What size floorboar...
 

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[Closed] What size floorboards do I want?

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So I need to replace some rotten floorboards in my bathroom. It's a 50's council house with 22x115mm tongue and groove boards. My question is how do you know what size you are buying? The ptg seems to be described by the size it was before it was planed, not the finished size🤔
Can I get what I want off the shelf? If so, where? And what's it called?
Any help greatly appreciated


 
Posted : 20/01/2021 3:32 pm
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Only place I could get boards some where near what my son had in his 1950's house was from B&Q

https://www.diy.com/departments/maritime-pine-floorboard-l-2m-w-140mm-t-21mm-pack-of-5/1854013_BQ.prd

expensive for what it is, but it was the only place I could get and it from and was available


 
Posted : 20/01/2021 3:59 pm
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Thanks bruneep.
Shameless bump.... Any other ideas?


 
Posted : 20/01/2021 6:18 pm
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Local sawmill, if you can find one, or builders merchant. Floorboards are their stock in trade.
T&G is preferred as when nailed or screwed down it helps prevent cupping* 1" thick is standard, or likely a bit less, 22mm or so- due to planing, and about 5" is the standard width.
You can of course have any width, and narrower I think looks better.

Other options is hardwood like oak, but beware who you buy it from, because in the furniture trade we only really use class 1 A grade boards, which are about £35-40 a piece at 7-9" widths, usually about 10' long, 1" thick- Though a 1" thick board off saw(as in unplaned) is actually 28-30mm.
Some sell what they call as character oak, which really means its low grade, full of splits, shakes and knots and they try to charge you more than grad A, along that description. It's "Character" - No mate its bottom grade quality.

*Cupping is when the board bends across its width , due to drying and shortening of the rings. This can be countered by cutting long grooves in the back face of the board, as you often see in decking.
All boards will cup unless quarter sawn(An expensive process as it means less boards from the tree, and more time taken to saw), but usually the narrower the board the less pronounced it will be.

1" thick pine is good because 1" thick is a good insulator.
Narrower boards tend to be a bit cheaper.

Red softwood, is nicer than white softwood, though a little pricier.


 
Posted : 20/01/2021 6:55 pm
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dyna-ti has it covered.

Inch thick from sawmill or builders merchant.
As we've had the option to mill whatever size we want, the sawmillers barn was floored in 14" wide larch as less cutting and fixing made it a quick job and why not if you can. Replacements in our old house were with 10" wide Douglas Fir, no fancy cutting or shaping - it needs to cup to match the old boards 😄


 
Posted : 20/01/2021 10:57 pm
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With the same dilemma in mine I'm going to do exactly as I did downstairs and redo it in 2440x600x18 chipboard when I eventually do the bathroom. Too many knackered boards and has ply sheeting as it is to keep it flat.


 
Posted : 20/01/2021 11:50 pm
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Chipboard...in a bathroom...he asks incredulously 😕

Not exactly moisture resistant that stuff.

18mm ply and tile. Look the b0ll0cks.


 
Posted : 21/01/2021 12:21 am
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Chipboard…in a bathroom…he asks incredulously 😕

Not exactly moisture resistant that stuff

Except for the moisture resistant version I guess. 👍


 
Posted : 21/01/2021 5:48 am