Got my first longboard barrel this morning (honestly, more like a crap head-dip and only for a split second, but I'll still take it).
SM - which break.
Couldn't be ar5ed to spend ages waiting for the best set but this is just after I got out...
I genuinely got two birthday barrels. Cool!
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Out at the Ho!
Surf Mat - when were you at Swansea? Had an awsome surf competition (but nothing to do with the surfing) between Swansea & Plymouth in Newquay in 1988, were you there?
DB - a bit younger - I was there from 94 to 97.
Surfed for the Institute (despite being at the Uni!) because the Uni team went from good to a bunch of muppets that couldn't surf.
We beat Plymouth that year and won but mostly thanks to a couple of sh1t hot surfers like Rhino Thomas rather than my own efforts!
I was there 84 to 88, in the era of Paul Russell, lived out in Southgate with a guy who used to life guard at Perranporth (Sammy Mottart) & I was a honoury member of surf club due to circle of friends & ability to party 😳 couldn't even stand up but liked to paddle around on a long board for a laugh. 8) Great times & some how ended up as SU president too??
Surf Mat - when were you at Swansea? Had an awsome surf competition (but nothing to do with the surfing) between Swansea & Plymouth in Newquay in 1988, were you there?
I was there then surfing for Plymouth - good times:)
Hitman - it was truely one of the "it's the taking part that matters" weekends 😉 I was on an alcohol free bet at the time & we somehow ended up in the officers mess of RAF St Mawgan after the pubs closed....
DB - sounds like fun! The Student Nationals and the SW Champs (just the top 5 unis from the Nationals) were always great for maximum carnage!
just to add some variation, my local break is freshwater, Sydney (the next beach up from Manly). Last weekend was epic, 5/6ft and offshore for most of the day. I havent surfed for three months (hernia recovery) but went out for a paddle at Collaroy. Nice to get out and got a couple so happy enough. Massive storms have come through this week and evrything is windblown. Layne Beachly is a Freshwater local....awesome surfer and very short!
Easy - got some relatives in and near Sydney - spent a few months doing NSW in 1999 - got great waves at Newcastle and Byron but was a bit unlucky with the Sydney breaks - either flat or blow out!
Layne rips big time.
Layne Beachly is a Freshwater local....awesome surfer and very short!
Is there a correlation between this and myself being a terrible surfer and very tall?
I am the same height, age, almost the same weight as Kelly Slater and we "share" a similar (lack of) hairline.
However he could surf an iron bed better than I surf a shortboard..
Changing the direction of chat slightly but this seems like the thread with those in the know.
Been surfing during summer trips to north Devon and Gower with my wife, and hiring boards for week/weekend periods over the last couple of years. Really enjoying it but we feel it would be more cost effective to buy a board if I'm going to continue, whats the next step up from a foam top board? I'm thinking about a hardboard- something like a bic/nsp minimal size 7'6 ish...? I'm 5'9 and 11st. I know the popouts get a bad rep. Any suggestions from the hive?
Pete - might be worth seeking out a slightly longer but lighter custom board. NSPs and Bics are okay but they are heavy and flipping hurt if they hit you. They are also next to useless if you progress further.
My wife has an 8ft "glide" (made by Bunty) which is sort of a small longboard that's stable enough to progress on but turns enough to do "stunts" - I've had reos and floaters on it - very hard on an NSP/Bic.
Much as I hate to say it, there are many Chinese made "custom" (by that I mean foam core, resin skin) board going for around £200 or pick up a nearly new "named" board for similar money.
Another classic session just now.
What a ****ing classic 48 hours - big chunky waves yesterday morning , mid sized super fast barrellers this morning , small "skate park" waves just now. Shoulders now totalled, grin impossible to wipe off.
I'm thinking about a hardboard- something like a bic/nsp minimal size 7'6 ish...? I'm 5'9 and 11st. I know the popouts get a bad rep. Any suggestions from the hive?
If you're in North Devon, try and pop into the Gulf Stream shop. They'll be able to advise you about what's really right for you and then sell you a board that's made in the UK. Was in there a couple of weeks ago and they were selling stock mini-mals cheap.
Cheers for the advice. I'm in Devon often - wife's family are there - so might just pop in to Gulf Stream next time.
Thanks.
Swell picked back up again - off for surf number 6 in 5 days. This is rather fun!
Just back from an early one at bude. Bit closet at low tide but charging close outs can be fun sometimes. This swell has a bit of grunt behind it....
Jam - North end of Watergate was absolutely firing! My shoulders have gone on strike.
Surf has been good here as well, nice to get back in the water and its warm!!
Not sure if any of you guys are interested but I have a brand new epoxy South African Zimbali 6'6" surfboard for sale. Going to put it on ebay but thought I would let you guys know about it before hand. Dimensions are 6'6"x19"x23/8" (I think but will have to check). Its based on the blank of one of the pros boards but can't remember which one! Selling for £250
I had my first successful surfing trip (to Llangennith) this weekend after a few attempts and am now able to get to my feet and stay on the board consistently. Normally get to my feet and fall immediately. The first time I stayed on I was actually confused, why is this happening? I soon learned to enjoy it. Got to work on the getting strong enough to get back out again. I want more.
looking alright again for midweek. must have been the most consistent surf for a while...
Jam - indeed.
The week so far (been in every time)
Monday am - chunkyish, cleanish
Monday pm - picked up, cleaner
Wed am - properly big, slightly onshore
Thurs am - head high, super clean, got too windy offshore eventually but genuinely epic early on
Thurs pm - dropped a lot but super hollow
Sat am - very light cross onshores, picked right back up again, utterly classic
And more to come! It's not awful today but nothing special.
Surf firing again! Head high and clean just now at my local break!
