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Log splitters.
 

[Closed] Log splitters.

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[#9616561]

A few of the reviews that I have read mention that the ram mechanism seems to be a very similar component across many of the models available from different manufacturers in the 1.5kW, 4ton bracket.

What do I need to look out for? It's for domestic use with foraged firewood, cut to approx 25- 35 cm lengths by myself.


 
Posted : 18/10/2017 11:28 pm
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How much are you chopping if it’s just foraged? Wouldn’t you be better off just buying a decent 6lb splitting maul? Makes very short work of most stuff, even for a 11st weed like me.


 
Posted : 18/10/2017 11:34 pm
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I'm about to 'inherit' a 40' pine. The thought of mauling through it fills me with dread. The amount of wood it contains easily makes it worth buying a splitter.


 
Posted : 18/10/2017 11:51 pm
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I sold my log splitter after buying a Fiskars splitting axe. I found it much quicker and easier.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 5:12 am
 Drac
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Pine splits easily. You can do a 40’ one within a couple days of with a maul. Save your money.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 6:05 am
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I asked about these a little while ago.

I didn't get one!

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/small-hydraulic-wood-splitters


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 6:38 am
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The one I have works well, I expect all the similar ones do too. It's rated 5T, I suspect he only difference is the point at which the safety valve releases so you may as well buy 5T rather than 4T.

I used to be happy with a maul but carpal tunnel syndrone, painful shoulder tendons and trigger finger mean I now prefer the splitter. Using the maul no doubt contributed to those problems. Look after your body and get a splitter, your older self will thank you.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 6:41 am
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Hire one for a weekend ?


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 6:41 am
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I use one of these

http://www.mowermagic.co.uk/acatalog/smart-splitter-log-splitter.html

Works very well and saves back injuries 😉

JeZ


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 7:01 am
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As I posted in the other thread, I'm a total convert. I felt like I sold my soul when I bought it, as I was all for the manly maul option. Since I bought it, I honestly haven't picked up the maul once!

That said, I do split quite a bit of random hardwood, the sort of stuff that doesn't split easily. If I had a load of 8" ash then I'd probably use the maul, which is definitely quicker for easy to split stuff.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 8:19 am
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Ambrose in one year's time:

"For sale: one lightly used log splitter. Cluttering up my garage so must go."

As others have said, a mawl is the answer. Absolutely devastating if used correctly and a joy to use too.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 8:37 am
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Avoid mauls, get a splitting axe. Lighter faster and nicer to use.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 8:43 am
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I too require a log splitter. what are the best recommendations for a splitter or axe that would be used a couple of times a week for splitting dried hardwood?
Cheers in advance

M


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 8:46 am
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Fiskars X27


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 8:47 am
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Another shout for the X27 - very lightweight, good head design and a joy to swing.

Only a recent purchase for me after many years with a heavy maul. Every time I read reviews of decent mauls the Fiskars would pop up with lots of folk claiming it's the mutts.

It is. And a snip from FFX...


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 8:55 am
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nedrapier

Fiskars X27

I would suggest [url= https://www.worldofpower.co.uk/husqvarna-5769267-01splitting-axe.html ]this[/url] as an alternative. Similar money, but better performance and ergonomics imo. Personal preference but I found the Fiskars to be poorly balanced and I dislike the plastic handle.

[img] [/img]

I turned all of this (about 9 large cypress / pine)

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

Into all of this with mine.

[img] [/img]

...and loads more besides obviously. It gets used constantly. Great tool.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 9:46 am
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poorly balanced

I'm quite fussy and have no issue with mine.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 9:51 am
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Whatever you get, it'll be a lot easier, faster, and less tiring and put less shock through your body when it's sharp, so get a diamond file or sharpening stone for it if you don't have something already, and keep an eye on the edge.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 9:55 am
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I've got a maul, it's excellent.

I'd get a maul, a splitter looks like being £130, a maul is £20. Stuff a load of logs into a used car tyre and go at them, the tyre stops them flying around and you can do a good load within minutes, def faster than a splitter. Doesn't require much strength or stamina, and a used tyre is normally free from any garage.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 9:57 am
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[url= https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spear-Jackson-Razorsharp-Splitting-Hickory/dp/B005GCTCLK/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoors&ie=UTF8&qid=1508403868&sr=1-1&keywords=Spear+%26+Jackson+-+Razorsharp+6.5+lb+Log+Splitting+Maul+Hickory+Shaft+Carbon+Steel+Head ]This is the maul[/url] I got. Even a swing at 50% effort splits the main trunk of a 30ft sycamore we recently felled with ease. And my father in law has a splitter too – but the effort required to dismantle, bring up to my house, put back together, use, dismantle, take back to his wouldn't be worth the effort – by the time I had driven the 5 miles to his house, collected and brought back I reckon I will have finished chopping by hand anyway.

The only reason I'd consider a splitter would be if I, like my father in law, had a huge garden with multiple trees (he cuts down two or three a year) and get significant use out of it.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 10:07 am
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If I recall correctly Ambrose has a bad back, so t splitter may be the way to go. Myself I find the axe/maul good core exercise and my back likes it.

X17, X27 and Stihl 8lb pro cleaving hammer are my tools. Split 30m3 of mixed Arb waste in last 2 years. A small splitter would have dealt with the smaller and easier stuff but slower than the axes, and the twisted grain, gnarly assed pieces of 30" ash (ash is NOT always easy splitting) would have needed a much much bigger splitter that works vertically. I've learnt a lot on how to swing a maul to defeat these.... But still noodle some


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 10:18 am
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I recently had an oak tree taken down. I borrowed my Dad's electric splitter and a very old blunt axe. I ended up splitting most of the wood with the axe as it was so much quicker plus the splitter is a pain to use on your own.

The splitter was handy for a few knotty bits the axe wouldn't get through. However if I was doing it again I'd just use the axe.

I know need a chainsaw for all the knotty bits neither the axe of the splitter would get through...!


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 10:25 am
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Noodle those bits


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 10:42 am
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Noodle those bits

???


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 11:36 am
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get the chainsaw, you will understand. its the term for cutting down the gain, the saw cuts long noodles instead of chips


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 11:43 am
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Which makes great tinder.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 11:44 am
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get the chainsaw, you will understand. its the term for cutting down the gain, the saw cuts long noodles instead of chips

Thanks. Any other tips (like how to not chop my leg off) greatly appreciated!


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 12:11 pm
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I've had a wood stove for over 20 years and used various axes and mauls. Splitting wood is a very theraputic activity.
Had a couple of elm trees taken down two years ago and found it was the very devil to split. By chance I inherited a 5 tonne hydraulic splitter and that has helped a lot. It still won't touch some of the gnarlier bits, though. I had to reduce them down with a chainsaw first
The type of wood and it's moisture content is critical. Straight-grained softwood is fine with a splitter but some hardwoods are a different prospect.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 1:17 pm
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eucalyptus! Arg.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 1:20 pm
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I love my Fiskar axes so sharp you can sharpen even cheap nasty pencils or shave yourself but for splitting i love the grenades with a heavy long shafted hammer, two minimum, only 6£ each on Amazon just now and fast free delivery for us with prime


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 1:34 pm
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I inherited a 5 tonne hydraulic splitter and that has helped a lot. It still won't touch some of the gnarlier bits, though. I had to reduce them down with a chainsaw first
The type of wood and it's moisture content is critical. Straight-grained softwood is fine with a splitter but some hardwoods are a different prospect.
[I know the OP is asking about small splitters but] 5 tonne is not that big - I bought a 20 tonne machine and what it doesn't split it simply cuts straight through! Brilliant for the twisted, knotty stuff that comes in my big deliveries.

eucalyptus! Arg.
See above. I had a eucalyptus come down in the garden about 10 years ago and it's impossible to split with an axe if it's had any time to dry out - even my tractor mounted screw splitter couldn't do anything to it.
For fun I dug out one of the logs that I'd consigned to the 'unusable' stack (because I'd left it too long and it was too big to fit in the stoves) and chucked it on the splitter... went through it OK.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 1:57 pm
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Eucalyptus varies greatly like all woods, the stuff I've had had been some of the easiest to split.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 2:17 pm
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I got a wedge from the garden centre it would appear to be either an Ames True Temper 2414200 4-Pound Torpedo Wedge or good knock off . For splinting large logs with a sledge hammer it is disappointingly efficient the job is over before you have warmed up.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 2:19 pm
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impossible to split with an axe if it's had any time to dry out

If I ever needed a reminder I must split mine this weekend before it has time to start drying out.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 2:20 pm
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Maul and 'Wood Grenade' gets through almost anything.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 4:07 pm
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Ive got my eye on this 7 tonne one

[img] [/img]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OCX91NS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=P85DTW3L1VKQ&coliid=I11G7FPO1HUFDP


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 4:17 pm
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The problem with that is you have to lift a heavy log 3' up in the air.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 4:28 pm
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The problem with that is you have to lift a heavy log 3' up in the air.

have you ever used a log splitter? try bending over one for a good few hours splitting logs, the raised ones are much easier on the back.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 4:30 pm
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organic355 - Member
have you ever used a log splitter? try bending over one for a good few hours splitting logs, the raised ones are much easier on the back.

I haven't, but it does still require lifting a hefty log to at least waist height. The benefit of that axe / maul is that the log remains low. It does require some skill though it doesn't take long to get quite adept at splitting with a maul.

The OP has a 40' tree in 1' pieces, is that right? That's an hour or so with a maul, it'll take longer to stack everything.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 4:44 pm
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They have their place, and are good in certain circumstances. A bungee cord round a big log disc means you can split and rotate, lots quicker than picking up and reloading.

Also, if I spend a couple of hours with the mail, my tennis elbow gives me bother for ages after.

I currently have a load of cherry, been needing sit since last winter, neither the splitter or the mail will look at it, needs the big sledge and brass grenade to get it split.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 6:22 pm
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I've tried a few things, but nothing is better than making sure you cut the logs into 8-12 inch lengths with square ends and twotting it with a splitting axe.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 6:34 pm
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Just a slight hijack, whats the difference between a splitting maul and axe...?

And, for those that chainsaw, did you take a course? Or is everything on YouTube? 🙂


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 6:42 pm
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Take a day course, well worth it IMO. It's rare to have a minor chainsaw accident..,. Better value to find a "chainsawing for beginners" than try to do the official qualifications.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 7:09 pm
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Maul is wider so forces logs apart more than an axe daddy.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 7:20 pm
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howsyourdad1 - Member

Just a slight hijack, whats the difference between a splitting maul and axe...?

A splitting maul is a big blunt heavy tool for busting up really gnarled, knotted stumps or massive logs.

[img] [/img]

A splitting axe will typically be much lighter, have a narrower head with shallower cheeks and something of a sharper profile.

[img] [/img]

There are some varietes which mix and match attributes. A maul might also refer to a splitting axe with an additional hardened surface/poll for pounding wedges. Some people also call this a sledge axe. A splitting axe is maybe going to weigh about 2kg. A maul will likely be at least 3kg. This matters if you're swinging it hundreds of times.


 
Posted : 19/10/2017 7:24 pm
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