Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
  • 1×10 single ring cross set up dilemma
  • trickydisco
    Free Member

    I’m wanting to change my current set up (36/46 with 11-23 or 25) with a 1×10 (yes i know the 46 is too big)

    So i’m thinking either

    42 with an 11-32 (mtb) + mtb mech

    or

    38 with an 11-27

    Current set up

    11-23

    Lower gear
    36/23 42.3” – 12.6mph (100rpm)

    Top gear
    46/11 112.9” – 33.6mph

    __________________________
    38 single ring

    38 11/27

    Lowest
    38/27 38” – 11.3mph

    Highest
    38/11 93.3” – 27.7mph
    ___________

    42 Single ring

    42/11

    42/27 – 42″

    42/32 – 35.4″

    42/11 – 103.1″

    Do you think the 11-32 is going to be too widely spaced gear wise? this is my worry the steps between gears with be too big for racing

    What do you think?

    Anyone gone wide range mtb cassette for racing?

    trickydisco
    Free Member

    Think i’m going to go with a 42 and an 11-28 out back

    That gives a a good range and i won’t have to use a long cage mech

    42/28 – 40.5″ 12mph

    42/11 – 103.1″ (30.7mph)

    clubber
    Free Member

    I’ve been considering this and having graphed it all out, I was thinking a 44 with an 11-36 as this has the same range and jumps between gears as my current setup (34/50 and 11-28) just losing the top 1, maybe 2 hardest gears which are rarely used (and certainly never used offroad).

    a 1x setup on current 10 speed cassettes will never need a long cage rear mech – 11-36 works fine with a short cage.

    If you go up to a 40/42 then you might need a medium cage.

    trickydisco
    Free Member

    Is this for racing cx clubber?

    I heard I can use a 9spd mtb mech with a 10 speed mtb cassette as they are very closely matched

    clubber
    Free Member

    Sorry, no, not for racing though I would always say that offroad, you don’t want too narrow gaps as you change pace much more than on the road and don’t want to be constantly changing two gears at a time.

    You can use 10 speed Shimano road shifters with mtb 9 speed mech for a 10 speed cassette.

    SRAM have the advantage here though as you can use 10 speed road shifters with a 10 speed mtb rear mech with a clutch. Shimano don’t do a 9 speed rear mech with a clutch.

    notmyrealname
    Free Member

    I’m currently running my Pro6 1×10.

    I’m running a 42t Absolute Black chainring up front with an XT 11-32 cassette fitted with a medium cage X0 Type 2 rear mech. So far I’ve managed to ride everything I’ve tried and not had any dropped chains.

    I’ve got a second set of wheels with road tyres fitted and run an 11-27 which sees me spinning out at about 32-33mph.

    For racing I’m planning on trying a 38t with the 11-32 cassette.

    D0NK
    Full Member

    was doing some number crunching on sheldon’s gear calculator this morning. Currently singlespeed was originally looking at 2×9 36/46 and a 12-26 or an 11-32 block. Looks like 12-26 is not going to offer a low enough bottom gear and too little difference in ratio for offroad, I ran a road cassette on an mtb years ago and as clubber says too much gear shifting.
    I could just buy a RH 10spd STI use a steel 42t cassette with an 11-36 cassette, that would give me almost the same lower range as an 11-32 double setup (not too fussed about top end)

    From my reading up most road mechs will cover the tooth difference but struggle slightly with the size of the 36T, but 9spd mtb mechs should work fine as they use the same pull as road systems. One thing I meant to start a thread on was the 6mm spacers that get 10 spd mechs working on 9speed systems, presumably these could be used with a 10spd STI shifter to get you a clutch mech on a CX bike….?

    might be a bodge too far tho.

    SRAM have the advantage here though as you can use 10 speed road shifters with a 10 speed mtb rear mech with a clutch

    How do SRAM double tap compare? Is a hamfisted shimano road bike user going to manage to get on with them? (Ouch, bit pricey tho)

    trickydisco
    Free Member

    I’m running a 42t Absolute Black chainring up front with an XT 11-32 cassette fitted with a medium cage X0 Type 2 rear mech. So far I’ve managed to ride everything I’ve tried and not had any dropped chains.

    Are you racing? If so how did you find the ratios?

    clubber
    Free Member

    How do SRAM double tap compare?

    It’s a bit like the eternal boredom of Campag Vs Shimano.

    There are muppets who’ll tell you that it’s absolutely shit or that it’s the best thing ever and that the others are the opposite. As ever, it’s more a preference thing. Though SRAM do seem to have some problems with the shift lever breaking but that might be anecdotal.

    I know of a few committed Shimano or Campag users who’ve gone over to SRAM and now love it. (I’m campag myself and run a mix of 10 speed campag shifters with Shimano mtb 9 speed mech and cassette via hubbub method).

    D0NK
    Full Member

    it was more the nuances of use I was worried about clubber I figure most mainstream shifters are fairly dependable. From what I’ve read double tap depends on how hard/far you press the single lever, so wondering if my ham fistedness will hold me back or whether pretty much anyone can get along with it.

    I was also wondering how campag works, can you hit the thumb “button” from the drops ok? They look more setup for riding on the hoods.

    notmyrealname
    Free Member

    Are you racing? If so how did you find the ratios?

    I’ve not raced it yet while running the 1×10 but plan on doing a couple of the summer CX races to see how it goes.

    Regarding the SRAM Vs Shimano thing, I prefer the SRAM on my ‘cross bike to the 105 on my old road bike. I’m running Rival shifters with an X0 rear mech with no issues so far.

    overthehill
    Free Member

    I’m running a double set-up that’s not a million miles from what you’re considering, at least at the top end.

    On my cross bike I’ve an XT 40/28 chainset paired with an 11-32 mtb cassette, with 105 shifters and a 105 long cage (SGS) rear mech.

    I’m in the 40 most of the time, and as per your calculations I spin out at around 30mph. Not sure I’d have enough low gears to go at offroad with just a 40T, but then I’m lacking in leg power and I live in the Lakes.

    Rorschach
    Free Member

    I’ve been racing with a 38t up front and 10sp 11/32 cassette,9sp xt rear mech for the last 2 seasons.Might get a 40t thick/thin ring so I can ditch the chain guide (bash ring and dog fang).

    mattsccm
    Free Member

    Re Campag v SRAM.
    I have always been a Campag user from about 1980. Can’t abide Shimano shifting . I love the Campag button and even my stubby little fingers can hit it from the drops. Recently bought a bike with SRAM and I must admit it is very nice. I like the fact that it has great levels of reach adjustment although its weird that its not 1 click to go to a smaller chainring . That bit seems backwards. It goes 2 clicks to drop to a lower gear. Front or back. I happily swap from Campag to SRAM on different bikes. The double tap isn’t what it sounds like. That term, ( presumably meant to vaguely make you think of the shooting term) isn’t correct. Its more 1 push, then another in the same stroke.
    SRAM does have the bonus of allowing a mix and match of road and MTB components.

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