No pics but my new house has suffered a bodgy central heating install in the past which left it with loads of bad and creaky and moving floorboards, and inevitably being 1950s the boards are a random nonstandard size and it's impossible to find a perfect match for replacement boards short of expensive salvage, so I'm going through it and stepping on every square inch of the floor looking for movement and squeaks then going through it and replacing screws and adding more and occasionally lifting a board and literally gluing all the broken bits back together with wood glue and clamping it together to make a single good board again, time consuming but immensely satisfying.
Yesterday - fancy thermostatic kettle was getting picky about how it sat on its base and wouldn't turn on unless it was just right. Took the base apart, found that one of the sprung connectors had cracked and bent a bit out of shape. Soldered a bit of reinforcement behind it and kettle is now back to behaving itself.
Another one of the connectors broke yesterday - fixed again using a bit of copper wire to join the two halves.
Tales of washing machine doom woke me from my gentle slumber this morning.
"It won't spin, everything is soaking and not cleaned. Shall I order a new one?"
To be fair, we don't tend to persevere once the big stuff starts going wrong and my initial thoughts were motor, (brushless so not just a case of carbon replacement) or bearing.
I said no, let me take a look first. Found it still full of water, so took to carefully draining through the pump, in which I also found 3 hair bobbles.
After a quick bobblectomy it's sloshing away merrily. Bonus.
If the Hoover design team are reading this, an error code or 2 might have been helpful.
My rear wheel has sounded scrapy for ages now, the disc guard thngy had come loose again and i knew the pad/s were way down so i had a look and one pad was worn out so bad it left scrapes on the disc. Thats becos the piston had seized up. Id ordered new pads but now just twisted the disc shield off and ordered a new caliper.
The other side pad was good {70%} so today the caliper arrived.
Id got a caliper rewind tool now but the piston was too far out for it to work on the old caliper so that was a waste of money anyway.
Brake pipes unscrewed ok once i figured out how it was put together. Had a minor heart attack when the rigid pipe thread was the wrong size for the new caliper, but that was cos it was upside down. Tried a few times to get the pipe screwed in without cross threading but it worked in the end, everything fitted back, quick bleed and its good now
Went to thailand last month with a big lightweight suitcase which somehow wrecked a wheel. Unscrewing the unit from inside nowhere had a replacement so i saw a wheel the right size in tesco ,and eventually found a mate with a drill to remove the old one and a shop with washers and bolts so was able to rig it to get home, although it would roll a bit sideways. Had a look when i got back and the internal framework was broken, i guess i was lucky it lasted so long
The middle part of a cellotape snail dispenser
The last thing of any significance, ie more than a dab of glue, is the grip on my bow. The original one cracked down the lamination, I fixed it but it cracked elsewhere, turned out the two screw holes were mis-aligned causing it to be over-stressed. I got a replacement, but I’ve been wondering if I could customise it to better fit my hand, because my arthritis in my thumb joints can make it quite uncomfortable after a while - the top of the joint can rub raw, which is painful.
So, I bought a little rechargeable rotary tool, and used the cylindrical grindstone to reshape the screw holes, then scored the top and rebuild it with black Miliput, adding a little bump lower down the handle, then wearing a nitrile glove pressed the grip against my hand in the position it rests against my hand. It’s important to point out that you don’t actually grip an Olympic recurve bow, it sits in the ‘V’ of your thumb and forefinger as you hold it out, with a chord or strap around the back of the hand, it’s drawing the bow that holds it in place, once you release, if there wasn’t a restraining strap it would fall on the floor.
After shaping a bit of dense foam and sticking it where the top of my thumb fits, it now happily sits in place with no effort.
Really pleased with how it’s turned out.
The new grip alongside the customised one on the bow.
In place, sitting in exactly the right position, with no effort, the strap is the woven paracord hanging down below, it would normally loop up over the back of my hand.
I’ll probably wear the elastic wrist support now, which I couldn’t before, it gets a bit uncomfortable after shooting for two hours or so without it.
My last end last night, using the new grip, and a bit of coaching to correct som bad habits I’d got into…
Original Dyson dc07 died. Was gifted to me around 10 years ago when it was around 10 years old.
Not only has it been a great 'hoover', it actually has some sentimental value.
I've replaced the filters and belt a couple of times and brush bar a couple of years ago, but this time it smelled funny and just straight up died.
£36 for new motor, power cord, filters and belt. Took an hour, some swearing, a nasty cut and a bruised thumb but it now performs like new!
The teenage boy's school shoes started to lose their sole last week. Quickly acquired a tube of shoe goo and sorted them yesterday. It's the first time I've used it and it seems to stick like the proverbial to a blanket. Only has to last 4 more weeks to the end of term so we should be good for that.
Garage door is the latest one. It's an electric one and while it's been very good it decided to shit itself the other day - all the brackets that hold the door to the powered spindle breaking resulting in the door being inoperable.
Weirdly spares were readily available on amazon of all places, so bits arrived next day and after some tinkering it's back in use and better than before as our installer was a bit of a muppet and had bodged a couple of bits / used the wrong screws. Trickiest bit was resetting the top stop for the door.
A Bosch hand mixer. The button had decided to stick shut, which required a complete disassembly to free off. Only broke one bit as it was physically impossible to separate it without breaking the bit I wanted to fix.
I think I've fixed the oil temperature gauge in one of my cars as well. The oil pressure one is still bollocksed, sadly.
So my active sub started making a weird farting noise and had no volume.
The cause of the issue soon became apparent!! 
to be fair I've owned it 25yrs and the foam suspension has simply perished by the looks of it.
A quick look on the internets and and my reaction to the prices of new 10" active subs was "ooow blooody much!?!?!"
It then dawned on me I could just swap out the driver for a new one, but that brings its own headache, as the amp and speaker are made in-house by Paradigm in Canada, a lifetime ago with unknown specs other than 100w, 10", so pairing a new speaker to the box and amp might require a bit of guess work. I supose I could have contacted tem to see if they had any detailed tech-specs buried in a filling cabinate somewhere, but, meh..
Enter the £10 repair kit! includes two new surrounds, some special glue and a brush. Well actually £15 as I had to buy an additional tube of the correct glue.. the 15ml supplied was a bit of a stretch for a 10" speaker.
Watched a few youtube vids to get the jist of what's involved and variations of technique people use. Who would have thought there were so many hi-fi nerds doing speaker refurb videos? 🤣
Slight hiccup in that the gasket is some sort of paper/card laminate, and I mangled it slightly removing it, so a bit of generic hobby glue gently massaged into it, & clamped down took care of that.
All the caps on the amp look good so I've not touched that.
Good as new for £15... 😎
Out of curiosity exactly how long does it take before you trust diy plumbing work you've just done? I'm thinking probably a decade is reasonable?
Not sure it counts as a fix but new house had a huge load of redundant plumbing and pipework in it, it had an attic water tank which is gone, but the mains pipes still went all the way up to the attic and back down, complete with a load of pipe size changes and random connectors and loose fittings so that it made maximum noise every time anything in the house draws water. And also about half of an old central heating system still under the floor. (you can tell you're dealing with a lazy half-arsed heating installer, when they didn't bother to steal all the old pipes) Had to take a bunch of floor up anyway to fix wobbly floorboards (part of the same problem, lots of ineptly chopped rafters and poor pipe locations so that the boards were hanging) so removing a load of that crap made sense as it was getting in the way and preventing me stabilising the floor. Not to mention extracting like 30 kilos of copper so far for the scrap man at a cost of nothing but lost skin and time.
But now I have Plumbing Fear.
if its still dry in 24 hours I'm happy. I have replumbed 3 houses / flats
Ancient car footpump that was my dads, decent quality with an accurate gauge.
The hose punctured at a crimped joint, worn through by the metal collar, new hose was more expensive than an ECP foot pump.
Hacksaw all around the collar reveals a barbed fitting into the hose, chop the hose above the hole, push onto the barbed fitting, jubilee clip, job done. I'll put a spring clip on when I get one
Back in Feb the lights on our cooker hood failed. I was at the start of long covid so couldn't think straight enough or summon the energy to look at it. I've finally got round to it - it's a chimney hood supported from the ceiling so is a bit of a faff to get it down and needs 2 people, but once down I diagnosed a failed transformer and fortunately had a spare in the garage. Stuck that one in and light is restored, but more importantly it feels like I've got rid of a persistent reminder of my condition.
Our Vitamix, bought from Costco over a decade ago. The blade pack in the 'jug', for want of a better term, had become graunchy and was on its way to seizing. Vitamix will not sell anything other than a complete new blade pack at 200€ or so.
No.
Worked out how to remove it from the jug, then pressed the bearings out to find that the seal on the top one had started to disintegrate. Cleaned them up, relubed, then reassembled them with the old bottom bearing at the top as its seal was still perfect. Works brilliantly again, and now I know the bearing specs I'll grab a couple of food-safe SKF ones at a fiver each to guarantee I'll never need to touch them again.
A bit of oak framing to the rear bay done a couple of weeks ago. Found a good local sawmill that I hadn't known about before for some replacement oak, so that will now be my new source for external hardwoods and maybe some internal joinery items too.
My car has a slightly suspicious lack of shut line gap on the bonnet to offside front wing...and some tell-tale scuffs that my son absolutely denied had nothing to do with him driving it and a gatepost. So that's next to sort. Access the inside of the wing, ease it back out a bit then t-cut the scuffs out. Or maybe he should do it?
Or maybe he should do it?
Sounds like a perfect opportunity to spend some "quality" time with your son. He gets to do the work and you drink coffee and ensure the quality of what he's doing
Haha, yes indeed!. This weekend will be ideal for that! I am after identical shut lines between the bonnet and both front wings. Hopefully this will be the start of him doing a bit more car maintenance and not just driving it. Tbf though he does have interest in certain diy jobs and helped a lot with the oak framing which was useful as the replacement oak posts were heavy and I needed the extra muscle. He also likes woodwork, so all the planing, chamfering and finishing was done by him. I just now need to transfer some of that woodwork enthusiasm to attention on the car.
Fixed the charging issue on my drone controller by reworking the solder on a few chips. Had to buy a £30 reworking station ( which is surprisingly good) and I’ve never done any reworking so it was complete trial and error. It has however saved me having to spend £150 on a replacement unit. Test flight completed and all functioning as expected.
Motor replaced in our shark vacuum cleaner. Surely having only one screw 'spare' constitutes an almost perfect repair.
Hopefully using an old inner tube tied round the main body and dust collector in lieu of the long gone plastic latch reinstates my membership to the 'bodge boys' though. :-).
Grips on my MTBs!
Flappy door on the fridge that allows ice to be dispensed has been broken for a few months. Took the door apart today and found there’s an almost Victorian mechanism in there. It connects the flap to a large solenoid via some shoddy plastic axle that had simply sheared in two.
Drilled both parts of the axle, cut an old spoke down to size to act as some internal reinforcement, then glued it all together with some epoxy. All working fine. Just as well as you can’t get parts any more for the fridge.
Repaired the hose attachment on my SKS rennkompressor. Threads had gone so drilled out, tapped and fitted a m10x1.5 to 6mm barb. Also finally fitted the larger dial and lower pressure gauge I bought ages ago.
The clasp that holds the battery compartment shut on my head torch has been getting weaker and weaker. Last night one half off it snapped off completely.
Youtube has been presenting me with vids about using a soldering iron and cable ties for plastic-welding, so thought I'd give it a go. It's not the prettiest, but feels fairly strong. I was a bit rushed before work when doing it this morning, I might try and tidy it up a little over the weekend.
Replaced a heating element in a vented tumble dryer.
A very old toy donated to us, all the plastic holding the front axle in place had broken and disappeared. I used a small piece of Ikea chopping board with a groove to hold the axle and a self tapper to hold it in.
Ikea chopping boards are a resource that no workshop should be without, easy to saw, slightly flexible and also takes a screw. I’ve used them for kitchen drawer sliders, door catches and stopping adjustable tow bar rattles - amongst others!
Good tip re: Ikea boards.
Just fixed a broken volume dial which my daughter snapped of a set Xbox wireless headphones.
Big thanks to @stumpy01 for the 3D printed parts 🤗
Photos are in the reverse order but I'm posting with my phone.
Fixed the Shark vacuum cleaner using just the tools on my Swiss Army Knife Tinker Deluxe. It now sucks just like it did when new and the wife is happy after questioning why I had bought the SAK 🙂
@citizenlee - nice one. Pleased that the repair seems to have worked!
I set the preload on the collapsible spacer on the pinion bearing of my XC90 rear differential after hours at work today.
The official Volvo/Ford/Landrover tools are very expensive but I made them myself from a chopped down socket and a quad bike wheel adaptors.
The pinion preload is very difficult to set correctly and if it you go beyond the value the bearings and crushable spacer should be replaced and the procedure started again. Its why the differentials fail in the first place.
Thankfully I got it spot on and the rest of the differential and Haldex unit can now be reassembled.
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MrsP has a phone holder in her car that has a sprung sliding clamp. Except it stopped being sprung so wasn't much use for holding phones. I prised apart the mechanism and found that the two plastic lugs that fix the end of the springs had broken off, so drilled a couple of small holes and glued in some small lengths of copper wire. Reassembled and it's a functioning phone holder again.
Had to sort out a leaky pipe under the sink recently. It turned into a bigger job than I thought 🤪 ended up replacing a section and re-sealing all the joints. Bit stressful at first, but pretty satisfying once the drip finally stopped.
Chez Sandwich was wired by an "electrician" with a tenuous grasp of the 17th edition regs. Yesterday I thought I would sort out the pendant fitting that had blue and brown cables showing below the rose. What should have been a 5 minute job required a new rose and pendant plus making sure the cables were in the rose terminals not joined with off-cuts of terminal blocks, earth sheathing was added too as it was optional for the technician. Rawplugs in the ceiling ensured the mechanical fixing to it was better than before. Then the pendant wouldn't fit the lampshade, a 50mm holesaw eased that. Just over an hour to put it all right. Just another 10 to check and put right.
I was lightening a flywheel and in a moment of utter stupidity turned the wrong handwheel on the milling machine and crashed the tool into the work piece. Result: stripped a load of teeth off the gear on my rotary table.
These cost a fair bit so repair was worth a try
I turned down the damaged section of the gear
Made an 8.75mm spacer to drop the gear down onto the undamaged teeth. The hole pattern was not regular spacing which was a PITA.
Fitted back on to the bottom of the table.
Now it's all back together and working perfectly.
Nothing too technical but I've been on a decent run recently
CD tray eject drive belt on my Denon - diagnosed by Dr Google, new belt ordered but a bit of a pain to fit to get over the tiny little wheels inside, until I remembered to dental picks in my bike toolbox for removing forkseals.
Relaid my bathroom floor - mid price vinyl self adhesive 'planks' but surprisingly good, no joins visible and will last until we have the bathroom redone in a couple of year's time.
New door openers (gas struts) on the overhead horizontal bathroom cupboards; they had been getting worse and worse until now they had to be held open. I finally had enough, £3 each off ebay, why didn't I do that two year's ago?
But the recent big job (you'll see what I did there), three trips to Screwfix, was replacing the flush siphon in the low level cistern WC in the downstairs utility room. Should be a 10 minute job, but somehow in the wiggling out of the flush pipe for the siphon to go onto, I managed to dislodge the pan seal and thought that I might as well replace that and the pipe as well....so second trip to SF. And then trying to get it together needed the pan moving so it all fitted together in one go, which then meant the seal to the soil pipe gave up. And another trip to SF and the toilet in parts all over the floor.
Meanwhile, I'd told my wife initially 10 minute job but allow 30 mins max and then we'd go out and get coffee and cake. Fortunately Screwfix is only 5 mins away, but even then it took best part of 3 hours. I felt like a winner, even if she was less impressed.
Microwave was making an alarming, loud buzzing sound. Wife instructed me to order a new one from IKEA - £420 +£50 delivery. Popped the lid and (with online assistance) diagnosed knackered magnetron - £68 and 10 minute job. How cool a part name is a 'magnetron' 😀
Flap on the charge port of wife's VW ID.3 wouldn't close, or would close and wouldn't open - £28 and another 10 minutes 'work'. Quoted £150 repair at dealer, but part not available 🧐
Brand new flatpack two draw filing cabinet - MrsF ordered it to file her late mum and dads legal stuff. Come to assemble and one side is missing the 'plastic' inserts for screwing in those bolts you lock together with those half moon captive nuts. I'm left with two big holes and this is an essential cross member. Right, what have I got... matchsticks and glue, hotmelt ? Whilst searching for the hotmelt glue, spotted rawl plugs. Cut off most of the plug and hammered the widest end into the hole. Job's done. Would have been a pain to return.
Random selection from the last month or so.
Replaced element in the oven (a week before xmas!!!)
Helped to swap the roof on daughter's boyfriend's MX-5 after some arse decided to smash the rear window.
Sewed new ankle zips into the back of a pair of cycling tights. A proper faff to do, but a couple of quid on zips seemed better than £££ on new tights.
The pad had come mostly unglued in a my thermal winter bibs. Managed to sew it back in, and the 1st test ride suggests I've managed to do it in a way which hasn't left an irritable seam - win! I don't need bibs this warm too often, I've had them a while but hardly worn them, so didn't want to splash out on a new pair if I could avoid it.
I had another thread about the stench my Mini was making, a coolant flush (on boxing day!) seems to have resolved it.
Bought a 2nd hand but unused rowing machine from Facebook marketplace for £50 (350 new). The computer wasn't registering the rowing strokes and it was missing a bolt. I happened to have the right size bolt in the garage, it just needed angle grinding down to the right length. After a bit of a look over it, I spotted that they'd fitted the seat back to front which meant the sensor was on the wrong side, I swapped it over and the computer is now working properly.
One more. The washing machine had started to wander across the room. I opened up the filter to see if there was anything blocking it.
As well as the usual makeup swabs, I found a dollar bill.
We've not been to the states for years...
Fridge stopped refrigerating, compressor worked but wouldn't get below 10C. Integrated unit so a world of pain to extract and then realign the door, etc.
Gambled on a thermostat kit which paid off with a very easy fix.
Converted a wardrobe into a standing workstation for Mrs timba. Fold-out work table, lots of shelves. If she wants to sit down then she'll have to decamp to the dining room, but I don't pretend to be perfect 🤣
The flap of the cat flap was sitting too low, catching at the bottom and not shutting properly. Looked at the hinge areas and saw there was scope to fit something in to lift it up. Ten minutes later a CAD model was sent to my son to make use of the 3D printer that he got for Christmas and 30 minutes later they were printed, fitted and cat flap fixed.
Mrs T-R car - After I ripped off the fuel lines and fuel cooler on some snow/Ice the other week.
Trailrat, if a car gets used a lot in deep snow or off road there are various protections from these people:
https://www.protectionsousmoteur.eu/protection-sous-moteur-metallique
I've equipped the car I lend to junior, I'm just careful. 🙂 The only downside is it adds half an hour to an oil and filter change.
When he did the Mongol rally in a 205 I bolted bits of plate over anything that could get ripped off.
oddly the car actually has steel bash guards all over the front and all the moving bits up there from factory - the fuel cooler is recessed inside the sill depth directly under the drivers seat - it shouldnt theoretically be possible for it to get caught - as the bash plates should have done all the "bashing" already
Unsure if i may have caught other debris or otherwise but the wind driven snow drifts on our road were 3-4 feet the other week so potentially bellied it who knows.
My Karcher pressure washer, which sprung a leak after the cold snap we had a couple of weeks back.
Pulled the cover off, couldn’t spot anything immediately, so switched it on and got a high pressure jet in the face from a hairline crack in the outlet elbow. £17 spare part and it’s fixed.
Guess what my Karcher is doing? It's good to know that it's an easy fix.
Did you replace the outlet elbow with the steel one that Karcher sell. Had to do this to our K4 a few years back as the hose kept popping off.
Literally replaced the yellow insert and seal on the power lance this weekend as it was getting impossible to get on as the plastic had swollen. Top tip, remove the yellow plastic insert and ream it out a little - just watch the rubber washer. My inserts were knackered so bought the Karcher kit. Also picked up a new 10m hose (not a karcher one) so we will see how long that lasts.
Fixed my Tacx Flow T2240. Not used it for a fair few years, since getting back to commuting by bike after covid. Had to use it last March/April as recovery from a broken pelvis and hip socket. Used it a few times but it was making a right racket under low load (flat or downhill). Come this last few weeks, it's really noisy (using it because of ice). Quick google suggests that the case might be slightly mis-aligned from 'storage'. Nip back into the garage and take a look. Low and behold, the two halves of the case aren't quite clipped together in one part of the circumference. Click and it's back in place, and it's been quiet since.
Does anyone else find that repairing one thing leads to another?
On recent jobs:
The switch on the angle grinder stuck while making up a bracket. Half and hour to dismantle and blow out all the dust from cutting bricks.
The drill went on the blink drilling into the bricks. Shorten cable which had broken from years of flexing.
Using the electric plane the cable snagged on the work, flipped up and got planed - find cable salavaged from a dead appliance and change.
Drop tiny wood working hand plane. The cast iron breaks in two. Get out the oxy-acetylene, braze the two halves back together, clean up, reassemble and maybe two hours later continue the original job.
Clean the limescale off the kettle element but the limescale was the only thing stopping it leaking so dismantle, fix the leak and reassemble.
Does anyone else find that repairing one thing leads to another?
Er, you replied to my thread about the vintage motorbike tyres earlier?
Yeah. That. 🙃
Did you replace the outlet elbow with the steel one that Karcher sell. Had to do this to our K4 a few years back as the hose kept popping off.
Literally replaced the yellow insert and seal on the power lance this weekend as it was getting impossible to get on as the plastic had swollen. Top tip, remove the yellow plastic insert and ream it out a little - just watch the rubber washer. My inserts were knackered so bought the Karcher kit. Also picked up a new 10m hose (not a karcher one) so we will see how long that lasts.
I didn’t get a steel one, replaced it with the standard plastic. I got a 10m hose last year too, which is great, no more hauling the pressure washer around the patio or cars on wheels that don’t turn
Guess what my Karcher is doing? It's good to know that it's an easy fix.
I did a bit of YouTube research before having a go, it looks like there’s a few different things that go wrong mostly split pipes and o rings failing. Pulling it apart is a bit fiddly and you need a torx not an Allen key
Hubby bought some jeans from Vinted, sold as new with tags. They definitely were not new. The hems had been sewn up, unpicked and dropped back down. The hems were frayed and dirty. One wash later and some expert sewing by me and all repaired and ready for another life.
Replaced the capacitor in my Rega turntable, and it’s back to normal speed, so out with the vinyl for the rest of the afternoon. 😊
Not quite a repair, so much as an upgrade. When I had my carbon arrows made up, I opted for SpinVanes for the fletchings, which are a fairly complex type of setup, in that they’re taped in place, with tape wrapped around an extension at each end. Trouble is, they have a crease along the bottom edge, and I’ve had one tear off, and found a couple more with splits, so I’ve bought a fletching jig, and a packet of conventional vanes, and tried my first attempt at fletching my own arrows.
I won’t have chance to try it until next weekend, our club range is sodden at the moment, and shooting in the rain isn’t much fun, but it’s looking good so far.
Easy to tell the vanes apart, the SpinVanes are dayglo orange.
Just to add, to avoid confusion, arrow fletchings traditionaly were feathers, so were called flights, but with synthetic ones, while you still fletch arrows, they’re more commonly called vanes now, and sold as such.
When a sport has a history going back several thousand years, materials change and so do names, which brings in elements of confusion; points were usually called piles, but it’s easier to call them points. 🤷🏼♂️
points were usually called piles, but it’s easier to call them points.
Nobody wants to win a bunch of piles. 😁
Water bill showed we used over double our normal usage in the last quarter…
Our house is 350m from the meter so I called out the leak detector. He took all of 10 minutes to find the leak.
The previous owners who laid the pipe used an inferior product with a thinner wall that is prone to cracking.
So that left it to me to dig up the pipe. It’s a bit awkward because the phone and power lines are collocated. Easy enough to dig without damaging anything, easy enough to cut the pipe. But an anger fest trying to fit the joiners and get them done up tight.
Dug it up on Friday. Fixed and backfilled on Saturday.
Reeksy, good work, I work with water and leaks! what method was used to find your leak and it is main or private pressure? Thanks C.
I patched my first, and very large, plasterboard hole in a ceiling last week. Caused by a plumber replacing pipes in the room above. Lived with it covered with cardboard for a year. It took bloody ages due to drying times, having to keep revisiting the job due to mess and location, but the look on my kids face when he did a double take and said ‘what, where’s the hole gone!?’ Made it all worth it.
But my proudest moment was regaining my VW T4’s 1st & 2nd gears in an emergency while driving back from holiday, utilising the small tin lid to a jar of anchovies and a couple of zip ties.
This guy uses a stethoscope thing with a box that beeps (that’s my technical description!). We fitted a valve the first leak we found (maybe 10 years ago) so that he can pressurise the line and then presumably listen for the noise. He said he has about 60m range before another valve is needed. But on this one he said he’d try without and it turned out within 5m of the valve!
We’re on mains. Virtually the last house on it I think.
Neighbour called tonight to say there’s a leak on the other side of the meter so I guess I’ll check that in the morning. At least that shouldn’t be our responsibility.
I’ve bought a fletching jig, and a packet of conventional vanes, and tried my first attempt at fletching my own arrows.
I don't think I've ever owned arrows I haven't made myself. Fletching isn't particularly difficult.
I dug out my old kit the other day. Time has not been kind to my arrow staves, I think if I threw them out they'd come back.
... sorry, I've just read that back and it could sound condescending. That wasn't my intent. It's a satisfying thing to do.
@Cougar - when you’re starting from scratch, it’s enough getting all the rest of the equipment together, trying to fathom how to make up a set of a dozen arrows for a recurve bow before even being able to use it is too big an ask. These arrows are carbon shafts, a second set, and the SpinVanes I wanted are far too complicated for a beginner to try fitting, which is why I’m now replacing them with standard vanes I can easily set up with a jig.
Using SpinVanes was, in hindsight, really not such a good idea, and didn’t bring any significant benefit, running before I could walk, basically.
It is, as you say, quite a satisfying thing to do, especially when the weather’s as crap as it is!
I’ll set my bow up later, just to make sure everything is aligned correctly when nocked, then start working on the other ten - there should be a dozen, but one went under the grass while setting up sight marks, and the mower went over it before I could find it, and nicked the shaft in several places, it broke into pieces when I tried flexing it… 😖
£10.50 for a replacement bare shaft…
This is why I shoot wooden arrows. It's pence to repair when you hit a rock and blast the pile off. 😁 If you want modern arrows that bend then you want alloys and a straightening jig; with carbon... wait, this is a cycling forum right?
There is no way I would attempt to DIY spin vanes, I wouldn't know where to begin. They'd likely be spinning alright... !
This is why I shoot wooden arrows. It's pence to repair when you hit a rock and blast the pile off.
If you want modern arrows that bend then you want alloys and a straightening jig; with carbon... wait, this is a cycling forum right?
🤣 Well, there’s a reason the full sus bikes I rode were alloy…
I deliberately decided I didn’t want to shoot longbow, I didn’t want to faff around constantly making my own arrows, one of the beginners who started the same time as me went to longbow, made a lot of his own arrows, then went to the dark side and bought a recurve! I started with alloy’s, bent one hitting it with another arrow! I swallowed the advertising claims and went for SpinVanes, which I realised aren’t all that, and now I’m using carbons; the piles are easy to replace, they don’t bend when they contact, and they’re just as easy to fletch as wood or alloy, which I’m now learning; about time now I’ve been doing this sport for three years.
As far as I could tell, the primary reason to shoot longbow (at least back when I was shooting) was that so few others shoot it that you don't have much competition in your class at shoots. Though really, if that's your intention then you want an American Flatbow. 😁
A quick trip over to the club to shoot a few ends, just to see of my fletching is throwing up any issues, and it looks like I’m keeping the grouping reasonably close…
…except for one, but it was raining and I didn’t care too much, so straight back home, strip all the old fletchings off and clean all the sticky goo off the shafts, which took a couple of hours, and straight on with the rest, which took another three hours or so…
…and all seems to have gone smoothly, considering I’ve never done this before. 😁
@Cougar - yeah, possibly, although most members of my club aren’t really bothered about shooting competitions. We had a family of four who started when I did, and they all shot bare bow, there was the member who also started same time as me and went for longbow, then went over to recurve last year, and we had another beginner last year who shoots longbow, and we do have a couple of other members who shoot longbow, one of them also shoots recurve, and another recurve member is showing worrying signs of taking up compound!
I was interested in compound, until I realised a) how complicated they are, and b) how ‘kin’ expensive the damn things are! We have one member who comes along pretty regularly checking his sight marks, he shoots compound field archery, and he competes internationally; he’s got three bows, and another three or four, one of whom has represented GB successfully on a number of occasions.
I’m not interested in competing, although I do record my scores, see if I can get a few badges, but basically it’s more a mental health thing for me, gets me out of the house, we shoot indoors at the moment, then three times a week through the spring, summer and autumn, for a couple of hours or so, then over to a local pub after the evening shooting.
Keeps me occupied. 😎
This should possibly be its own thread. I know we have other archers here (including a beardy longbowman).
Microwave - again. New magnetron fitted and it should be all good for another 5-6years of abuse.
£70 to repair something that costs almost £1000 to replace (SMEG built in microwave combo oven) makes it worthwhile.
Magentrons in this spec are becoming hard to find - I had to get this one from Australia. The last one came from Russia…
These, sorta
Not repaired but managed to find the spare part so repair now possible. Cooker hood, halogen light, the door that pops down to change the bulb has started popping out/not locking in closed properly, so sooner or later will fail (*presumably) , anyway, Electrolux have run out of the part, some online digging and £45 per light box unit (sharp intake of breath as can get the whole hood on eBay for £118). and there are 2 of them. Further digging (and luck) and reading the small print means that I’ve found the preceding model of the light (it does fit) and it’s used in quite a lot of makes and they’re at preceding orices - £22 posted,