Retro fitting vents to UPVC windows?

I believe retro fit kits are available, haven't used them.  likely a reasonable chance of cocking it up and needed to replace the frame.

also take a look at a standard kitchen / bathroom extractor assuming you have an external wall you can fit to.  more effort but probably a better solution

I’m sure there was a similar thread a while ago which may well help you. Good luck finding it though. 🙄

Cheers DT. Appreciated.

If you want some of these Vents drop me a message.

Stupid question but can’t you just open the window slightly if you want airflow?

You can retrofit if the window frames are all plastic, there are some videos on YouTube showing how to do it.

If you have metal inside the frames, it's apparently a lot harder.  I expect it's possible with a decent drill or vibrating multitool but the potential for slipping and damaging the frame is higher.

Report back if you do it. I was all set to get one of those PIV loft fans but once I did some reading up it was apparent I could do some passive stuff first, one of which was to cut a bit off the bottom of all the internal doors as they were all too close to the floor which prevents air circulating around the house, and another was to put trickle vents in all the windows (none of ours have then, even in the bathroom)

We just leave most of our upstairs windows open all year round, some lock with a 1 or 2" gap, the others I just fitted restricters on, so if someone climbed up with a ladder, they can't open it.

I'm on the west coast of the central belt, I'm not hardy enough to have open windows long enough during the winter.

Edit - internal temp got down to 6'C last winter. I had to put the heating on for 10 mins! 🤣🤣

Isn’t a trickle vent just having the window open permanently

Trickle vents do provide extra ventilation, even when closed.... so consequently are a source of draughts and heat loss, especially if it is windy. We're in Scotland too and would remove ours if I could and replace with alternative ventilation

@dmorts - just take the covers off and tape them up?

On the other hand, if you have condensation/mildew problems, they can be essential.

Ours caused draughts and the frames to become a source of condensation, negating the effect of the otherwise fantastic triple glazing.  I sealed them up on both sides. Last time I saw trickle vents in any European window was, erm, never. 

@hot_fiat

Since last year, all replacement windows in the UK should be fitted with trickle vents, unless it is proved the house already has adequate ventilation. And the ventilation requirements have been increased considerably.

It seems we are quick to identify a cold draught and block it up, and sit in our own fog of stale, damp air...to the point they've had to change building regs.

I've been guilty of that, hence three recently replaced windows not having trickle vents.  PIV without trickle vents is likely to push warm damp air into cold cavities where it may do more damage which is why I've not yet decided to put a unit in.

For all those wanting to block trickle vents I suggest you buy a relative humidity and co2 monitor. Rh should ideally be between 40 and 60% and co2 under 1000 ppm. High rh is likely to cause mould on cold walls etc and co2 is a good proxy for air quality. Monitoring levels will help show you when you need to open the windows to ventilate. PIV dosnt extract in wet rooms and supply in habitable rooms which is standard good practice for ventilation. As above it also has potential to force damp air into the building fabric where it will condense where it reaches the dew point.

Why do you think that trickle vents are needed?

Other failures could be causing excessive humidity and 6C internally won't be helping 🙂

The installation could be a problem, e.g. excessive gaps around the frame, adjustment of locks and hinges

Lots of cooking, washing, drying and little window opening

Problems with the building structure allowing damp, etc

Bottom line... check the simpler things if you haven't already done that

Average family of four,  can produce 14 litres of water vapour a day.  Its got to go somewhere, if you don't have trickle vents, you are likely to need background extractor fans or something.  There are only two of us and we only dry washing inside when a dehumidifier is running (normally dry outside) but we still have a bit of mould/mustiness and there is normally a couple of windows on the latch.

We currently rely on intermittent bathroom and kitchen extractors, and leaving windows 'on the latch'.  But thats not ideal for security as we live in a bungalow, and the older windows are all starting to seize up as it leaves all the window mechanisms open to dirt and weather (we are not far from the coast so get a bit of salt spray when its windy)

Had to fit some to get some works passed by building control.

Definitely one of the easier DIY tasks I've ever had to complete.

Fitted them on windows that open less chance of encountering metal, slight chance of catching the window. I just marked a line on the frame drilled a series of pilot holes then widened with a bigger drill bit.

The old adage measure twice applies for this job.

I also fitted PIV last winter, ignored my partners complaints about it being cold. Since fitting the PIV condensation has been greatly reduced.

MVHR is the answer....

Wouldn't worry about lack of insulation if your going round leaving your windows on the catch during winter high humidity periods -most of the winter round here .

I've adjustable trickle vents - due to location I've been allowed to fit(and have been signed off) adjustable/closable ones. We adjust them based on wind direction due to being very exposed but they do make a difference. When we first moved in we had no trickle vents at all and suffered a lot of condensation on the upstairs windows and mould behind curtains.  (same windows retrofitted vents)

Not had that since the trickle vents were fitted. MVHR is on the cards but finding a suitable location has been challenging.