MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
We will be in touch
Sheds seem to be an eternally popular subject on here, so I thought I'd share my progress from the weekend starting to build my own.
I'm afraid it's not as exciting as many on here without any revolutionary design, architectural wizardry or display any incredible woodworking skills, but it should do the job.
Idea is for it to be big enough to store about 5 bikes hung vertically on one wall, a workbench on the opposite wall, and hopefully my milling machine at the end. Should be comfortable to get bikes in and out plus work in there too. Currently all of my bikes and tools etc are in the spare bedroom and it's time to migrate them out. Needs to be pretty secure and I don't want it to be too much of an eyesore either.
Roof panels omitted for clarity. Major material for construction will be 2"x4" timber and 18mm OSB3 panels. Clad with deconstructed fence-panels and a grass roof. No windows and a chain going through the floor concreted into the ground below.
Carrier bags in the background contain the earth removed from the holes, which will go on the roof, plus a load of compost
1st set of boards on the roof
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I was sure that I had measured the width of the boot and worked out that my boards would fit, but clearly I hadn't! Fortunately the roof-bars served their purpose although handling 36kg 1220x2440 boards single-handed is a challenge...
Base support structure with board to check squareness
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Braced structure, trial fit
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Selection of power-tools. Impact driver certainly a good purchase
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Staple/nail gun saved loads of time
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Trusty circular saw
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Posts creted in, base frame fixed down, first board attached
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3rd board on and cut to correct width, plus frame of back wall being assembled
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Fence-panel disassembly for cladding
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Slightly damp cladding drying in the sun
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Cladding being nailed onto what will be the back wall
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Back wall all ready to be moved into position, only problem being that it's now too heavy for me to lift
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Overall, pretty pleased with progress so far, should have it pretty much finished over the next 2 weekends I hope, along with many more trips to Wickes. I would have made more progress but I cleared out their stock of 2"x4"x2.4m timber.
More to come!
Cheers, Rich
Nice work. Looking to do something similar here so bookmarked 🙂
Why the fence panel cladding? Stuff you had lying about or just a good price for the materials?
Also what's the thinking behind the grass roof?
Stoner - looks like your shed was slightly wider, but the interior layout will be very similar. I'll be looking for hooks but need to make sure they are compatible with deep carbon rims.
MrBlobby - fence panels seemed to offer good value for the materials and easy to get hold of. 2 panels of 1.8x1.5m (5.4m2)covered the entire back wall which measures 3x2.4m (7.2m2) with less overlap, so it should take about 7 panels for the whole shed.
There are a few reasons behind the grass roof - firstly I want to minimise the visual impact, thus a green roof instead of a black one should be less of an eyesore, especially for our upstairs neighbours. I also think there may be an improvement in security, as there will be a considerable weight of soil/vegetation on the roof, so not as easy to just pry off a panel to gain entry. Insulation should stop it getting so warm inside compared to sun heating up a traditional roof. I also like the idea! Going to have trelis up the front to get some creepers going, and perhaps something along these lines:
Cheers, Rich
Thanks, nice that. Need to do anything with drainage for the roof?
Still thinking about how to store the bikes here. It'll be a smaller size (mostly to store a few bikes and free up space in the big shed.) So thinking maybe a big chest high deep shelf the size of the shed to store stuff on top of (wheels, spares, tubs of kit, tool boxes, etc) with half a dozen bikes slotting in underneath. Be nice to have a space to hang bikes and wheels separately too. Need to think about that one.
Haven't you forgotten the concrete for the chain?
From what I've read, some gravel and drainage holes at the low end of the roof takes care of excess rainwater. Plenty of info on the web about live roofs. It'll probably be a combination of some spare bitumen sheeting which some builders left in our garden and some pond-liner to keep the roof watertight.
Chain is concreted into the same hole as the middle back post. You can just about make out the chain on the ground in photo #8 and then it poking up through a hole in the board in the next couple of shots.
Cheers, Rich
Stoner - Memberlooks like it's coming along.
FYI this is one of my old sheds, with the "herringbone" hanging of bikes, I used some 45deg blocks to set the wheel hooks at the right aspect.
I have done this in the garage, but need to change them about as the bikes actually stick out further than I anticipated (should have measured beforehand).
I used Arris rail (from Wickes) to get the hooks mounted at 45degrees.....think I've got a pic on Flickr somewhere......
Pic/day, so not terribly informative as I was being ahem, 'arty'....
[url= https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7296/12755906233_b7cefc4070_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7296/12755906233_b7cefc4070_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/krcmvP ]13-10-20 DSCN5261[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/me96kka/ ]STW stumpy01[/url], on Flickr
I'd not really thought of storing the bikes with the handle bars turned 90 degrees
I'd always assumed it was a faff, but I guess it doesn't take any more than 60 seconds with an allen key to do it and doesn't affect anything
I'm planning to have the bikes hung alternately by front and back wheels, so the bars shouldn't interfere with each other too much. That's the idea at any rate, we'll see how many I can fit in comfortably without them being a pain to get in and out.
Cheers, Rich
Chain is concreted into the same hole as the middle back post.
I see now, Worried you might have had to cut through floor to pour concrete!
Top Shedding! 😉
Looking like it'll be a nice project, nothing beats working in the garden on big man sized projects in the sun.
I'd maybe consider some beefing up of your ground work though. A green roof ends up weighing quite a bit (especially when wet) and with a milling machine in there as well the floor joists are going to be taking quite a bit of weight.
More supplies last night - the challenge being can I fit as much wood as I could fit on the trolley into the car....
Ratchet-straps to the rescue
Boot not far off being closed 🙂
Got virtually all the lengths of wood now, I think I'll have the remaining boards delivered to save some effort.
Regarding the strength of the floor joists, I'm pretty confident that they'll be fine. The supports which span the width only support the floor, not any weight from the roof. The mill (which is fairly light as milling machines go) will sit on a bench which spans the width, thus the load will go straight to the corners. Same with the roof, the loads will come straight down to the posts. The way the wall panels are constructed means that the joists which span the length of the shed are in effect doubled-up, and the OSB boards will add rigidity too.
Point loads in the middle of the floor would be another matter, certainly.
Support posts are 2' deep and about a spade-width square into pretty firm ground, so hopefully they won't sink!
Cheers, Rich
Quality thread. It doesn't help now ,but I wish you'd had all that timber delivered.
And timely reminder from stoner and stumpy re the 45degree blocks, just about to rearrange my "fleet".
Sorry for the hijack but,the one thing I'm concerned about hanging my bikes in the shed is that it gets very hot and on two occasions my fork seals have lost their oil.....maybe the seals were on their way ,maybe not .
Anyone else?
I was all set to have all of the timber delivered on a day when I had to stay home to wait for a passport to be delivered, but discovered that bulky items took about a week longer than normal stuff, so I decided to buy in bits as and when required. As Wickes only deliver to kerbside according to their website, I'm not sure I'd fancy moving ~half a tonne of wood singlehanded to the back of the house in one sitting :O
Cheers, Rich
If you compress the forks every now and again, this shouldn't be an issue senor j, as it must take weeks for oil to 'dry out'.
Shed looking good OP!.
Looking forward to more pictures mr ferret , if I was local I'd offer to help lift the panels.. 🙂
Cheers Nobeer - when they leaked it maybe looked worse than it was...
More progress this weekend, pretty pleased with how it's going and how quickly.
Lifted the back wall up, not particularly easy single-handed as it's pretty heavy. Bits of timber pivoted on the sides meant that I could lift it up gradually and they would act like ratchets to stop it falling back. Side wall being constructed on the base.
Side wall up
Side wall panelled
This is as close as I could get to the side of the garden
Front wall structure up - easier to erect the skeleton and then add the boards in situ
Roof supports placed on
Another trip to Wickes to get the remaining 8 boards I needed. To assist with moving these without assistance my EVOC bike bag donated its wheels temporarily and I made a little trolley. Made the shifting much easier!
Starting to board the front wall
Front wall complete
I did realise after this that I'd made a mistake, as the boards were meant to go to the top of the roof supports, so I should have notched the boards before installing. Not a major issue, I'll just have to add some extra bits to fill in the gaps.
Side wall progressing and doorway
Side wall nearly finished, just need to make the door and hang it
I still need to get a couple more fence panels as I currently only have enough cladding for the front and half a side. One downside of adding the panels after the frames is that I need to clad them when vertical instead of horizontal. Much easier to just place the cladding when gravity isn't working against you, but the nail/staple gun makes it fairly simple.
Did have a bit of a mis-hap trying to lift a board up onto the roof, which decided that it much preferred being on the ground, leaving me with a nice bump on the head 😳 I may need to rethink my strategy for getting them up without incurring further injuries!
I also had a re-think about the grass roof. Researching sedum which is the typical plant for living rooves works out quite expensive, but I think the amount of soil I'd need to prevent grass from drying out and dying in the summer would be considerable, and it might just turn into a horrible mess. I've bought some normal roofing felt although I might revist the green roof idea again in the future.
Hopefully make a bit more progress this weekand it'll start to look less like an eyesore.
Cheers, Rich
Nice work, im moving house end of june and will need to build a shed!
so gatehering ideas. Just be careful any shed over 2.5m high this close to boundary will require planning permission! you shouldn't have an issue until you sell up and solicitors ask to see the permission!!
senor j - MemberQuality thread. It doesn't help now ,but I wish you'd had all that timber delivered.
And timely reminder from stoner and stumpy re the 45degree blocks, just about to rearrange my "fleet".
Sorry for the hijack but,the one thing I'm concerned about hanging my bikes in the shed is that it gets very hot and on two occasions my fork seals have lost their oil.....maybe the seals were on their way ,maybe not .
Anyone else?
Bit late, but just seen this. What forks are they? My Reba's (2008)pour all their oil out when inverted. Apparently it was a problem with one of the O-rings being specced a bit small on the damper side.
I've bought an o-ring kit off ebay with a larger o-ring that apparently cures it, but haven't had the chance to strip them down yet.
If the leak is from the actual wiper seal - it could be they need replacing; I've only had oil appear from the internals - so past the U-turn on one leg (where the valve comes out the top of the leg & damper side where the lockout twiddler comes out the top; never from the wiper seal/stanchion inteface itself.
Good progress, turboferret!!
Mighty impressive DIY skills there and looking good.
Question about the door location, (based on your CAD picture). When you open it are you going to be walking directly into or having to avoid the handlebars of the first bike or is there enough room? Could you locate the door at the right hand end of that wall to allow max space for the first bike and maybe improving access?
How tall is it? Looks tall, did you think about planning etc. or just decide to crack on?
Have you thought about ventilation/condensation? Thinking with the boarded walls it'll be fairly airtight (as sheds go) and especially if the roof is covered with soil etc. it might keep it cool = condensation on the ceiling?
Also, how are you lighting it for workshop/mill use? Something else to think of - if the answer is "LED"/"fluro tubes" be very careful, these often operate with a high speed flicker - dangerous with a fast spinning mill (or other tool) as it can appear to be stationary when it's not.
In my old shed i used to remove the front wheel and replace the skewer, this meant the bars were parallel to the top tube and you could fit them closer together. I prefer fitting a wheel than adjusting a stem and bars (i always have trouble getting ghe straight)
Re: planning - the shed is 2.4m tall, the length of a standard board, so I think it sneaks under the planning restrictions. However, the way I've built it means it should be fairly easy to dismantle from the inside, and depending on where we move to next, I may very well bring the shed with me 🙂
On the access front, yes, bars will be in front of you upon opening the door, as can be seen from this top view from my SoldiWorks model
However, the bike which will be right next to the door will be my commuter, so drop bars and not as wide. I don't have that modelled at the moment, but I don't think it's too much of a concern.
The door is massive though, a full 1.2m wide, so access shouldn't be a problem.
I can also juggle the angle and position of the bikes to a certain extent if the one closest to the door does become an issue. I think it's going to be pretty much ideal for grabbing the bike I'll be using most and heading straight out the door.
I'm putting my new cheap Halfords toolchest to the right of the door, so moving the door would stop that!
Cheers, Rich
The door is massive though, a full 1.2m wide, so access shouldn't be a problem.
Good idea to future proof the door width, that way you'll be fine when, in 12 months time, 800mm bars are considered narrow!
With more rain forecast, I wanted to get the roof on, at least temporarily to stop the inside getting totally waterlogged. Although I'm using OSB3 boards which should be pretty damp resistant, I didn't want them swelling up like sponges at cut edges, regardless of how much creosote I'd painted on.
To avoid further incidents of contact between falling boards and my head, I rigged up a slightly less dangerous method using some ratchet straps. At least if they slipped and fell they should go sideways or flip over, not slide straight down towards me!
As you can see from the shadow inside after fitting the first board the 2.4m long board isn't long enough to cover the sloped roof and overhang, so there will be an extra section at the front
2nd board half-up
Fully up without any decapitation
Temporary half-board at the end
I had a half-board already cut but not wide enough to give me the required overhang over the side, so this is just temporary for the moment. I'll get the circular saw out to finish off properly shortly.
I do of course realise now that since I've left a gap at the front of the roof, any water falling will run down and drip straight down into the shed. I should have left the gap at the top instead of the bottom, which would mean that only a tiny percentage of water would fall inside 😳 Oh well, not much I can do about it now from the office...I'm sure it'll survive!
Cheers, Rich
Happy with progress today. Fixed cladding boards to the front wall:
And built the door:
Just need to clad each end, fit a lock to the door, and tidy up the edges of the roof felt 🙂
Also pictured is a ladder which I cobbled together from spare bits of wood to save buying one 😀
Cheers, Rich
A bit more progress this weekend, although the major amount of time spent isn't really visible, that being reinforcing the door and fitting the lock. Slight issue there being that since my door is about 120mm thick, I'll have to get a special long key cut as the standard one which came with the mortice is about and inch too short.
Door and wall partly clad:
Some pretification with hanging baskets:
The hole above the door is also filled, and the inside walls have had a quick coat of white emulsion. Need to finish the edges of the roofing felt but it's nearly ready to start getting filled up with rubbish 🙂
Cheers, Rich
Looks great. The fence panel cladding has worked very well.
I'm about to buy almost exactly his ready made - a 12 by 6 pent but with double doors at the front. How much do you think it's cost?
Cost estimate
15 x 18mm OSB boards @ £17/sheet - £255
7 x 1.8 x 1.8m fence panels @ £19/panel - £133
44 x 2.4m 2" x 4" @ £5/length - £220
12 x 3m x 2" x 4" @ £9/length - £108
Roofing felt + adhesive - £50
Screws/nails/staples - £40
6 x postcrete @ £6/bag - £36
Creosote - £15
Lock/hinges/handles - £50
Total ~ £887
I have ignored the additional tools I bought for the project as hopefully they'll get plenty more use in the future. The prospect of hammering all the nails or screwing all the screws in by hand does not fill me with delight!
Cheers, Rich
Nice work, fella.
How do you intend to finish the corners...?
The corners will have some of the strips which have been liberated from de-constructing the fence panels, which are pretty much the right size and I have a huge pile of them now.
Cheers, Rich
Matching colour(way), too.
nice windows 😉
Clearly natural light inside would be nice, but would make it very obvious what was being stored, thus presumably increase the chances of being broken into. I therefore decided that I would compromise daylight for security.
Hopefully a few fluorescent tubes will make it tolerable to work inside, and I'll probably have the door propped open too.
Cheers, Rich
[i] I therefore decided that I would compromise daylight for security.
Hopefully a few fluorescent tubes will make it tolerable to work inside, and I'll probably have the door propped open too[/i]
Just pin something to the wall:
Or use a glass treatment which inhibits viewing the contents, from the outside.
Maybe a giant TV would suffice 🙂
Regardless of how much one could see through a window, it would present an obvious way of attempting to break in. Bars and extra security would of course have been an option, but I also wanted to keep the whole thing relatively simple and cheap.
Cheers, Rich
[i]Bars and extra security would of course have been an option, but I also wanted to keep the whole thing relatively simple and cheap.[/i]
Aye, windows would be a nice touch, but I sympathize. Sometimes seems like you can't have anything these days for fear of someone, taking it.
My bikes live in the house, but believe me, I'd rather that wasn't the case. But one is particularly special, so it has to stay indoors and out of sight when not being used.
Finally ready to get my new cut-price Halfords tool-chest set into the shed 🙂
Also slapped an off-cut of lino down. Need to put a 2nd coat of emulsion on the walls at some point too as it's a bit patchy at the moment and doesn't look particularly smart.
Haven't put my hooks up yet, but did move my bikes out of the 2nd bedroom into their new home 😀
The moment the shed turned from a time-consuming project into something useful 8)
I really must put a handle on the inside of the door too as currently there is a very real chance of getting shut in with no means of escape 😮
Cheers, Rich
nice shed, and it's good to see how you made it.
One comment though, can people find your address by looking up the details linked to the car registration plate?
That is a good point, in case someone can I've obscured my reg.
Cheers, Rich
Not a huge amount of progress over the weekend as I was away, but I did screw a couple of hooks in yesterday evening:
The commuter closest to the door hangs pretty much exactly perfectly for grabbing easily and doesn't interfere with access. The tri bike isn't hung up yet as I need to dig through my spare wheels as a normal hook doesn't really work with a disc!
Longer chain required too for locking.
Cheers, Rich
normal hook doesn't really work with a disc!
Bungee round the frame, if that makes sense. Like the way some roof racks work. Hang it the same way.
More shed progress - the workbench is 90% done
Also used the bungee idea for my tri bike, works a treat 🙂
A bit more paint in a couple of areas, a few shelves and a permanent power supply and it's pretty much done.
Cheers, Rich
one addition to our shed was to clad the inside with rebar ,the 8 x 6 sheets.Tied the roof rebar to the wall pieces.
Wish I had done this before the last break in.
That looks top stuff mate.
We now have some shelves in the corner:
Got some funny comments from the neighbours yesterday as I was hoovering the lawn. I reckoned that large deposits of sawdust wouldn't do the struggling turf much good and it seemed the easiest method of removal 🙂
Cheers, Rich
Got some funny comments from the neighbours yesterday as I was hoovering the lawn.
I thought I was the only idiot that did things like that, thanks for the sanity check.
Once knew a girl who was found cutting the lawn with a pair of scissors after a night in the pub but I think this one has it beat. Tell me it was not a domestic vacuum.
Twas a domestic, Panasonic cheap version of a Dyson thing 🙂
Oh, I have got 90% through cladding the end opposite the door, however I need about 3 more strips of wood to finish off. Not particularly inclined to buy another entire panel only to use a fraction of it 😕
Cheers, Rich













































