thanks for that hadnt thought about texturing the co.pund to hrlp with tiling.
re the threshold I've actually got a 19cm step/drop into the room so I'm planning on raising the floor level as much as I can. Gone for 50mm marmox tile backer and will prob build up a subfloor under it with chipboard or ply not sure yet so hopefully the floor will be plenty insulated.
I have a few other bits and bobs for a sparky so probably try and get it all done at the same time
As an architect I have to say I would never recommend a wet room unless there was absolutely bugger all space (and I mean bugger all) or you were able to spend a fortune on a fail safe installation done by professionals, i.e not your regular installer. They are all very cool sounding and everything but have many disadvantages compared to a more 'normal' installation.
hadnt thought about texturing the <span class="skimlinks-unlinked">co.pund</span> to hrlp with tiling
the spiked roller smooths the compound, it doesn’t add texture. Self levelling is a myth, most levelling compounds need good trowel work then a spiked roller over them whilst wet to get the air out and to smooth off properly.
also important it to prime the surfaces before working, especially on cement boards as they will suck the moisture out of the compound or adhesive before it’s had time to work properly.
Ah, I understand, big learning curve. I've used mapei primer on the last floor I did with the levelling compound and it seems to be okay (well 2 months old so early days). I did do a bit of trowelling to get it across the floor, I assumed I'd mixed it a little too thick.
Where can I pick up a spiked roller? Is it called something different as its not appearing on good old screwfixes search.
When fitting a shower tray. Instructions say to lay on min 18mm ply but not what to fix it with for a suspended floor. It says cement for concrete. So if it is not specified would sealant be adequate? I plan to build up the remainder of the floor so its basically level.
I also can't see how even with a tray you can make the trap accessible? If it leaks, you are going to need to remove the tray, and if its cemented then that's not going to comeup in one piece.
(I've got a 28kg 1200x800 resin job)
unless you raise up the tray on a plinth or legs(which looks shit) the trap will never be accessible but thats never been an issue in the loads of bathrooms i've done. if its on an upstairs floor access is possible with a hole in the ceiling below.
getting a tray up in one peice is the least of the issues once the job is finished considering the tiles are also down onto the tray.
different trays say different things about fixing, one in my ensuite actually said it could be fitted with silicone but i'm not keen on that although a lot of plumbers do. most say bed on sand/cement, i used tile adhesive on mine, either will sort out the level of floors if they are out.
If you drop spiked flooring roller into google there’s plenty of options, it’s not an essential piece of kit but it helps.
re the shower trap, basically you can’t make them accessible. I make them up and test them plenty before installing the tray, if it helps, ground floor showers hardly ever leak, only upstairs ones 😉
you should lay the tray on a sand/cement mix according to instructions, but I always use tile adhesive as I have it in the van most of the time. Sand/cement is cheaper if you’re buying it.
As an architect I have to say I would never recommend a wet room unless there was absolutely bugger all space (and I mean bugger all) or you were able to spend a fortune on a fail safe installation done by professionals, i.e not your regular installer.
TBH I assumed the OP didn't really mean a wetroom in a true sense, rather that they wanted it all fully tiled floor to ceiling with joins / corners sealed to a wetroom standard so they could effectively have the shower more open plan without worry whilst still having the shower screened to contain most of the water. 3.7m2 is a reasonable size bathroom in my book and I doubted they'd be wanting to spray water everywhere.
Probably worth saying that this is what I did and I'm now having a door put on the shower. OP If you are intending open shower then consider the type and orientation of your floor tiles and where the water might run. You'll be surprised how far the shower water can spray and then spread. I went with narrow wood effect plank tiles and find that water accumulates inbetween the tiles in the grout groves (lowest point) and then makes it's way across the bathroom in the grout groove. Despite wanting a wetroom finish and open shower, I didn't intend water spreading across the floor everyday. or I came to realise it wasn't particularly desirable.
Yes you are right always was going to have a screen. was planning on a former but have now gone with a tray based on feedback. I plan to raise the floor up to get as level as I can.
I've gone for a 1200x800 tray with an 800 screen with a 300 flippy return thing bit like a mini door which I can choose to fit or not. I've also got the added complication of a window partially in the shower area so have a 400 screen I need to find a way to cut down (hoping a local glass company could do it for me....coulc be wrong...)
I plan to tank the area all round the shower. there is evidence of water ingress from the old bath / electric shower.
I also went for the electric flooring recommended above and marmox board. expensive and possibly over doing it for a shower room but I'd rather it worked.
and just to make sure it's about as hard as it can be I went with a concealed shower with body jets (just been reading up on pressure loops) and a concealed cistern wall hung toilet.
I plan to go for fairly large format marble effect tiles as I'm hoping it will make the room look bigger. I really like the wood effect but think they might make the room seem smaller.
i was going to mirror the entire top section of the wall but went for a demister / led all in one unit. might see if I can set it into the wall so it's flush
not decided on lighting and won't make a call on the ceiling insulation till I take the ceiling down.
I've also got to mount the soil onto a cast iron waste over an asbestos roof so no option to replace or move at this stage.
lots of problems to solve!
Why not put a stud wall in for the pocket door? Takes up little more room than a external sliding.
that's not a bad idea. it would mean on side of the door would be further out than the other but it probably wouldn't notice. hmmmm.
So, 2 days in and the strip out is complete. Bit knackered tbh
Heres the progress, suite out, all tiles and adhesive stripped, ceiling down and joists cleaned up:
(still can't work out how to embed)
The joists are 5 x 2 at around 33cm apart. So I'm going for 50mm kingspan which should give plenty of space for ventilation and hopefully I will notice the difference vs no insulation at all!
uncovered a chipboard vent hole in the wall where the shower is planned to go, behind this is a large airbrick. So I plan to build a vent from a ceiling fan to the hole and through to the airbrick(this will be boxed in as I've gone for a concealed shower. It will be a short run, but have 3 90 degree bends - hopefully this will be fine, well its better than what was there before.
The roof timbers look in good nick, but some blackening in places, possibly old water ingress. Certainly ceiling 2 and 3 were in good nick when I took them down. Original ceiling was a bit mouldy but still solid.
Whilst the roof is exposed is it worth painting any sort of waterproofing on the underneath ? i was expecting sheet ply to be honest not what looks like floorboards!
I also need to work out how to get rid of all the waste - I have a bathroom suite, 3 x 3.6m2 of plasterboard and approx 18m2 of tiles. Any idea if a hippo bag would do it? I have loads of people round in a few days so ideally need to get it shifted quick
Couldn't get the sheet materials delivered until the 15th so other than a bit of prep work the projects on hold till then
