLX caliper with a 4 pot? No need to change the lever?

    2
    tall_martin
    Full Member

    I had some bite point  wandering xt and went to hope E4.

    I don’t particularly remember the power difference.

    Currently E4 on full suss, V4 on hardtail, sram G2 on commuter, xt 2 pot on front of tandem, slx/ Shimano non series on wife’s hardtail.

    They are all a wee bit different, but all stop reliably.

    For a while I had the same brakes on hardtail and full suss. This was great, but then some died and I bought a complete group set.

    Money no object they would all have hope V4. But for the gains it is not woth it

    kimbers
    Full Member

    imnotamused
    Free Member
    Is it possible to replace a 2 pot Shimano SLX caliper with a 4 pot? No need to change the lever?

    Yes, same levers

    Yorkshire Rich
    Free Member

    I swapped 2 pot deore for 4 pot deore plus bigger rotors on my hardtail and the difference was significant – I can now stop! 115kg ish takes some stopping.

    1
    qwerty
    Free Member

    Once you live with the Shimano wandering bite point for long enough, your brain recalibrates to the bite point being random and it’s a non issue.

    (insert laughing emoji)

    imnotamused
    Free Member

    Thanks Kimbers

    1
    nbt
    Full Member

    TBF I’m surprised we’ve not done what motorbikes did and gone directly onto pointless 6 pots

    I remember Hope did a 6-pot a LONG time ago

    thols2
    Full Member

    Is it possible to replace a 2 pot Shimano SLX caliper with a 4 pot? No need to change the lever?

    Basically, all Shimano levers and calipers are compatible as long as you have the correct hose fittings on each end. The cheap brakes use different hose fittings so you might need to replace those if you are trying to match parts from different level groupsets. New SLX levers should pair with any new SLX caliper though.

    1
    intheborders
    Free Member

    TBF I’m surprised we’ve not done what motorbikes did and gone directly onto pointless 6 pots

    And then pulled back and worked out how to get 4-pots working properly.

    I had the Yamaha R1 4-pots after various 6-pots.

    whatyadoinsucka
    Free Member

    depends how you ride, size of bike / steepness speed of trails.

    i prefer the feel of hope e4 4pots, than shimano XT/slx i’ve had in the past, nothing wrong with those in action. but replacing the levers under warrnaty can be a pain. my xt m8000 slx m675 must have been replaced 3 or 4 times

    had magura on a more XC orientated bike 4 pot front 2 rear, work very well, had a lever warrantied within 2 years (5 year warranty)

    now have hope on gravel bike so nice to run the same pads on most of my bikes than stocking multiple sizes and brands

    Northwind
    Full Member

    thols2
    Full Member

    AFAIK, Shimano 2-pots use 22 mm pistons, the 4-pots use a 16 mm and an 18 mm piston each side. That gives about 20% more piston area, so 20% more braking power for the same clamping force at the lever. The different sized pistons allow better control of the pressure across the pad. However, they will also be more prone to a spongy lever feel if they aren’t properly bled. 4-pots use a longer pad with more surface area

    So this is exactly my point, these aren’t 2 pot vs 4 pot issues. To replicate the 16/18 piston setup you just need a 26mm piston, that’s big but within scope for 2-pots. It’s just that Shimano have chosen a smaller than maximum sized piston for the 2 pots, it’s not a restriction but a choice. Presumably they think there are benefits to that smaller piston- but a skeptic might think that a key benefit is being able to say “these 4 pots are more powerful” in your marketing fluff. (I reckon you can <probably> replicate the 16/18 duals with a 22mm piston and the correct changes at the lever end,but that’s getting complicated)

    And likewise the longer pad is a design choice- their 2 pot pad could easily be longer, many are. Especially with a larger piston. So if long pads are an advantage, rather than a side effect of the piston layout, you’ve got to ask why it’s not always maximised.

    (quite a common thing, this- i’m always skeptical when a new thing is supposed to bring with it specific advantages, but when that same thing wasn’t maximised in the old. See also: boost hubs)

    In this example the different size piston thing is the only bit that might actually be an unreplicatable benefit but like I mentioned Formula went with equal size and it seems to work just as well. Magura too. It does make sense on paper though. (my own suspicion is that it basically goes out the window once you’re actually applying braking force, and the whole thing just functions as a unit, but I could be wrong)

    dc1988
    Full Member

    Formula 2 pot brakes use a 24mm piston so are theoretically almost as powerful as a Shimano 4 pot. I would assume increased seal size will affect how they function as well

    thols2
    Full Member

    So if long pads are an advantage, rather than a side effect of the piston layout, you’ve got to ask why it’s not always maximised.

    My guess is that they would suffer from uneven pad wear, plus they would tend to flex. At some point, it becomes better to have two pistons per pad, that’s why F1 cars use multi-piston setups (they are extremely weight conscious so a lighter 2-pot caliper would be the first thing they’d use if it could be made as effective).

     (I reckon you can <probably> replicate the 16/18 duals with a 22mm piston and the correct changes at the lever end,but that’s getting complicated)

    That would increase the hydraulic pressure of the system. There’s a limit to how much pressure the system can handle without needing heavier hoses and fittings and changes to the seals that would probably cause more drag and make the lever feel worse. Also, increasing the hydraulic pressure of the system will make it more susceptible to air in the system so bleeding it will become increasingly critical, plus expansion of the hoses will tend to make it more spongy. The lever feel will suffer if you increase the hydraulic pressure too much.

    Formula 2 pot brakes use a 24mm piston so are theoretically almost as powerful as a Shimano 4 pot.

    That will depend on the diameter of the master cylinder piston. The hydraulic leverage is the ratio of the wheel cylinder piston area divided by the master cylinder piston area. If the Formulas have a larger diameter master cylinder, they won’t have the same hydraulic leverage. On top of that, there’s also the mechanical leverage of the lever, which is sometimes adjustable.

    dhague
    Full Member

    Another vote for Formula Cura 2-pots here – amazing modulation & stopping power, and good enough for downhill racing.

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