MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
We will be in touch
Finally got round to giving the MX5 some much needed TLC. As expected the rear arches were shot, but the sills looked ok.
However, once i attacked them with the flap disc all was not so peachy and the tin worm has been at play. 🙁
[url= https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7685/16453480554_3deb65169d.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7685/16453480554_3deb65169d.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/r4Woxd ]MX5 Sill Repair[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/people/53024284@N00/ ]windydave13[/url], on Flickr
I've fabricated new sections for the inner and outer sills but want to make sure the Tin worm stays at bay.
So whats the best Rust Stabliser/Converter?? Is Dinitrol RC800 worth the extra money or is there better out there!!
I'd rahter never have to do this job ever again. 😆
Bilt Hamber Deox is amazing stuff but it isn't a stabiliser as it dissolves the rust, which can leave you with severe pock marking if the rust is bad. I guess it depends what you're trying to achieve but this stuff fully removes rust.
I use Fertan to chase the worm off the land rover chassis
bilthamber or ditrinol both good reputations.
hammerite rust converter isnt worth the plastic tub it coems in dont waste your money.
cant beat cutting the rust out and welding in new metal though.
propper cleaning and getting some ditrinol into the boxed sections of the sills while they are open would be advised as well as ensuring all drain holes are clear or drilling new to let the shit out.
Cheers guys. I'll probably give the dinitrol a go.
All the major rot has been removed so there was something solid to weld back to, so anything left is just slight surface rust now.
I'm hoping to never have to do this ever again or not on this car anyway